Things to Do in Split in December

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Stay in Split in December

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Split in December is cold, wet, and quiet. Temperatures sit around 13°C (56°F) during the day and drop to roughly 6°C (44°F) at night, with 157mm of rain across 11 days. The Riva waterfront, packed shoulder-to-shoulder in July, might hold a few dozen people on a December Wednesday afternoon. Ferry schedules to Hvar, Brač, and Vis shrink to bare-winter rotations. Roughly half the restaurants outside the Palace walls close from November until Easter.

The one genuine draw is Advent u Splitu. From late November through early January, the courtyards inside Diocletian's Palace, built in 293 for the Roman emperor, fill with wooden market stalls, string lights, and the warm smell of fritule frying in oil. The Peristil square hosts live music most evenings. Croatia adopted the euro in January 2023, and 1 USD currently sits around 0.85 EUR, making pricing transparent for most Western visitors.

To be fair, December has a specific appeal for the right traveler. Hotel rates typically drop 50-60% from the July peak. The city scores 8.2 out of 10 for solo-traveler safety (see the TTDI Solo-Safety Index), and the quiet winter streets of Varoš and Radunica feel like a different city from the summer version. But if your mental image of Split involves swimming at Bačvice or drinking on a rooftop bar until 3 AM, wait for June. On a typical December evening, a konoba in the Old Town that seats 30 might have 4 tables occupied.

Why visit in December

Low-season pricing across the board. Flights to Split Airport (SPU) from London, Munich, and Frankfurt reach annual-minimum fares, and accommodation in the Old Town typically runs well under half of summer rates.
The Advent market transforms the Palace courtyards into Split's winter social hub, with mulled-wine stands and Dalmatian street food stalls operating every evening through early January.
Zero queues at the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, the Temple of Jupiter, and other Palace-era sites that can have 45-minute waits in peak season.
Fresh olive oil from the November-December pressing appears at the Green Market (Pazar), sold by small producers from the surrounding Dalmatian hills.

Worth knowing

December ranks among the 3 wettest months in Split alongside November and January, and you should expect 2-3 fully rainy days per week on average.
Bura wind events cancel Jadrolinija ferry crossings to the islands for 1-2 days at a time, making day trips to Hvar or Brač unreliable without a backup plan.
The restaurants that stay open through winter tend to close kitchens by 21:00 or 22:00 on weeknights, narrowing your evening dining options considerably.
Daylight runs from roughly 7:15 to 16:30, giving fewer than 10 hours of usable light for outdoor sightseeing.

Best for

Think twice if

Weather measured 13° / 7°C 157mm rain · 11 rainy days · 74% humidity rains perceptibly ~2.4h/day · 82% of mornings dry

Crowds low

Pack Layer a waterproof shell over merino or fleece mid-layers, with a thermal base for colder bura days. Waterproof shoes with solid grip matter more here than heavy winter boots. Pack a windproof hat, scarf, and compact umbrella rated for strong gusts.

December on the Dalmatian coast tends to alternate between stretches of overcast drizzle and sharp, clear days after the bura sweeps through. Humidity sits around 74%, giving the cool air a damp, penetrating quality that feels colder than the thermometer suggests. Rain arrives in concentrated bursts rather than steady all-day grey, often clearing by late afternoon. Mornings in the stone corridors of the Palace can feel surprisingly cold, since sunlight rarely reaches the narrow passages before noon. The Adriatic turns a flat grey-green on overcast days, and the bura can push whitecaps right up against the waterfront.

Seasonal caution

The bura (bora) wind can hit Split with gusts reaching 100-130 km/h (60-80 mph) during December events. It brings clear skies but bitter cold, and can ground Adriatic ferry services and close the coastal highway near Omiš. Exposed waterfront walks become unpleasant to dangerous. Monitor the DHMZ (Croatian Meteorological and Hydrological Service) forecast before planning ferry crossings or coastal drives.

Year-round climate

Averages from the last 5 years.

Monthly climate averages for Split
Month	Avg high (°C)	Avg low (°C)	Rainfall (mm)
Jan	12	5	162
Feb	13	5	81
Mar	15	7	110
Apr	18	10	109
May	23	15	110
Jun	29	20	49
Jul	32	23	23
Aug	31	22	76
Sep	26	18	137
Oct	22	14	110
Nov	16	9	258
Dec	13	7	157

Holidays and festivals in December

Public holidays

Christmas Day(Božić)25 December 2026
St. Stephen's Day(Prvi dan po Božiću, Sveti Stjepan, Štefanje, Stipanje)26 December 2026

When is Christmas season in 2026?

27 November to 26 December 2026

Christmas season is a major cultural celebration in Split. In 2026 it runs from 27 November to 26 December 2026.

Wonderful Christmas in Split - Private Walking Tour

2 hr
Free cancellation
Private tour
Easy pace

For a full refund, cancel at least 24 hours before the scheduled departure time.

Best things to do in December

Walk through Advent u Splitu

cultural

The Christmas market fills the Palace courtyards, the Peristil, and surrounding passages with wooden stalls, food vendors, and a nightly performance stage. On a damp December evening, string lights reflect off 4th-century stone and the smell of frying dough and cinnamon fills the corridors.

December sits at the heart of the market's programming, with the most events and largest crowds of the entire Advent season.

Hike Marjan hill after a bura clears

outdoor

The 178 m forested peninsula on Split's western edge offers panoramic views across the channel to Brač, Šolta, and Čiovo. The main summit trail takes about 40 minutes from the Varoš-side trailhead. Winter strips the deciduous foliage, opening sightlines that summer greenery blocks.

Post-bura mornings in December produce the sharpest-visibility days of the year, with scrubbed air and no summer haze over the islands.

Explore Salona archaeological site

historical

The remains of the former Roman provincial capital, 5 km northeast in Solin, cover a sprawling open-air site with an amphitheater, early Christian basilicas, and city walls. The site sits among open fields with little shade, making cool weather a genuine advantage for walking the grounds.

Summer heat and crowds make the exposed, shade-free ruins uncomfortable to explore. December offers mild walking conditions and near-total solitude.

Climb the Cathedral of Saint Domnius bell tower

sightseeing

The 60 m Romanesque bell tower offers the best aerial view of the Palace rooftops, the harbor, and the Marjan peninsula. The 183-step climb up a narrow medieval staircase is a different experience in winter, with the observation platform typically empty and the low-angled light catching the stone cityscape.

Summer queues for the tower can stretch 30-45 minutes. In December, you walk straight in and likely have the top to yourself.

Day trip to Trogir's medieval old town

day trip

The UNESCO-listed island center sits 27 km west of Split, connected by Bus 37 running year-round. The Trogir Cathedral, founded in 1213, and Kamerlengo Castle, built in 1420, are both open in winter with reduced hours. The compact old town takes 3-4 hours to walk thoroughly.

Summer coach tours crowd Trogir's narrow limestone streets to gridlock. December foot traffic is minimal, and you can photograph the Romanesque portal without waiting.

Booking tipBus 37 departs from Split's main bus station roughly every 20-30 minutes. No advance booking needed.

Ring in Silvestrovo on the Riva

event

Split's free outdoor New Year's Eve celebration fills the waterfront promenade with a countdown concert, fireworks over the harbor, and several thousand locals. It is the single busiest night of Split's entire winter calendar.

December 31 only. The Riva transforms from its quiet winter state into the closest thing Split gets to summer energy.

Booking tipBook accommodation in Grad or along the waterfront by early December if you want to walk home after midnight.

Shop the morning fish market at Pazar

food

The open-air market on the Palace's eastern wall sells the overnight Adriatic catch every morning starting around 7:00. December brings peak squid (lignje) and cuttlefish (sipa) season, and the stalls fill with fresh shellfish and winter greens.

December is peak Adriatic season for squid and cuttlefish, with prices lower than summer's tourist-inflated rates. The market crowd is almost entirely local.

What to eat in December

In season: fruit

Mandarine (Neretva valley tangerines)
Croatia's tangerine crop from the Neretva Delta, roughly 120 km southeast of Split, peaks in November and December. You'll find bags of them at every market stall and corner shop in the city, still carrying their leaves.

On menus now

Pašticada
Dalmatia's signature slow-braised beef stew, cooked for hours in a prošek wine and dried-fruit sauce, served over handmade gnocchi. It appears on menus year-round, but the heavier winter weather makes this the ideal season for a dish that takes 4-5 hours to prepare properly.

What to drink

Kuhano vino
Croatian mulled wine made with local Plavac Mali red, cinnamon, cloves, and orange peel. The default warming drink at the Advent market stalls on chilly Palace evenings, typically served in small ceramic cups.

Festival food

Bakalar na bijelo
Salt cod slow-cooked in olive oil, garlic, and potato. This is the centerpiece of Dalmatian Christmas Eve (Badnjak) tables across Split. Every family has a variation, but local versions rely heavily on fresh first-press olive oil from the surrounding hills.
Fritule
Small fried dough balls flavored with rakija and lemon zest, dusted with powdered sugar. Sold hot from open-air fryers at every Advent market stall inside the Palace courtyards, they are the defining street snack of December in Split.
Rafioli
Half-moon pastry cookies filled with ground almonds and citrus zest, a traditional Dalmatian Christmas sweet. Home bakers in Split prepare batches in the weeks before December 25, and bakeries around Grad stock them into January.

Regular events in December

Advent u SplituFree

Split's annual Christmas market fills the Diocletian's Palace courtyards with food stalls, craft vendors, mulled wine stands, and a live music stage on the Peristil. The market draws regional visitors from Zagreb, Ljubljana, and across the Dalmatian coast.

Late November through early January

Sveti Nikola (St. Nicholas Day)Free

Croatian children receive small gifts and sweets on the morning of December 6. The tradition is a family affair, but shops around Grad display candy and Sveti Nikola decorations in the days leading up to it.

December 6

Bezgrješno Začeće (Feast of the Immaculate Conception)Free

A public holiday in Croatia on December 8. Most shops close, but the Advent market stays open. Churches across Split hold special services, with a notable morning mass at the Cathedral.

December 8

Hajduk Split home matches at Stadion Poljud

Hajduk Split, one of Croatia's most followed football clubs, plays Prva HNL home matches at the 34,000-capacity Stadion Poljud (built in 1979) through early December before the league's winter break. The atmosphere from the Torcida supporters' section is worth experiencing even if you have no interest in football.

Early December (before winter break, typically mid-December)

Silvestrovo (New Year's Eve) on the RivaFree

Split's main New Year's celebration features live Croatian pop and rock acts on the waterfront stage, followed by a midnight fireworks display over the harbor. Street food and drink vendors line the promenade. Attendance typically reaches several thousand.

December 31

Best places this December

Diocletian's Palace
historical site
The Advent market transforms the Palace's interior courtyards into Split's winter social hub. The Peristil, the vestibule, and the narrow cardo and decumanus passages fill with stalls and stage performances most evenings. On a damp December night, the stone walls catch string lights and the corridors carry the smell of cinnamon and fried dough.
Grad
Marjan
park
The forested peninsula on Split's western edge offers multiple trail options from 30-minute summit loops to longer ridge walks along the southern cliffs. The 13th-century hermitage chapel of Sveti Jere sits along the south-facing cliff trail, and December's bare branches reveal stone staircases and viewpoints that summer greenery conceals.
Meje
Stari Pazar (Green Market)
market
The open-air market on the Palace's eastern wall operates year-round, but December strips away the tourist browsing. The fish terrace on the lower level and the fruit-and-vegetable stalls above serve primarily locals doing their daily shopping, and you'll hear more Croatian than English.
Grad
Varoš
neighborhood
Split's oldest residential quarter climbs the lower slopes of Marjan in a tangle of narrow stone staircases and terracotta-roofed houses. December empties the lanes of tourists. Laundry lines strung between buildings, potted rosemary on windowsills, and the occasional cat colony on a sunny step give it a lived-in warmth that the polished Palace interior lacks.
Varoš
Hrvatsko Narodno Kazalište Split (HNK)
theater
Founded in 1893, Split's national theater runs its regular performance season through December, offering opera, ballet, and drama productions. The neo-Renaissance building sits on Trg Gaje Bulata, a 5-minute walk north of the Palace, and provides one of the few reliable evening cultural options in winter.
Grad
Salona (Solin)
archaeological site
The former capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia, now an open archaeological park in Solin, offers a quieter complement to the Palace itself. The Manastirine necropolis and the Tusculum research pavilion sit among olive groves, and December visitors rarely number more than a handful across the entire sprawling site.
Solin (5 km northeast of Split center)
Bačvice
beach
Split's central beach is deserted in December, which has its own meditative appeal. A handful of regulars still play picigin, the traditional Dalmatian ball game, in the ankle-deep shallows on warmer afternoons. The sandy bay and the cafes behind it take on a quieter, neighborhood character without summer crowds.
Bačvice

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Waterproof jacketRain tends to arrive in sudden heavy bursts along the Dalmatian coast. A breathable waterproof shell beats a heavy raincoat because you'll pull it on and off as conditions shift through the day. Shop
Warm mid-layers (merino or fleece)The damp coastal air makes even mild temperatures feel colder than expected. Merino wool breathes better than synthetic fleece in these conditions and handles the indoor-outdoor temperature swings. Shop
Waterproof walking shoes with gripThe Palace's stone floors and Varoš's limestone staircases become slippery in rain. Smooth soles are genuinely dangerous on wet polished stone. Shop
Windproof compact umbrellaA cheap travel umbrella will invert and break in the bura. Bring a compact model rated for high winds, or plan to buy a sturdy one at a Split hardware store on arrival. Shop
Scarf and warm hatBura wind chill can drop the perceived temperature by 5-10°C below the reading. A wool or fleece hat and a scarf that covers your ears make exposed seafront walks bearable. Shop
Thermal base layerUseful for full-day sightseeing when you're moving between heated interiors and cold outdoor ruins. A thin base layer adds warmth without bulk under your mid-layer. Shop
Small daypack with rain coverYou'll shed layers as you move between cold outdoor stretches and warm konobe interiors. A daypack carries what you strip off, and the rain cover keeps electronics dry during downpours. Shop
Portable phone chargerShorter winter daylight means more flashlight and navigation use on your phone, draining the battery faster than a summer day. The Palace's interior corridors stay dark regardless of the hour. Shop

Insider tips

Several konobe in Varoš keep winter hours but don't update their Google Maps listings or websites. Walk Šperun street in the early evening and look for handwritten menus in windows or steam rising from kitchen vents. The places that stay open for locals through winter tend to serve better, more traditional food than the tourist-facing spots on the waterfront.
The bura typically blows for 1-3 days and then breaks to crystalline, dry sunshine. Locals plan outdoor activities for the day after the wind drops, when visibility across the channel is at its sharpest and the air feels scrubbed clean. Check DHMZ.hr for the bura forecast rather than generic weather apps.
Christmas Eve (Badnjak) and Christmas Day are family-centric in Split, not commercial events. Most restaurants close by early afternoon on December 24, and many stay closed through December 26. Stock up on groceries from Pazar or a Konzum supermarket by December 23 if you're self-catering.
The Cathedral bell tower is a separate ticket from the cathedral itself. In December, the ticket office sometimes closes early when there's no demand. Aim to arrive before 14:00 to be safe.

Avoid these mistakes

Booking a day trip to Hvar without checking Jadrolinija's winter ferry schedule the day before. December sailings sometimes run only once per day, and bura cancellations are common. Verify the departure on jadrolinija.hr the evening before, not a week ahead.
Assuming everything inside the Palace is open because the building itself is always accessible. The Palace is a living structure, not a ticketed attraction. Individual shops, restaurants, and even some museum spaces inside it close seasonally, and you'll find locked doors behind open Roman gates.
Packing for 'Mediterranean weather' based on Split's latitude and coastal location. December on the Dalmatian coast is colder and damper than visitors from Sydney, Los Angeles, or even Rome typically expect. The damp coastal chill at 10°C can feel colder than a dry minus-5°C in a continental city.

Practical tips for December

Most Split museums keep winter hours from October through March, typically closing by 16:00 or 17:00, with some shutting entirely on Sundays. Confirm hours on the venue's own website rather than relying on printed guides or Google Maps, which often show summer schedules. Bus Line 37 to Trogir runs year-round, but intercity routes operate at reduced winter frequency. Book accommodation in or near Grad to minimize walking in rain between your hotel and the Advent market area.

Croatia's LGBTQ+ friendliness scores 6 out of 10 (sourced from TTDI's editorial rubric). Split is broadly safe, but public affection between same-sex couples may draw attention outside the more cosmopolitan Old Town core. Tipping 10% at sit-down restaurants is standard but not obligatory. Most shops close by 14:00 on Saturdays and stay closed Sundays, with slightly extended hours during the final pre-Christmas week.

FAQ

Is December a good time to visit Split?

December is a fair-weather month for Split, not a peak one. The Advent market inside the Palace gives the city a genuine winter draw, and rock-bottom prices make it one of the cheapest times to visit Dalmatia. But roughly half the restaurants close, the weather is cold and rainy, and the full Adriatic experience (beaches, islands, outdoor dining) is off the table. If you value quiet atmosphere and low costs over sunshine and swimming, December works. If not, aim for May through October.

What is the weather like in Split in December?

Cool, damp, and variable. You'll likely get a mix of overcast rainy stretches and sharp, clear days, especially after the bura wind passes through. The damp coastal air makes the mild temperatures feel colder than the numbers suggest, and a waterproof jacket matters more than a heavy winter coat. Snow is extremely rare at sea level in Split.

Is Split crowded in December?

Not at all. December is among the quietest months, comparable to January and February. You'll share the Palace courtyards with a handful of other visitors on most days. The Advent market brings locals and regional visitors in the evenings, but daytime attractions feel nearly empty. This is the opposite problem from the July-August peak.

Are restaurants and shops open in Split in December?

Roughly half the tourist-facing restaurants and bars close for winter, especially outside the Palace walls. The konobe that remain open tend to keep shorter hours. Supermarkets like Konzum and Studenac operate normally. The Green Market at Pazar runs daily mornings year-round. The pre-Christmas week brings slightly extended shop hours, but don't expect London or Paris levels of retail activity.

Can you swim in Split in December?

City tour: 1.5 hours, free cancellation.

via Viator

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