Stay in Split in November
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November is the wettest month on Split's calendar, and not by a small margin. The city receives nearly twice the rainfall of any neighboring month, delivered across roughly 13 rainy days as heavy Mediterranean storms sweep in from the Adriatic. The rain turns the polished limestone corridors of Diocletian's Palace into slick, reflective surfaces. The air carries the smell of wet stone and brine. Temperatures settle into the mid-teens Celsius by day and dip toward single digits at night. Not freezing, but the damp air off the water makes it feel colder than the thermometer suggests.
That said, Split doesn't shut down. The Pazar green market in Grad still opens most mornings, its stalls piled with Neretva valley mandarins and late-season pomegranates. The Croatian National Theatre, which has been running performances since 1893, stages its winter program. A handful of konobas in the Varoš neighborhood keep their doors open year-round, shifting menus toward slow-braised Dalmatian stews and newly pressed olive oil from the November harvest. You'll share these places with very few other visitors. The summer crowds that fill the Peristil are months gone.
The trade-off is real, though. November sits in a dead zone between October's last mild days and the Advent decorations that start appearing on the Riva in December. No headline festival draws visitors. The Jadrolinija ferry schedule to Brač, Hvar, and Vis drops to winter frequency. Most waterfront businesses along Bačvice are shuttered until April or May. You're experiencing a Mediterranean summer city in its quietest stretch, and that carries a grey stillness you'll either value or find dispiriting. Accommodation rates, for what it's worth, tend to reach their lowest point of the entire year.
Why visit in November
- Accommodation rates drop to their annual low. A room that costs 150 EUR per night in July might go for 40-50 EUR in November.
- Diocletian's Palace, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, and the Temple of Jupiter are nearly empty. You can photograph the Peristil without competing for angles.
- November is olive pressing season in the Dalmatian hinterland. Producers in villages above Split offer tastings of the year's first oil, still cloudy and peppery.
- The cooler air makes Marjan hill and Salona far more comfortable to walk than in the 30°C+ summer months.
- Restaurants that stay open often deliver more attentive service. November regulars tend to be locals, not tour groups.
Worth knowing
- November receives 258mm of rainfall, the highest monthly total of the year. Entire days can be lost to persistent downpours that make outdoor sightseeing impractical.
- Many restaurants, bars, and shops in Grad and along the waterfront close entirely from late October through March or April. Your dining and nightlife options shrink considerably.
- The winter ferry schedule reduces departures to the islands. Catamaran services may cancel altogether when the jugo wind kicks up seas in the channel.
- Sunset arrives around 16:30, leaving roughly 9.5 hours of daylight and cutting the afternoon sightseeing window short.
Best for
Think twice if
November averages a high of 16.3°C (61°F) and a low of 9.4°C (49°F), with 258mm of rainfall across about 13 rainy days. This makes it the wettest month of the year by a wide margin. Humidity holds around 72%. The rain tends to arrive in concentrated Mediterranean bursts rather than steady drizzle. You might enjoy 3 clear days, then face 2 days of heavy, persistent downpour. The bura wind from the northeast adds a windchill that makes evenings feel several degrees colder than the reading suggests. Daylight shrinks to roughly 9.5 hours, with sunrise near 7:00 and sunset around 16:30.
Seasonal caution
- Heavy rainfall. November's 258mm total exceeds the 200mm threshold, and individual Mediterranean storms can dump 40-60mm in a single day. Low-lying parts of the Riva waterfront occasionally pool with standing water during the worst downpours.
- Bura wind. This cold, dry northeasterly can reach gale force in the Adriatic channels, particularly in the strait between the mainland and the islands. Ferry cancellations happen without much advance notice, and the wind chill on exposed areas like the Riva can make 10°C feel closer to 3°C.
Year-round climate
Averages from the last 5 years.
| Month | Avg high (°C) | Avg low (°C) | Rainfall (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 12 | 5 | 162 |
| Feb | 13 | 5 | 81 |
| Mar | 15 | 7 | 110 |
| Apr | 18 | 10 | 109 |
| May | 23 | 15 | 110 |
| Jun | 29 | 20 | 49 |
| Jul | 32 | 23 | 23 |
| Aug | 31 | 22 | 76 |
| Sep | 26 | 18 | 137 |
| Oct | 22 | 14 | 110 |
| Nov | 16 | 9 | 258 |
| Dec | 13 | 7 | 157 |
Holidays and festivals in November
Public holidays
- All Saints' Day(Dan svih svetih)1 November 2026
- Remembrance Day(Dan sjećanja na žrtve Domovinskog rata)18 November 2026
When is Christmas season in 2026?
27 November to 26 December 2026
Christmas season is a major cultural celebration in Split. In 2026 it runs from 27 November to 26 December 2026.
Best things to do in November
Walk Diocletian's Palace without the summer crowds
sightseeingThe palace, built starting in 293 AD for the Roman emperor, receives thousands of visitors per hour in July and August. In November, you might have entire corridors to yourself. The Peristil, the underground Podrumi halls, and the narrow cardo and decumanus streets all benefit from the emptiness. The wet limestone takes on a deep, reflective quality in the rain that photography in dry summer light never captures.
Summer crowds clear out entirely. November is one of the quietest months in the palace precinct, and the rain gives the stone a photogenic sheen.Booking tipNo booking needed. Entry to the palace grounds is free. The Podrumi underground halls charge a small admission fee.
Hike Marjan hill
outdoorsThe 178-metre forested peninsula on Split's western edge has a network of trails through Aleppo pine and Mediterranean scrub. Viewpoints along the southern ridge look out over the Adriatic and the islands. The air smells of pine resin and damp earth after rain. Several small chapels, including Sv. Jere from the 15th century, sit along the paths.
Summer temperatures above 30°C make midday hiking on Marjan punishing. November's 16°C highs and cool shade under the pines make the climb comfortable at any hour.Attend a performance at the Croatian National Theatre (HNK Split)
cultureThe theatre in the Manuš neighborhood stages opera, ballet, and drama through its winter season. The building itself, dating to 1893, has an ornate interior worth seeing even if the performance isn't in a language you speak. November audiences are local and small, and the atmosphere feels intimate.
The winter season is in full swing by November. Rainy evenings with no outdoor alternatives make a theatre night practical as well as cultural.Booking tipTickets are available online through the HNK Split website. November shows rarely sell out, but weekend performances fill faster.
Day trip to the ruins of Salona
sightseeingThe remains of the ancient Roman capital of Dalmatia sit about 5km northeast of Split near modern Solin. The amphitheatre, early Christian basilicas, and city walls spread across a large open site. In November, you can walk the ruins for an hour without seeing another visitor. The low autumn light catches the stone in ways the flat summer sun does not.
Salona is an exposed, shadeless site. In summer, the heat makes a thorough visit exhausting. November's mild temperatures let you take your time across the full grounds.Booking tipTake Promet bus line 1 from Sukoišanska street toward Solin. The site has a small admission fee.
Olive oil tasting in the hinterland
food and drinkSmall producers in the villages above Split, particularly around Žrnovnica and Kaštel Stari, press their harvest through November. Some welcome visitors during working hours. You can taste the difference between early-harvest oil, which is greener and more pungent, and later pressings that turn milder. The groves themselves sit on terraced hillsides with views toward the sea.
November is the heart of Dalmatia's olive pressing season. The oil is at its freshest and most flavourful straight from the press. By January, the season is over.Booking tipAsk your accommodation host to connect you with a local producer. Organized tastings are less common in November than during summer tourism season.
Celebrate Martinje (St. Martin's Day) with new wine
food and drinkNovember 11 marks Martinje, the traditional blessing of the new wine. The custom holds that grape must officially becomes wine on St. Martin's feast day. Konobas and wine bars in Split mark the occasion with tastings of the year's young wines, often paired with roasted chestnuts. The tradition is quieter in Split than in the continental wine regions around Zagreb, but it still has a festive warmth.
Martinje falls on November 11 every year. It is specifically and only a November tradition tied to the wine harvest cycle.Explore the Podrumi (underground halls) on a rainy day
sightseeingThe substructure beneath Diocletian's Palace mirrors the layout of the imperial apartments above. The vaulted stone rooms maintain a constant cool temperature and stay dry regardless of the weather outside. The acoustics amplify the sound of your footsteps in an empty November visit. Occasional exhibitions use the space, though the architecture alone carries the visit.
November's frequent rain makes the underground halls a practical refuge. With summer crowds absent, the atmospheric weight of the 1,700-year-old vaults hits harder.Booking tipOpen daily even in winter, though hours may be shorter (check locally for current schedule). Admission is modest.
What to eat in November
In season: fruit
Neretva mandarins (mandarine)
Peak harvest from the Neretva Delta arrives in November. The small, sweet, thin-skinned citrus fills market stalls across Dalmatia. You'll smell them before you see them at the Pazar.
On menus now
Pašticada
Dalmatia's signature beef stew, braised for hours in wine, prunes, and root vegetables. The konobas that stay open in winter feature it prominently. The meat should pull apart with a fork, served over gnocchi.
Gregada
A fish stew from the islands of Hvar and Vis. White fish layered with potatoes, garlic, parsley, and white wine, then slow-simmered. It's a cold-weather dish that rarely appears on summer menus. November konobas serve it when the catch allows.
Street food peaks
Fritule
Small fried dough balls dusted with powdered sugar, sometimes laced with raisins or citrus zest. They start appearing at bakeries and street stalls around Svi Sveti (November 1) and continue through Carnival in February. Warm and slightly crisp outside, soft inside.
In markets
Mlado ulje (new olive oil)
November is pressing season. The year's first olive oil appears unfiltered, still cloudy green, with a peppery bite that fades as it settles. Producers in Žrnovnica and the Kaštela villages sell it straight from the press.
Regular events in November
Svi Sveti (All Saints' Day)Free
A national public holiday on November 1. Families visit cemeteries to light candles and lay flowers. The Lovrinac and Sustjepan cemeteries in Split glow with candlelight after dark. Most shops and some restaurants close for the day.
November 1Martinje (St. Martin's Day)
The traditional feast marking the moment when grape must becomes wine. Konobas and wine bars hold tastings of new vintages, often accompanied by roasted chestnuts. A nationwide custom observed more casually in Dalmatia than in the continental regions.
November 11Dan Sjećanja na Žrtve Domovinskog Rata (Remembrance Day)Free
National day of remembrance for victims of the Croatian Homeland War, centered on the fall of Vukovar in 1991. Flags fly at half-mast. Ceremonies take place at memorials. A solemn day, not a festive one, but important context for understanding the city's modern history.
November 18Early Advent preparations on the RivaFree
The first signs of Advent u Splitu typically appear in the final days of November. Light installations go up along the Riva waterfront promenade, and the earliest stalls of the Christmas market may open before December 1, depending on the year.
Late November (varies, usually last week)Best places this November
Diocletian's Palace and the Peristil
historical siteThe Roman palace, begun in 293 AD, forms the core of Split's old town. In November, the open-air Peristil courtyard has none of the summer crowd noise or restaurant touts. The granite columns and the Egyptian sphinx at the entrance to the former imperial quarters stand in near-silence. The wet stone underfoot requires careful footing but looks extraordinary.
GradCathedral of Saint Domnius (Katedrala Sv. Duje)
religious siteOriginally built as the mausoleum of Emperor Diocletian, it was converted into a cathedral in the 7th century. The Romanesque bell tower offers views over the red rooftops of Grad, though the climb on wet November days requires steady hands on the stone stairs. The octagonal interior feels more intimate without the summer queues.
GradMarjan
natureThe pine-covered hill on Split's western tip is the city's green lung. November trails are quiet, and the cooler air carries the scent of resin and damp earth. The southern ridge path leads to viewpoints over the harbour and the island of Čiovo. Most of the vegetation is evergreen, so Marjan stays lush through the month.
MejeVaroš neighbourhood
neighborhoodThe old fishermen's quarter west of the palace walls climbs the lower slopes of Marjan in a tangle of narrow stone streets and low houses. November thins the foot traffic to almost nothing. The konobas here tend to be year-round operations serving neighbourhood regulars. The stone steps are worn smooth and can be slippery in rain.
VarošPazar (Green Market)
marketThe open-air market on the eastern side of the palace walls operates most mornings, rain or shine. November brings Neretva mandarins, pomegranates, persimmons, and late-harvest figs. Vendors are local farmers from the surrounding hills and the Neretva valley. The stalls thin out compared to summer, but what remains is seasonal and direct from the grower.
GradTemple of Jupiter (Jupiterov hram)
historical siteThe small Roman temple within the palace precinct, originally dedicated to Jupiter and later converted into a baptistery for the cathedral. The barrel-vaulted ceiling and the headless sphinx at the entrance are visible in a few minutes, but the detail rewards a slow look that summer crowds don't allow.
GradGalerija Meštrović
museumThe former villa of sculptor Ivan Meštrović, set in gardens above the sea on the road toward Marjan. The collection spans his career in bronze, stone, and wood. November eliminates the summer queue entirely. The gallery's large windows frame the grey November Adriatic in a way that adds to the contemplative mood of the sculpture.
MejeRadunica neighbourhood
neighborhoodA residential quarter north of the palace, less visited than Varoš and largely untouched by tourism infrastructure. Stone houses line narrow streets that open suddenly onto small squares. In November, laundry still hangs between buildings and cats sit on every warm step. Walking here feels like seeing the city's domestic life rather than its tourist face.
Radunica
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Insider tips
The konobas in the Varoš quarter stay open year-round while most waterfront restaurants on the Riva close after October. Varoš is where locals eat in winter. The food is better and the prices are lower than anything on the tourist strip.
When the bura blows, the north-facing Riva waterfront catches the full brunt. Walk instead on the south-facing paths along Marjan, where the hill blocks the wind. The temperature difference on a strong bura day can feel like 5°C.
The Jadrolinija winter ferry timetable shifts in late October. If you want a day trip to an island, check the schedule the day before. November departures to Hvar drop from 4 or 5 daily in summer to 1 or 2, and the catamaran cancels in heavy seas.
November is the quietest month at the Pazar market, which means the vendors have time to talk. If you ask about the mandarins, they'll likely tell you exactly which part of the Neretva valley they came from. The prices are also lower than the summer tourist markup.
Split's tap water is excellent. It comes from the Jadro river spring and tastes clean. No need to buy bottled water, even in restaurants. Many locals find it odd when tourists order bottled.
Avoid these mistakes
- Planning a beach day at Bačvice. The water temperature drops to about 18°C (64°F) in November, the beach bars are shuttered, and the pebbly shore sits empty. The beach is genuinely pleasant from June through September. In November, it's a windswept stretch of gravel.
- Booking a multi-island itinerary. Summer visitors routinely ferry-hop between Brač, Hvar, and Vis in a single week. In November, the winter schedule makes this impractical. One calm-weather day trip is realistic. Three or four are a gamble on cancelled sailings.
- Packing only a light jacket and trainers. November nights that hover near 9°C with bura windchill feel more like 3-4°C. The limestone streets in Grad are treacherous in rain without proper grip. Layered clothing and waterproof shoes are not optional.
- Assuming summer restaurant hours. Many places in the old town operate on reduced winter hours, closing by 20:00. Some close entirely from November through March. Check hours online or by phone before walking 20 minutes across town for dinner.
Practical tips for November
Most museums and attractions in Split switch to winter hours from November 1, typically opening an hour later and closing by 16:00 or 17:00. Croatia adopted the euro in January 2023, so travellers from other eurozone countries need no currency exchange. 1 USD converts to approximately 0.85 EUR at current rates. The Riva waterfront promenade stays accessible, but most of its seasonal cafes won't return until April. Public Promet bus routes within Split run on a reduced winter timetable, though the main lines to Trogir, Klis, and Solin continue operating. Book accommodation in Varoš or within the palace walls to keep most sites within walking distance, since waiting for infrequent buses in the rain gets old quickly. Sunset arrives around 16:30, cutting the outdoor sightseeing window well short of summer. If you're planning a day trip to Trogir (where the 1213 cathedral and the 1420 Kamerlengo Castle are both worth seeing) or to Salona, start by 9:00 to make the most of the light. Split Airport (SPU) operates year-round, though carriers like Ryanair and easyJet may suspend some routes for winter. Verify direct flight availability early.
FAQ
Is November a good time to visit Split?
November is a fair month for Split, honestly one of the weaker periods on the calendar. The city receives its heaviest rainfall of the year, many seasonal businesses close for winter, and ferry service to the islands drops to a skeleton schedule. The trade-off is genuine solitude at the major historical sites and the lowest accommodation prices you'll find in any month. If you're drawn to Roman architecture, comfortable in cool and wet weather, and don't need beaches or nightlife, November can work well. If sunshine and outdoor activities are priorities, May through September will serve you much better.
What is the weather like in Split in November?
Expect daytime highs near 16°C (61°F) and nighttime lows around 9°C (49°F). Humidity sits around 72%. The defining feature is rain. November is Split's wettest month, with heavy storms that can last a full day. Between storms, you'll get stretches of overcast calm and occasionally a clear, crisp afternoon. The bura wind adds a sharp chill, particularly along the waterfront and in the open corridors of the old town. Pack proper rain gear and warm layers.
Is Split crowded in November?
No. November is one of the quietest months of the year. The cruise ships that dominate the harbour in summer are gone, and the vast majority of tourists visit between May and October. You'll share Diocletian's Palace with a handful of visitors on most days. The downside of that emptiness is that many restaurants, bars, and shops close for the off-season, particularly along the waterfront and in the tourist-oriented parts of Grad.
Are the islands accessible from Split in November?
Yes, but with significant limitations. Jadrolinija operates a reduced winter ferry schedule from late October. Departures to popular islands like Hvar and Brač drop to 1-2 per day. The high-speed catamaran service, which runs frequently in summer, may cancel in rough seas caused by the jugo or bura winds. A single calm-day island trip is feasible with planning. Multi-island itineraries are unreliable in November.
What should I eat in Split in November?
November is the start of Dalmatia's comfort-food season. Look for pašticada, the signature beef stew braised with wine and dried plums, at year-round konobas in Varoš. Freshly pressed olive oil from the November harvest appears at markets and on restaurant tables. The Pazar market sells Neretva Delta mandarins at their peak sweetness. Fritule, small fried dough balls dusted with sugar, show up at bakeries and street vendors starting around All Saints' Day on November 1.
Things to Do in Split in November
Free cancellation From Split: Krka Waterfalls, Food & Wine Tasting Tour
Day trip: 10 hours, free cancellation.
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Free cancellation Blue Cave, Mamma Mia and Hvar, 5 Islands Speed boat Small group
Day trip: free cancellation.
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Free cancellation Blue Cave and Hvar Tour - 5 Islands Tour from Split and Trogir
Day trip: free cancellation.
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Free cancellation From Split: Krka Waterfalls Tour, Boat Cruise & Swimming
Outdoor experience: 10 hours, free cancellation.
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Free cancellation From Split: Plitvice Lakes National Park Guided Tour
Day trip: 11 hours, free cancellation.
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Free cancellation Blue Cave, Hvar & 5 Islands Speedboat Adventure From Split
Day trip: 10 hours, free cancellation.
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