December in Cusco is wet. Rain falls on roughly 26 of the month's 31 days, and it typically arrives as afternoon downpours that turn the colonial cobblestones of the Centro Histórico slippery and send everyone under the stone arcades of Plaza de Armas. Mornings tend to start clear and brisk at Cusco's highland altitude, cool enough for a fleece but warming quickly once the sun clears the ridgeline east of San Cristóbal. By 14:00 or so, it comes down hard.
That said, December carries a cultural card the dry-season months cannot play. Santuranticuy, Cusco's Christmas Eve artisan market, fills Plaza de Armas with hundreds of vendors selling hand-carved Nativity figures and retablos. The weeks leading up bring processions through the streets of San Blas and Santiago, and Cusco Cathedral hosts Christmas services that draw thousands of Cusqueños from across the region. Peruvian domestic tourists arrive in force for the holidays, which means prices climb and the city feels full, but the international backpacker crowds of June and July are largely absent.
The trade-off is direct. You're paying holiday-inflated rates for the wettest stretch of the year. If your schedule allows May through September, those months deliver the same archaeological sites under clear skies at lower prices. But if December is your window, the Andean Christmas traditions and thinner foreign crowds offer a version of Cusco that dry-season visitors never encounter. The first half of the month tends to be less crowded and slightly cheaper than the holiday window that begins around December 20.
Why visit in December
- Santuranticuy on Christmas Eve is one of the largest and oldest Nativity artisan markets in South America, with handmade Niño Manuelito figures, retablos, and ceramics you will not find at other times of year.
- International tourist numbers drop significantly compared to the June through August dry season, which means shorter lines at Saqsaywaman and Coricancha and more room to negotiate at artisan workshops in San Blas.
- Morning weather before the afternoon rains is often clear and warm, with strong highland sun that makes for dramatic photography of stone ruins against building cumulus clouds.
- Christmas processions and services at colonial-era churches give access to Andean Catholic traditions that are largely invisible to dry-season visitors.
Worth knowing
- Rain across 26 days of the month limits reliable outdoor time to mornings, making multi-day treks like the Inca Trail risky and Rainbow Mountain nearly inadvisable.
- Hotel and flight prices from Lima climb well above the annual average for the Christmas and New Year weeks, driven by domestic Peruvian holiday travel.
- Afternoon cloud cover and rain reduce visibility for the mountain panoramas that make the viewpoint above San Cristóbal and the Saqsaywaman overlook dramatic in dry months.
- Some tour operators reduce their trek schedules or cancel departures in December due to trail conditions, and the Inca Trail itself can be muddy and slippery underfoot.
Best for
Think twice if
Full wet season at altitude. Mornings typically dawn clear and cool, with bright equatorial sun that warms quickly but deceives with strong UV. Clouds build through late morning, and afternoon downpours arrive between 14:00 and 16:00 on most days, sometimes with thunder. The rain tends to clear by early evening, leaving damp, chilly nights. Humidity sits at around 75%. The air carries a mineral, wet-earth smell after each storm. Temperatures stay mild by Andean standards and remain steady through the month, with little variation from week to week.
Seasonal caution
- Altitude sickness is a serious risk at 3,400m (11,150 ft). Symptoms typically appear within 6 to 12 hours of arrival and can include headache, nausea, and shortness of breath. Acclimatize for at least 24 to 48 hours before any physical exertion, and consult a doctor about acetazolamide before traveling.
- UV radiation at this elevation is intense even on overcast December days. The UV index regularly reaches 11 or higher in the Cusco region, well into the extreme category. Sunburn can happen in under 15 minutes of unprotected exposure.
- Afternoon thunderstorms occasionally produce hail, especially in late December. The stones are usually small but can sting exposed skin and make walking on cobblestones treacherous for several minutes at a time.
Year-round climate
Averages from the last 5 years.
| Month | Avg high (°C) | Avg low (°C) | Rainfall (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 17 | 8 | 226 |
| Feb | 17 | 8 | 185 |
| Mar | 16 | 8 | 180 |
| Apr | 17 | 7 | 74 |
| May | 17 | 6 | 35 |
| Jun | 18 | 5 | 5 |
| Jul | 19 | 5 | 7 |
| Aug | 19 | 5 | 20 |
| Sep | 19 | 6 | 41 |
| Oct | 19 | 7 | 92 |
| Nov | 19 | 8 | 169 |
| Dec | 18 | 8 | 180 |
Headline events
Santuranticuy
December 24 (all day, vendors begin setting up before dawn)
Cusco's Christmas Eve artisan market fills Plaza de Armas with hundreds of vendors selling hand-carved Nativity figures (Niño Manuelito), retablos, ceramics, and traditional Andean Christmas ornaments. One of the oldest and largest markets of its kind in South America, dating to the colonial era. The best handmade pieces tend to sell during the morning hours, well before the evening tourist crowds arrive.
Best things to do in December
Santuranticuy market browsing at Plaza de Armas
culturalBrowse hundreds of artisan stalls selling hand-carved Nativity figures, retablos, ceramic toritos de Pucará, and traditional Andean Christmas decorations. The market stretches across the entire plaza and spills into surrounding streets. The concentration of Ayacucho-school carving in one place is hard to find at any other time of year.
This market happens only on December 24 and is the defining cultural event of Cusco's December calendar.Booking tipNo booking needed. Arrive before 09:00 for the widest selection of one-of-a-kind artisan pieces.
Christmas Mass at Cusco Cathedral
culturalAttend the Misa del Gallo (Midnight Mass) or morning Christmas services inside the cathedral on Plaza de Armas, founded in 1559. The interior fills with the sound of Quechua-language hymns and the smell of copal incense, lit by hundreds of candles along the nave.
The Christmas services are among the most significant liturgical events in Cusco's calendar, drawing thousands of Cusqueños and featuring Andean musical elements absent from ordinary Masses.Booking tipArrive at least 90 minutes early for Midnight Mass to find a seat inside. Standing room fills quickly after that.
Morning visit to Saqsaywaman
sightseeingThe Inca fortress above the city, with its massive zigzag walls of precisely fitted stone, sits above the rooftops. December mornings often deliver clear skies and dramatic cumulus formations rolling in from the east, which frame the stonework before the afternoon rain arrives.
Fewer international tourists than dry-season months means you might have sections of the walls nearly to yourself in the early hours. The building clouds behind the stone create compositions dry-season visitors rarely see.Booking tipThe Boleto Turístico (around 130 soles, roughly 38 USD) covers entry. Buy it at the COSITUC office on Avenida El Sol rather than at the site gate to skip the queue.
Chocolate-making workshop on Calle Plateros
food and drinkCusco sits near the Quillabamba cacao-growing valley, and several chocolaterías in the Centro Histórico offer 2 to 3 hour workshops where you roast, grind, and temper beans into bars. The warm, bitter aroma of roasting cacao fills the small workshop spaces and clings to your clothes after.
December's reliable afternoon rains make this an ideal activity from about 14:00 to 17:00, when outdoor sites are getting drenched. Some workshops add Christmas-themed molds and holiday flavor combinations for the season.Booking tipBook at least 2 to 3 days ahead during December. Holiday visitors fill afternoon slots quickly.
Tipón archaeological site in the wet season
sightseeingThis Inca site roughly 25 km southeast of Cusco features terraced gardens and a sophisticated water-channel system. The stone channels, fountains, and cascading aqueducts still function after more than 600 years.
The wet season fills Tipón's water channels to their fullest flow. In dry months several of the cascades slow to trickles. December is when the hydraulic engineering is most audible and visually dramatic.Booking tipTake a colectivo (shared van, about 5 soles) from Avenida de la Cultura. The site is covered by the Boleto Turístico.
Seasonal cooking class for Christmas dishes
food and drinkCulinary schools in the Centro Histórico and San Blas offer December-specific classes covering tamales cusqueños, lechón preparation, and ponche navideño. Most begin with a guided ingredient run through Mercado de San Pedro, where the holiday-specific dried fruits, chili pastes, and Quillabamba chocolate are at their most available.
December is the only month when these particular Christmas recipes are taught. The market ingredient selection for these dishes peaks in the final 2 weeks before Christmas.Booking tipBook 1 to 2 weeks ahead for classes during the week of December 20 through 26.
Day trip to the Sacred Valley
day tripOllantaytambo (2,792m) and Pisac (2,972m) sit several hundred meters lower than Cusco, with slightly warmer temperatures and sometimes less intense afternoon rain. The Pisac market on Sundays and the terraces of Ollantaytambo are both reachable by colectivo from Calle Pavitos.
Dropping in elevation means marginally better weather odds than staying in the city. The green, rain-fed hillsides contrast sharply with their dry-season brown, and both sites see far fewer visitors in December than in July or August.Booking tipColectivos leave from Calle Pavitos when full, no advance booking needed. Budget about 10 to 15 soles per person each way.
What to eat in December
In season: fruit
Tuna (prickly pear)
The cactus fruit comes into season across the Cusco region in December. Street vendors in the San Pedro and Wanchaq neighborhoods sell them peeled for about 1 sol each. The flesh ranges from green to deep magenta, with a mild sweetness that works well in fresh juices.
On menus now
Lechón cusqueño
Cusco's signature Christmas roast. Whole suckling pig slow-cooked in a wood-fired oven with ají panca, cumin, and huacatay herbs. Families order days in advance from neighborhood picanterías, and the smell of roasting pork drifts through San Pedro and Santiago on Christmas Eve morning.
What to drink
Ponche navideño
A warm holiday punch made with dried fruits, cinnamon, cloves, and aguardiente, sold at street stalls around the main plaza and at Mercado de San Pedro through December. Each vendor's recipe differs slightly. On cold evenings the spiced steam rising from the pots is its own kind of advertisement.
Festival food
Tamales cusqueños
Corn-husk-wrapped tamales filled with seasoned pork or chicken, olives, and hard-boiled egg. December is the peak month for tamale preparation across the Andes, with families making batches of 50 or more for Christmas gatherings. The Cusco style tends to run spicier than Lima's version, with more ají.
Panetón con chocolate caliente
Peru consumes more panettone per capita than nearly any other country, and December is the month. Cusco's version pairs Italian-style sweet bread with thick hot chocolate made from Quillabamba-valley cacao, sold at chocolaterías along Calle Plateros and in San Blas. The chocolate is grainy, dense, and nothing like the powdered packets.
Regular events in December
Chocolatadas comunitariasFree
Community hot-chocolate gatherings organized by neighborhood associations, churches, and businesses across Cusco through December. Free cups of thick hot chocolate and panetón are distributed, especially to children in neighborhoods like Santiago and San Sebastián. Visitors are usually welcome.
Throughout December, especially weekends and December 20-24Novena del Niño ManuelitoFree
A nine-day devotional cycle leading to Christmas, held at churches including the Church of the Society of Jesus on Plaza de Armas, completed in 1668. Each night features different musical groups performing villancicos with Andean instruments like charangos and quenas.
December 16-24New Year's Eve at Plaza de ArmasFree
The main square fills with thousands for the midnight countdown on December 31. Fireworks launch from the hillsides around the city. The tradition of wearing yellow underwear for luck and running around the plaza with a suitcase (for travel in the new year) is widely practiced by Cusqueños.
December 31Nacimientos (Nativity scene displays)Free
Elaborate Nativity-scene competitions take place across Cusco's churches and public buildings through December, with entries ranging from miniature Andean village tableaux to life-size installations. The regional government building on Plaza de Armas typically hosts one of the largest.
December 1-31Best places this December
Plaza de Armas
squareThe heart of colonial Cusco is at its most theatrical in December. Christmas lighting decorates the arcades, Santuranticuy fills the square on the 24th, and the cathedral facade glows under illumination at night. The covered arcades on two sides provide shelter during afternoon showers while keeping you in the center of the December action.
Centro HistóricoMercado de San Pedro
marketCusco's central market is a refuge on rainy December afternoons. The juice vendors, soup stalls, and fresh-bread sellers are all under cover. A bowl of caldo de gallina (hen soup, around 8 to 12 soles) warms you up after a wet morning of sightseeing. The market also stocks holiday-specific ingredients for ponche and lechón.
San PedroCoricancha (Qorikancha)
archaeological siteThe Inca sun temple, with foundations dating to around 1201, sits beneath the colonial Convento de Santo Domingo. Much of the interior is covered, making it one of the most rain-resilient major sites in the city. The garden courtyard grows green and lush in December, which likely reflects something closer to its original planted state than the dry-season version.
Centro HistóricoBarrio de San Blas
neighborhoodThe artisan quarter above Plaza de Armas is at its most active in the weeks before Santuranticuy, when workshops are in full production. Steep, narrow streets lined with blue-painted doors and terracotta-roofed studios. December's rain-slicked cobblestones and the scent of damp eucalyptus from the trees above give the neighborhood a feel the dry season does not replicate.
San BlasMirador de San Cristóbal
viewpointThe viewpoint beside the San Cristóbal church offers a panoramic sweep over Cusco's terracotta rooftops and the green December hillsides beyond. Go early for the clearest skies. By late morning, clouds typically begin forming over the eastern ridgeline, and by mid-afternoon the view is usually closed in.
San CristóbalIglesia de la Compañía de Jesús
churchThe Jesuit church on Plaza de Armas hosts nightly Novena services in the lead-up to Christmas. The ornate gilded altarpiece, one of the finest examples of Andean Baroque, is particularly striking under candlelight during the December evening devotionals.
Centro Histórico
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Insider tips
The best artisan pieces at Santuranticuy sell in the first 2 to 3 hours after vendors set up on December 24 morning, well before most visitors arrive in the afternoon. The retablo carvers from Ayacucho typically position themselves on the cathedral side of the plaza.
December's afternoon rain follows a fairly reliable clock. Clouds build between 12:00 and 13:00, rain arrives between 14:00 and 16:00, and skies often clear by 17:30. Schedule all outdoor sites for before noon and save covered activities like museums, markets, and chocolate workshops for the wet hours.
The juice vendors at Mercado de San Pedro blend seasonal tuna (prickly pear) into fresh juices for about 3 to 5 soles. The fruit is sweeter and far less available outside the December-through-February window. Ask for jugo de tuna.
Solo travelers should note that Cusco scores 6.2/10 for solo-traveler safety (see /research/solo-safety/). Stick to lit streets after dark, particularly around the San Pedro market area and the streets descending from San Cristóbal. December nightfall arrives around 18:30, which shortens the comfortable walking window.
Avoid these mistakes
- Booking a full-day trek to Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca, 5,200m) without checking the forecast first. December rain at that elevation means near-freezing temperatures, zero visibility, and real hypothermia risk. Confirm conditions with your operator the morning of departure, and be willing to cancel.
- Arriving in Cusco from sea-level Lima and immediately walking uphill to San Blas or the ruins on the same day. Most people need at least 24 to 48 hours of acclimatization before exerting themselves at altitude. Give yourself a full first day of rest near Plaza de Armas before climbing steep streets or visiting elevated sites.
- Packing only for warm weather because Peru is in the southern hemisphere's summer. Cusco's elevation keeps nighttime temperatures in the high single digits Celsius. A traveler in shorts and a t-shirt at 19:00 in December is cold, wet, and easy to spot.
- Choosing a hotel in Wanchaq or along Avenida de la Cultura because the rate looks good. The savings evaporate when you are walking 25 minutes uphill to the Centro Histórico in the afternoon rain. In December especially, proximity to Plaza de Armas is worth the premium.
Practical tips for December
Book flights from Lima and hotel rooms for December 20 through January 3 at least 6 to 8 weeks ahead. Domestic Peruvian travel peaks during this window, and last-minute availability is thin. Many restaurants close entirely on December 25 and January 1, so plan meals around your hotel or stock up at the market the day before. The Boleto Turístico covers 16 sites including Saqsaywaman, Tipón, and several Sacred Valley locations. It is valid for 10 days and remains the most cost-effective way to access the major archaeological sites. The COSITUC office on Avenida El Sol sells them with less hassle than the site gates. At the current exchange rate near 3.38 PEN per 1 USD, the ticket runs about 38 USD. Cusco has a family-friendliness score of 5.2/10 (see /research/family-friendliness/), largely because steep terrain, altitude, and wet December cobblestones are hard on small children and strollers. For LGBTQ+ travelers, the city scores 3.5/10 (sourced from TTDI's editorial rubric), and public displays of affection between same-sex couples still draw stares outside the most tourist-facing establishments in the Centro Histórico. December evenings get dark by about 18:30, and nighttime temperatures make a warm layer essential for any plans after sunset.
FAQ
Is December a good time to visit Cusco?
It is a fair choice, not ideal. December sits in the full wet season, with rain on most days, but mornings are typically clear and the Santuranticuy Christmas Eve market is a genuinely rare cultural experience you will not find in the dry months. If your schedule allows travel between May and September, those months deliver better weather and lower prices. If December is your only option, it is workable with adjusted planning that concentrates outdoor time before noon.
What is the weather like in Cusco in December?
Mild temperatures but frequent rain. Daytime highs stay comfortable in a light layer, though nights cool down enough to need a jacket and fleece. The real factor is precipitation, which falls on the large majority of December days, nearly always in the afternoon. Mornings are usually clear with strong sun at altitude, so sunscreen is not optional even under partial cloud. See the weather section for the exact temperature and rainfall figures.
Is Cusco crowded in December?
Moderately to heavily, depending on which week. International tourists are thinner than during the June through August dry-season peak, but Peruvian domestic tourists arrive in large numbers for the Christmas and New Year holidays, especially from December 20 onward. Plaza de Armas fills up for Santuranticuy and New Year's Eve. The first two weeks of December tend to be noticeably quieter.
Can I hike the Inca Trail in December?
Technically yes. The trail is open in December (it closes only in February for maintenance), but expect muddy paths, reduced visibility at higher passes, and genuinely cold conditions when rain hits above 4,000m. Some operators reduce departures or cancel if conditions deteriorate. If trekking is your main reason for visiting, May through September is significantly better. Shorter day hikes around the city, like the walk up to Saqsaywaman or out to Tambomachay, are manageable if you go in the morning.
How much spending money do I need per day in Cusco in December?
Budget travelers can manage on roughly 120 to 180 soles (about 35 to 53 USD) per day outside the holiday weeks, covering a hostel bed, market meals, and local transport. Mid-range travelers should plan for 300 to 500 soles (roughly 89 to 148 USD) for a private hotel room, restaurant meals, and site entries. During the Christmas and New Year window from December 20 through January 3, add 30 to 50 percent to accommodation costs.
Things to Do in Cusco in December
Inca Trail 4-Day Trek to Machu Picchu – Return by Vistadome Train
Outdoor experience — 4 days.
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Free cancellation Sacred Valley Full Day Tour
Day trip — 10 hours, free cancellation.
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4-Day Inca Trail Trek to Machu Picchu & Panoramic Train
Outdoor experience — 4 days.
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Classic 5-Day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu: Small Group Hike
Outdoor experience — 5 days.
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Short 2-Day Inca Trail Hike to Machu Picchu via the Sun Gate
Outdoor experience — 2 days.
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4-Day Short Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu with Sky Camp Stay
Outdoor experience — 4 days.
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