What's the must-see thing in Santiago?

The building, the old Real Aduana customs house, keeps its interior cool even when January pushes 32°C on the sidewalks of Paseo Ahumada. A reliable midday stop when the pavement radiates heat through your shoes. The Chinchorro mummies upstairs are the oldest known deliberate mummification on earth, predating Egyptian practice by roughly 2,000 years. Downstairs in the textile hall, which tends to be the quietest room, you might find yourself alone with a 1,500-year-old Paracas weaving whose dyes still hold red and ochre tones that look almost wet. A faint cedar smell drifts from the display cases between galleries. Admission runs around 7,000 CLP, about $7.65 at the current rate of 913 CLP to the dollar. The gift shop near the exit sells Mapuche silver reproductions at a fraction of Barrio Lastarria's antique-market prices.

Santa Lucía Hill is a 15-minute walk south from the museum. From the Terraza Caupolicán near the summit, about 70 metres above street level, the Andes fill the eastern horizon with snow that persists well into October, while Santiago's grid drops away to the west. The climb takes 10 to 12 minutes on stone stairs that get slippery when it rains. Worth noting, the lower paths through Jardín Japonés feel noticeably cooler and damper than the exposed summit. In late August the air up top carries a dry mineral scent off the stone walls, mixed with eucalyptus from the planted slopes. Go before 10am if you want photographs without haze. Santiago's winter smog tends to lift later in the morning, and by noon on still days the cordillera disappears behind a grey-brown band.

The Museum of Memory and Human Rights, opened in 2010, sits on Matucana 501 in Barrio Yungay, about 3 km west of the centro. It covers the 1973-1990 military dictatorship through original documentary evidence. Arrest warrants from the DINA behind glass. A wall of photographs of the disappeared, two storeys of faces. Televised speeches from La Moneda playing on loop. The English audio guide costs an additional 2,000 CLP and is worth the money for the survivor testimony recordings. The building, a copper-toned rectangle raised on concrete stilts, lets wind from Parque Quinta Normal move through the open ground floor. Admission is free. Plan at least 90 minutes for both floors. Do not attempt this on your first morning in Santiago if you are still jet-lagged. Save it for day two, after you have walked the centro.

If you have one full day, start at the Pre-Columbian museum at 10am, walk to the summit of Santa Lucía by 11:30, and take Metro Línea 1 from Santa Lucía station to Quinta Normal (800 CLP single fare) to reach the Museum of Memory after lunch. That sequence moves you west through Santiago in a clean line. The National Museum of Fine Arts, founded in 1880 and set inside Parque Forestal, falls between the first two stops if you want a fourth site. Mind you, the Metro gets packed between 7:30 and 9:00am, so time your first move after the morning rush. Santiago's solo-traveler safety scores 5.8/10 (see the TTDI Solo-Safety Index), which means standard city awareness applies. Keep your phone in a front pocket on the Línea 1 train, and stay out of Barrio Estación Central after dark.