Is Chicago LGBTQ-friendly?

Chicago legalized same-sex marriage through Illinois state law on June 1, 2014. The city didn't wait for the Supreme Court. Northalsted, the stretch of North Halsted Street between Belmont and Addison in Lakeview, became one of the first officially recognized gay villages in the US in 1997. The rainbow pylons still mark the corners. On a warm Friday evening, the sidewalk patios at Sidetrack (3349 N Halsted) fill up by 7pm, the sound of show-tune video nights spilling out onto the street. Roscoe's next door runs a younger, louder dance floor. For couples, Sidetrack is the better bet. You can hold a conversation, the bartenders remember faces, and the rooftop patio has a warm-weather energy that feels like a neighborhood block party rather than a club. Mind you, Northalsted can get rowdy on Saturday nights, with bachelorette groups from the suburbs packing the bars around 11pm. Go earlier, or head north to Andersonville.

Andersonville, 2 miles north along Clark Street near Foster Avenue, tends to draw queer women, non-binary folks, and couples who want a calmer evening. Big Chicks (5024 N Sheridan) has been open since 1986 and still has original art on the walls, mismatched furniture, and a Sunday gospel brunch that pulls a real cross-section of the neighborhood. The Sofo Tap around the corner pours solid craft beer in a room that feels like someone's living room, all scuffed wood floors and low lighting. For a date night, try Simon's Tavern (5210 N Clark), a Swedish-themed bar from 1934 that serves warm glögg in winter and cold aquavit in summer. The whole strip smells like roasted coffee from Everybody's Coffee and the faint sweetness of bakery ovens still running on Clark. If one of you wants to browse independent bookshops while the other grabs a drink, this is the neighborhood for a split-an-hour, meet-for-dinner afternoon.

For a date dinner that doesn't feel like a corporate anniversary package, skip the Magnificent Mile. Daisies in Logan Square (2523 N Milwaukee) serves hand-rolled pasta at around $18-24 per plate in a room small enough that you're practically sharing the table with the next couple. In Andersonville, Big Jones (5347 N Clark) does refined Southern cooking. Their fried chicken takes 45 minutes to prepare, which is either a problem or the best excuse to order another round of bourbon cocktails. For a romantic evening with a view, Cindy's Rooftop at the Chicago Athletic Association hotel (12 S Michigan) overlooks Millennium Park and Cloud Gate. Book 2 weeks ahead for a window table. Cocktails run $18-22 each. To be fair, Cindy's draws a crowd that leans straight, but it's the kind of place where nobody notices or cares who you're holding hands with. The view of the park at dusk, with Lake Michigan turning steel-gray behind it, is worth the price of the drinks.

If you're booking a hotel, the Robey (2018 W North Ave) in Wicker Park has compact standard rooms, but the corner suites with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the six-way intersection at Damen are worth the upgrade. The neighborhood puts you 15 minutes by L train from Northalsted and walking distance from strong restaurants on Division Street. Hotel Zachary (3630 N Clark) sits across from Wrigley Field in Lakeview, a 10-minute walk from the Halsted strip. Rooms are modern and sized for two adults who actually want to share the space. Chicago Pride runs the last Sunday of June, and the parade route goes through Lakeview along Halsted. If you visit during Pride weekend, book 2-3 months early. Room rates near Halsted can double. One more thing. The Chicago Cultural Center (78 E Washington) is free, has Tiffany glass domes from 1897, and is one of the best compromises in the city when one partner wants a museum and the other wants to sit with a book.