What should I avoid in Jackson Hole?

The most dangerous mistake visitors make in Jackson Hole is treating Grand Teton National Park like a petting zoo. Every summer, someone gets charged or gored after they approach a bison from 10 feet away for a photograph. Federal regulations require 100 yards of distance from bears and wolves, 25 yards from bison, elk, and moose. Rangers issue fines up to $5,000, and a 2,500-pound bull bison can hit 35 mph. You will not outrun it. Moose are the bigger concern. They look docile in the willows along Schwabacher Landing at dawn while steam rises off the Snake River behind them in the cold air. But a cow moose with calves in June or July will charge without warning. Buy bear spray at any gear shop on North Cache Street for around $50 and keep it on your hip, not buried in your daypack where it's useless in the 2 seconds you'd need it.

Town Square looks its best at sunset, the four elk-antler arches framing the Tetons in that last pink light. That's about all it's good for. The restaurants facing the square tend to charge $28 or more for a bison burger you can get for $18 at Bin22, a wine bar a few blocks south that serves better food with less markup. The western souvenir shops along Broadway sell identical screen-printed t-shirts for $40, all from the same distributor. Skip them. The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar on the square is worth one drink on the saddle barstools for the novelty, but the cocktails are weak and the crowd by 9pm is entirely tourists. Walk a block to the Silver Dollar Bar inside the Wort Hotel on North Glenwood Street, where 2,032 silver dollars are inlaid into the curved bar top and the bartenders pour with more conviction.

Do not underestimate the distances here. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort in Teton Village sits 12 miles northwest of town, and that 20-minute summer drive becomes 45 minutes on a January morning when the road is compacted ice under your tires. Teton Pass, the 8,431-foot route to Victor and Driggs on the Idaho side, closes regularly in winter storms and has killed experienced drivers on its 10% grade. Check WYDOT road conditions before you leave your hotel. In summer, the problem reverses. The road between Moose Junction and Jenny Lake turns into a crawl by 10am from mid-June through September as roughly 3.5 million annual park visitors funnel onto two lanes. Enter the park before 7am or after 5pm. Restaurant reservations at places like Snake River Grill or Café Genevieve need 2 to 4 weeks of lead time in July and August. Walk-ins get turned away by 7pm.

Jackson sits at 6,237 feet above sea level. If you flew in from the coast this morning, you'll likely feel it by mid-afternoon. Headaches, shortness of breath on the Cascade Canyon trail, and poor sleep the first night are normal at this elevation. Drink water before you feel thirsty and skip the strenuous hike on day one. The dry air, currently around 14% humidity, will crack your lips and dehydrate you faster than you expect. Carry lip balm and a water bottle everywhere. Wildfire smoke from Idaho and Montana can fill the valley any time between late July and mid-September, turning the Teton views into a flat grey wall and making outdoor effort unpleasant. There is no predicting it more than 48 hours out. Check AirNow.gov each morning before a planned hike. And brace for Jackson prices. A mid-range hotel in summer runs $350 to $600 per night. Groceries at Albertsons on West Broadway cost 20 to 30% more than the same items in Salt Lake City, 275 miles south.