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Yogyakarta Restaurants: What's Worth It

Yogyakarta, Indonesia

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Yogyakarta Restaurants: What's Worth It

Twelve kitchens, two tiers, six verdicts. This guide sorts where Yogyakarta eats by the clock and says what to order at each table: from Solo-style tengkleng on Jalan Pekapalan Timur to smashed ayam geprek at 03:00 in Terban. Every pick comes with a runner-up and a note on who it suits, plus where to find gudeg on Jalan Wijilan.

1 The Sit-Down Tier: Tujuan, ViaVia, Easy Groovy, Solaria, tengkleng bhendjoyo kraton

By 08:00 the smell of coffee drifts out of 30 Jalan Prawirotaman, where ViaVia is already taking orders. The sit-down tier in Yogyakarta is five kitchens worth planning a full meal around. Tujuan, ViaVia, Easy Groovy, Solaria and tengkleng bhendjoyo kraton split the day between them, covering breakfast, Javanese regional plates, Mexican after 23:00, a seat on Malioboro and one Solo goat dish.

None of these five kitchens publishes prices in the verified listings behind this guide, so we quote none. Tujuan, ViaVia and Easy Groovy post current menus at tujuan.id, viaviajogja.com and easygroovy.com.

Tujuan, at 17C Jalan Tirtodipuran, is our pick of the five. It serves from 09:00 to 23:00 daily and gives regional and local Indonesian cooking equal billing with pasta, sandwiches and coffee. Order the day's Javanese regional plate over the pasta. If gudeg is on, take it with krecek and a braised egg. Gudeg is young jackfruit stewed for hours in palm sugar and coconut milk until it turns brown and sweet. ViaVia is the runner-up, open 08:00 to 23:00 in the same southern cluster. Choose ViaVia if you want breakfast and dinner at one address. Choose Tujuan if the regional plates matter more than the clock.

Easy Groovy, at 43 Jl. Prawirotaman, feeds the hours after ViaVia and Tujuan close. It opens at 11:00 and closes at 01:00, and it is the only kitchen on the whole list that cooks Mexican. Order from the Mexican side at Easy Groovy.

Solaria holds 181 Jalan Malioboro, the one address in this tier on the tourist spine. Solaria is a national chain from Indonesian shopping malls, built on nasi goreng and fuyunghai, the Chinese-Indonesian omelette in sweet-sour sauce. Order one of those two. The laminated set menus pushed at walkers along Malioboro are the trap. Solaria seats you until 24:00 on Saturdays and Sundays and 23:00 on weekdays.

tengkleng bhendjoyo kraton, at no.6 jl.Pekapalan Timur, is the specialist. The name is the menu. Tengkleng is a Solo recipe of goat ribs and bones in a thin, turmeric-yellow broth, eaten with your hands. The kitchen serves from 10:00 to 22:00 seven days a week. Mind you, Pekapalan Timur is not part of the Prawirotaman and Tirtodipuran cluster, so budget a ride. For one kitchen that commits to one dish, tengkleng bhendjoyo kraton is the call, and 085725725633 is the number to give your driver.

Order the day's Javanese regional plate at Tujuan, the Mexican side at Easy Groovy, and nasi goreng at Solaria.

2 The Workaday Tier: Yammie Pathuk, Geprek Bang Vijay, Ronde RaDen, FAVOR Patisserie Pizzeria & Eatery, Jawa Timur Resto

At 03:00 in Terban you can still hear a pestle cracking fried chicken into sambal, because Geprek Bang Vijay never closes. That is the workaday tier of Yogyakarta in one scene. Yammie Pathuk, Geprek Bang Vijay, Ronde RaDen, FAVOR Patisserie Pizzeria & Eatery and Jawa Timur Resto are the kitchens you use between plans, and each one covers a different slot in the day.

Geprek Bang Vijay runs 24/7 at Terban GK5/ 672B RT 24 RW 05, postal code 55223, and the menu is ayam geprek and nothing else. Ayam geprek is battered fried chicken smashed flat with a stone pestle into raw chilli sambal, and Yogyakarta is the city that invented it in the early 2000s. Mall fried chicken is the trap at that hour. Geprek Bang Vijay has cooked one dish around the clock, and that discipline beats any franchise fryer. Save +628170434177 first, since the address reads like a neighbourhood registry entry.

FAVOR Patisserie Pizzeria & Eatery shares the 55223 postal code at 36a Jalan Cornelis Simanjuntak. It opens at 08:00 and closes at 21:00, with pastry, pizza, Indonesian and Asian cooking on one menu. Skip the hotel breakfast buffet. Walk to FAVOR Patisserie Pizzeria & Eatery for the bakery counter at 08:00, and come back for pizza before 21:00.

Yammie Pathuk, at 63 Jalan Kemetiran Kidul, serves an Asian menu from 09:00 to 21:00 daily. Pick Yammie Pathuk for the lunch that breaks a week of rice and sambal, and ask for yamie, the sweet soy-dressed noodles the name points to. Jawa Timur Resto, at 75 Jalan Parangtritis, is the alternative for the same Asian and Indonesian mix. Jawa Timur Resto serves from 08:00 to 23:00, so it takes the 22:00 dinner that the 21:00 closers cannot. The name means East Java, so ask whether rawon, the province's black beef soup, is on.

Ronde RaDen is the evening stop on Jalan Magelang, open 16:00 to 22:30 daily. Order wedang ronde, a hot ginger drink with glutinous rice balls stuffed with crushed peanut. Nothing leaves that kitchen before 16:00, so Ronde RaDen belongs after the afternoon heat eases. The listing gives only the road name, and Jalan Magelang is long, so call +6285186053468 for a pin.

Within this tier, the ranking follows the clock. Geprek Bang Vijay wins after midnight and FAVOR wins breakfast. Jawa Timur Resto sets its tables for 15 hours a day and covers the hours in between.

Geprek Bang Vijay wins after midnight, FAVOR wins breakfast, and Jawa Timur Resto covers the hours in between.

3 Tujuan Is the All-Rounder: Order the Regional Indonesian Side, Not the Pasta

At 17C Jalan Tirtodipuran, the first thing to reach you is coffee, poured from 09:00 when Tujuan opens. Stay past the first cup at Tujuan. It takes the top spot in the Yogyakarta sit-down tier because its kitchen treats regional and local Indonesian cooking as a headline, not a side dish next to pasta, sandwiches and coffee.

On the southern café streets around Jalan Prawirotaman, that balance is rarer than it sounds. Plenty of menus there are Western with three Indonesian plates bolted on. Tujuan gives the two halves equal space, which makes it the right table for a group where one person wants rice and another wants bread. Order from the regional side. The pasta at Tujuan is there for the companion who needs it.

What does regional mean in Yogyakarta? First, gudeg. The jackfruit comes out brown, soft and sweet, usually with krecek, beef skin stewed in chilli, and an egg braised in the same pot. Then sayur lodeh, vegetables simmered in coconut milk, and oseng-oseng mercon, a beef stir-fry named after firecrackers for its chilli heat. Menus rotate, so ask which of those three Javanese plates is on that day and order it first. Gudeg with krecek is the one to take if the kitchen has it.

The hours do the rest. Tujuan runs from 09:00 to 23:00 every day, 14 hours without a break, so one address covers a slow coffee and a late dinner.

The runner-up sits on the same street. Kedai Kebun, at 3 Jalan Tirtodipuran, lists local, regional and Indonesian cooking in that order. It is the better call for a traveller who wants a fully local meal and nothing else. It opens at 11:00, though, so it cannot do breakfast, and nobody at the table gets a sandwich. Tujuan is the better call for mixed groups and early starts. Both kitchens close at 23:00.

The listing carries no prices, so check the current menu at tujuan.id before you go. For a table, Tujuan answers on +62 274 417577.

Tujuan gives the two halves of its menu equal space, which makes it the right table for a group split between rice and bread.

4 ViaVia Is the Dependable Anchor: Skip the Burger and Order Indonesian

The kitchen at 30 Jalan Prawirotaman is already hot at 08:00, and the smell of coffee from ViaVia reaches the street before most of Prawirotaman is awake. ViaVia keeps that pace until 23:00, 15 hours a day, every day. That schedule is the real argument for the address.

The menu runs in two directions. Chicken, burgers, fish and chips, and pasta on one side; Indonesian and international plates on the other. Skip the burger on a first visit. Order from the Indonesian side, ask which Javanese plate the kitchen is cooking that day, and save the fish and chips for the night you feel homesick. ViaVia is a dependable anchor rather than a revelation: on a travel week in Yogyakarta, that counts for a lot.

Who is it right for? A visitor based on Jalan Prawirotaman who wants breakfast and dinner without checking the clock. ViaVia shares the street with Easy Groovy at number 43 and with Arkadia, so staying on Prawirotaman puts three kitchens from this list within walking distance.

The runner-up is Jawa Timur Resto at 75 Jalan Parangtritis, keeping the same hours: 08:00 to 23:00 daily. Jawa Timur is Indonesian for East Java, the province next door. Choose Jawa Timur Resto for Indonesian and Asian cooking with no burger on the page; choose ViaVia when your table needs both. For a Friday or Saturday that runs late, Arkadia on the same street serves until 02:00.

The verified listing carries no prices, so check viaviajogja.com for the current menu and prices. Reservations and questions go to +62 274 386557.

ViaVia is a dependable anchor rather than a revelation: on a travel week in Yogyakarta, that counts for a lot.

5 Easy Groovy Owns the Late Night: Order the Mexican Plates After 22:00

At 23:00, ViaVia and Tujuan stop taking orders. Grill smoke is still drifting out of 43 Jl. Prawirotaman, because Easy Groovy serves until 01:00. Easy Groovy opens at 11:00 in the 55153 postal code, and its menu covers international, Indonesian and Mexican cooking.

The Mexican side is the reason to come. No other kitchen among the twelve on this Yogyakarta list cooks Mexican. Pass on the generic international plates at Easy Groovy. Order Mexican.

The 01:00 close is the second reason. It makes Easy Groovy a sensible last stop when the evening runs long and a proper plate beats a snack. Arrive after 22:00 and you eat on your own schedule, not the kitchen's.

Who else fits the late slot? Arkadia, also on Jalan Prawirotaman, serves regional and local Indonesian cooking until 02:00 on Fridays and Saturdays. On a weekend, Arkadia is the better pick if you want Yogyakarta flavours after midnight. From Sunday to Thursday it closes at 23:00. On those nights, Easy Groovy is the only kitchen from this list still open on Prawirotaman. Past 01:00 on any night, the answer is Geprek Bang Vijay in Terban, open 24/7 with a one-dish menu of ayam geprek, smashed fried chicken under a blanket of chilli sambal.

The late-night order runs Easy Groovy to 01:00, Arkadia to 02:00 on weekends, and Geprek Bang Vijay after that. The verified listing carries no prices, so check easygroovy.com for the current menu and prices, or call +62 2744284123.

The late-night order runs Easy Groovy to 01:00, Arkadia to 02:00 on weekends, and Geprek Bang Vijay after that.

6 Solaria Is the Malioboro Table: Order Nasi Goreng or Fuyunghai, Not the Street Set Menu

Malioboro at dusk means horse-cart bells, motorbike exhaust and laminated menus pushed at every walker. Walk past the menus to 181 Jalan Malioboro, postal code 55271. There, Solaria serves a seated Indonesian meal on the street itself.

Solaria is a national chain from Indonesian shopping malls. Of the twelve kitchens on this Yogyakarta list, it is the only one on Malioboro. On Saturdays and Sundays Solaria runs from 10:00 to 24:00, and on weekdays from 11:00 to 23:00. That midnight weekend close means a late shopping night on Malioboro can still end at a table.

The order is nasi goreng or fuyunghai. The chain built its name in malls on those two plates, fried rice and a Chinese-Indonesian omelette in sweet-sour sauce. The trap on this stretch is the tourist set menu; a plate of nasi goreng at Solaria does the same job with less theatre. Eat, rest your feet, and go back to the shops.

For gudeg, the dish Yogyakarta is locally known for, skip Malioboro altogether. The city's gudeg street is Jalan Wijilan, east of the kraton, a short becak or taxi ride south. Stalls there sell the sweet jackfruit stew with krecek and braised egg, often from early morning.

For a sit-down dinner worth the trip, go south. Tujuan at 17C Jalan Tirtodipuran and Kedai Kebun at 3 Jalan Tirtodipuran both put regional and local Indonesian cooking at the front of the menu. Kedai Kebun suits the traveller who wants Yogyakarta cooking and nothing else, from 11:00 to 23:00. Tujuan suits the mixed table from 09:00. Solaria suits the moment you are already on Malioboro with bags in hand. The verified listing carries no prices. The listed phone number is +622114099.

A plate of nasi goreng at Solaria does the job with less theatre, but for gudeg, skip Malioboro for Jalan Wijilan.

7 tengkleng bhendjoyo kraton Is the Specialist: Ask for It by Name and Order the Dish on the Sign

From 10:00, steam and spice hang over the tables at no.6 jl.Pekapalan Timur, when tengkleng bhendjoyo kraton opens for the day. Give the driver the full name. Pekapalan Timur alone may land you at the wrong door.

The kitchen cooks one thing. Tengkleng comes from Solo, 60 kilometres north-east of Yogyakarta: goat ribs, bones and offal simmered in a thin broth yellowed with turmeric and sharpened with lemongrass and galangal. There is more bone than meat, which is the point. You eat it with your hands and suck the marrow out: ask for extra napkins. Order it with plain rice and a sweet iced tea and leave the rest of the menu alone.

Hours are 10:00 to 22:00, seven days a week. That span covers an early lunch and a late dinner equally well, Sunday included.

This is the place for an eater who came to Yogyakarta for Javanese food and wants a kitchen that commits to one dish. It is the wrong choice for a mixed group: anyone at the table wanting pasta should go to Tujuan at 17C Jalan Tirtodipuran instead.

The closest comparison for single-minded cooking is Geprek Bang Vijay in Terban, postal code 55223, which cooks only ayam geprek and never closes. After 22:00, when tengkleng bhendjoyo kraton has shut, Geprek Bang Vijay is the call. For a daytime meal built around one named Javanese dish, this is the one.

Pekapalan Timur sits outside the southern cluster on Jalan Prawirotaman and Jalan Tirtodipuran: plan a ride rather than a walk. No prices appear in the verified listing. If the address gives your driver trouble, call 085725725633 before you set off.

Tengkleng is more bone than meat, which is the point. You eat it with your hands and suck the marrow out.

8 Yammie Pathuk Is the Change of Register: Go at Lunch, Because It Shuts at 21:00

Steam rises from the kitchen at 63 Jalan Kemetiran Kidul from 09:00, when Yammie Pathuk opens its doors. Yammie Pathuk describes its cooking as Asian rather than strictly Indonesian, and that is the reason to go. After a week of rice-and-sambal plates in Yogyakarta, this is where to shift register without leaving Asia. The name points to yamie, the sweet soy-dressed wheat noodles served with the broth on the side, so ask whether they are on that day and order them first.

The neighbourhood is a bonus. Pathuk is the district that gave Yogyakarta bakpia, the flaky mung-bean pastry sold by the box as the city's standard souvenir. Walk out after lunch and you will smell the ovens.

The clock is the one thing to plan around. Yammie Pathuk serves from 09:00 to 21:00 every day and the kitchen does not linger. Make it lunch or an early dinner, then move on to a late kitchen such as Easy Groovy, open until 01:00 at 43 Jl. Prawirotaman. With the 09:00 start, Yammie Pathuk also works as a first meal of the day.

The runner-up is Jawa Timur Resto at 75 Jalan Parangtritis, which lists Asian and Indonesian cooking and serves from 08:00 to 23:00. Choose Jawa Timur Resto if dinner will run past 21:00 or you want a table in the south. Patisserie Pizzeria & Eatery in Kampung Terban also lists Asian cooking, but the name puts patisserie first: treat it as a bakery stop that closes at 21:00, not as an Asian kitchen.

Who is Yammie Pathuk right for? The traveller a week into Yogyakarta who wants a different Asian plate at lunch. The verified listing carries no prices, so call +6282292292112 to check the day's hours and prices before you go.

After a week of rice-and-sambal plates, Yammie Pathuk is where to shift register without leaving Asia.

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