How do I get around San Juan?

Old San Juan is a 7-block-by-7-block grid of blue cobblestone streets built on a hill. Walk it. The adoquine stones are slippery when wet and uneven enough to twist an ankle in sandals, so wear closed-toe shoes with grip. You'll cover the distance from Castillo San Felipe del Morro to the Cathedral of San Juan Bautista in about 15 minutes on foot, with the salt-heavy breeze coming off the Atlantic on your left. Beyond Old San Juan, the tourist corridor stretches east through Condado and Isla Verde along the coast. Uber is the connective tissue. A ride from Old San Juan to Condado runs $8-10 and takes 10 minutes outside rush hour. Condado to Isla Verde is another $7-9. Download the app before you land. Lyft also operates but has fewer drivers, so Uber tends to be the faster pickup.

The Tren Urbano is San Juan's single metro line, running 10.7 miles from Sagrado Corazón station in Santurce south to Bayamón. It opened in 2004 and carries about 30,000 riders on weekdays. Here's the problem for visitors. It doesn't reach Old San Juan, Condado, or Isla Verde. The southern terminus at Sagrado Corazón sits in Hato Rey, the financial district, which is not where tourists spend time. A single ride costs $1.50 on a reloadable card from any station kiosk. If you're staying in Santurce and want to reach the Bayamón area, the Tren Urbano works. For the standard tourist triangle of Old San Juan, Condado, and Isla Verde, skip it.

Taxis from Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport operate on a zone-fare system, not meters. The set fare to Isla Verde hotels is $15, to Condado $19, and to Old San Juan $25. These are posted rates from the tourism company. Confirm the fare before you get in, or use Uber from the arrivals level for a price comparison. Rental cars make sense only if you plan to drive Highway 3 east to Fajardo or Route 52 south to Ponce. Parking in Old San Juan is miserable. The lots near La Fortaleza charge $3-5 per hour, street spots fill by 9 AM, and the narrow colonial streets were sized for horse carts in the 1500s, not SUVs. The AquaExpreso ferry runs from Pier 2 in Old San Juan across the bay to Cataño in about 10 minutes for $0.50. The wind off the bay during the crossing cuts right through September's humidity.

The heat shapes how you move. With temperatures near 28°C and humidity above 80% on a typical September afternoon, walking more than 20 minutes without shade or water turns from exercise into endurance. The free trolley buses in Old San Juan loop through the colonial district and save the uphill return from El Morro. Look for the yellow or purple routes. AMA public buses connect wider San Juan for $0.75 per ride, but routes run infrequently with 30-to-45-minute waits and minimal signage. Most visitors skip them. If you're heading to Piñones for the roadside alcapurria stands east of Isla Verde, Uber or a rental is the only practical option. The bike path along the Piñones boardwalk runs about 6 miles along mangrove coastline, but cycling inside the city is not safe given the narrow roads and aggressive driving.