November in Paris means gray skies. That is the first thing you should prepare for. Daytime highs hover around 11°C (52°F), the sun disappears before 5pm by mid-month, and the city sees about 11 rainy days with roughly 66mm of total rainfall. The light takes on a particular quality, a flat silver-white that turns the limestone facades along the Seine almost monochrome. It is damp. The kind of damp that creeps into your coat collar and lingers there.
To be fair, November also strips away the tourist density that makes summer Paris feel like a queue with monuments attached. Wait times at the Louvre and Musée d'Orsay shrink to a fraction of their July peaks, hotel rates fall to near-annual lows, and restaurant reservations that need weeks of planning in June are often available same-day. The third Thursday of November brings the annual Beaujolais Nouveau release, and wine bars from Belleville to Saint-Germain-des-Prés pour the year's new vintage well past midnight. By the final week, the first Christmas markets open at the Jardin des Tuileries and holiday lights appear along the Champs-Élysées.
Build your trip around indoor experiences. Plan mornings at the Musée d'Orsay or smaller galleries in Le Marais, afternoons in covered passages like Galerie Vivienne or Passage des Panoramas, and evenings in bistros where the soupe à l'oignon actually matters. Humidity sits at 86%, so the 11°C on the thermometer tends to feel closer to 7 or 8.
Why visit in November
- Hotel rates drop 30-40% from the June-September peak, making central arrondissement stays genuinely affordable for mid-range budgets
- Queue times at the Louvre, Musée d'Orsay, and Sainte-Chapelle fall to a fraction of summer levels, and you can often walk into restaurants that are booked solid in warmer months
- The Beaujolais Nouveau release on the third Thursday turns neighborhood wine bars across the city into spontaneous late-night celebrations
- Late November brings the opening of Christmas markets at the Jardin des Tuileries and the first holiday light installations, with far fewer visitors than the December crush
Worth knowing
- Daylight drops to roughly 9 hours by month's end, with sunset before 5pm, which limits outdoor sightseeing and makes late afternoon feel like evening
- Persistent overcast skies and 86% humidity create a damp chill that penetrates layers more than the 11°C reading suggests
- Many outdoor terraces close or reduce seating for the season, and parks like the Jardin du Luxembourg lose most of their foliage by mid-month
- November 11 (Armistice Day) is a public holiday when some shops and smaller businesses close, which can catch visitors off guard if they haven't planned around it
Best for
Think twice if
November delivers Paris's transition into proper winter. Expect persistent overcast with occasional breaks of pale sun, particularly in the first week. Rain arrives as light, frequent drizzle rather than heavy downpours, accumulating about 66mm across 11 days. Wind picks up noticeably along the Seine corridor, making exposed quays and bridge crossings feel bitter by late afternoon. Mornings can be foggy, especially near the river, clearing to flat gray by midday. The dampness is the real story. At 86% average humidity, the 11°C air feels several degrees colder than a dry 11°C. You might get a few crisp, clear days scattered through the month, but planning around indoor activities is the safer bet.
Year-round climate
Averages from the last 5 years.
| Month | Avg high (°C) | Avg low (°C) | Rainfall (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 7 | 2 | 84 |
| Feb | 10 | 3 | 47 |
| Mar | 13 | 4 | 63 |
| Apr | 16 | 6 | 55 |
| May | 19 | 10 | 72 |
| Jun | 24 | 14 | 82 |
| Jul | 25 | 15 | 86 |
| Aug | 25 | 15 | 71 |
| Sep | 22 | 13 | 82 |
| Oct | 18 | 10 | 85 |
| Nov | 11 | 6 | 66 |
| Dec | 9 | 4 | 69 |
Headline events
Beaujolais Nouveau
Third Thursday of November (usually falls between November 15-21)
The annual release of the year's first Beaujolais wine, arriving at midnight on the third Thursday of November. Wine bars, bistros, and cafés across Paris pour it by the glass, and the mood in neighborhoods like Oberkampf, Bastille, and the 11th arrondissement turns into an impromptu city-wide celebration that runs until the early hours. Wine lovers from across Europe time their Paris trips specifically to this night.
Best things to do in November
Covered passage exploration in the 2nd and 9th arrondissements
sightseeingParis has about 20 surviving covered passages from the 19th century, and November's cold drizzle is the ideal reason to walk them. Galerie Vivienne near the Palais Royal has mosaic floors and a wine bar tucked at one end. Passage des Panoramas, the oldest, dates to 1799 and still houses stamp dealers, bistros, and a vintage poster shop. You can link 4 or 5 passages in a single afternoon walk between Grands Boulevards and Bourse.
Rain and cold make covered passages genuinely practical, not a novelty detour. They're heated, dry, and nearly empty compared to summer.Booking tipNo booking needed. Start at Passage des Panoramas near Métro Grands Boulevards and work south toward Galerie Vivienne.
Musée d'Orsay without the crowds
cultureThe former Beaux-Arts railway station holds the world's largest collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings. In November, you can stand in front of Monet's Rouen Cathedral series or Renoir's Bal du moulin de la Galette without being shoulder-to-shoulder with tour groups. The 5th-floor café offers views across the Seine through the station's original clock face.
Summer wait times of 60-90 minutes drop to 15-20 minutes in November. Late afternoon light through the glass roof is particularly good on the rare clear day.Booking tipBuy timed tickets online to skip the remaining queue. Thursday evening openings until 21:45 are especially quiet.
Wine bar crawl for Beaujolais Nouveau
food_and_drinkOn the third Thursday, the new Beaujolais vintage releases at midnight. Bars in the 11th arrondissement around Rue Oberkampf and Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud fill early. The mood is loose, celebratory, and entirely local. Le Baron Rouge near Marché d'Aligre is a reliable anchor point with barrels out on the sidewalk even in November.
Beaujolais Nouveau release happens once a year, on the third Thursday of November. The entire city participates.Booking tipNo reservations at most natural wine bars. Arrive by 19:00 for a seat. Standing room fills by 21:00.
Sainte-Chapelle in empty-season light
cultureThe 13th-century chapel on Île de la Cité holds 1,113 stained glass panels across 15 windows, each 15 meters tall. November's low-angle sun sends colored light across the stone floor in patterns you simply cannot see in summer's overhead glare. The chapel is small. In July, it's a crowd management exercise. In November, it's 6 or 7 people in silence.
Low sun angle creates the best stained glass illumination of the year. Crowd levels drop to single digits on weekday mornings.Booking tipBuy a combined ticket with the Conciergerie next door. Weekday mornings between 09:30 and 11:00 are typically the emptiest.
Les Catacombes de Paris
sightseeingThe underground ossuary beneath the 14th arrondissement holds the remains of roughly 6 million Parisians, transferred from overcrowded cemeteries in the late 18th century. The tunnels maintain a constant temperature of about 14°C year-round. In November, when it's colder and damper above ground, the catacombs actually feel warmer than the surface. The 1.5km walking route takes about 45 minutes.
Summer queues of 2-3 hours drop to 30-45 minutes. The constant underground temperature makes this one of the few attractions where November weather is an advantage.Booking tipOnline tickets sell out days ahead even in low season, since daily capacity is capped at 200 visitors at a time. Book at least 3 days in advance.
Cooking class focused on November ingredients
food_and_drinkSeveral cooking schools in the Marais and near the Bastille market run seasonal menus built around game, root vegetables, and chestnuts. Le Cordon Bleu on Rue de l'Université offers single-day workshops. La Cuisine Paris near Hôtel de Ville runs market-to-table classes that start with shopping at the Marché d'Aligre.
November's game season, chestnut harvest, and root vegetable peak make this the richest month for French comfort cooking classes.Booking tipBook at least a week ahead. Classes with market visits tend to fill before kitchen-only sessions.
Afternoon tea at a grand hotel salon
food_and_drinkWhen it's 7°C and drizzling outside, sitting in a warm, chandelier-lit salon with a pot of Mariage Frères tea and a plate of petits fours makes November feel like a feature, not a bug. The salons at Le Meurice on Rue de Rivoli and the Hôtel Plaza Athénée on Avenue Montaigne both run afternoon tea services with pastry programs that change seasonally.
Cold, dark afternoons need a destination. November tea menus tend to feature chestnut, quince, and pear flavors that only appear for 6-8 weeks.Booking tipReserve 2-3 days in advance for weekend sittings. Weekday slots are usually available same-day.
Père Lachaise Cemetery walk
sightseeingThe 44-hectare cemetery in the 20th arrondissement holds the graves of Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Édith Piaf, Chopin, and Molière, among roughly 70,000 others. November strips the leaves from the old chestnuts and maples, opening sightlines between the Gothic tombs and mossy headstones that are hidden in summer. The damp ground and bare branches give the place a photogenic starkness.
Late autumn foliage against weathered stone creates the most atmospheric conditions of the year. November 1 (Toussaint) brings fresh flowers on many graves.Booking tipFree entry. The main entrance on Boulevard de Ménilmontant is closest to Métro Père Lachaise (line 2). Weekday mornings are nearly deserted.
What to eat in November
On menus now
Huîtres (oysters)
French oyster season hits full stride in November. Fines de claire and spéciales from Marennes-Oléron and Cancale appear on brasserie platters across the city, at their briny, plump best in the cold months. The classic pairing is a glass of Muscadet or Chablis.
Gibier (game meats)
November is peak game season in France. Bistros and brasseries feature venison (chevreuil), wild boar (sanglier), pheasant (faisan), and hare (lièvre) in rich, slow-cooked preparations. Restaurants near Les Halles and in the 6th arrondissement tend to have the most dedicated game menus.
Pot-au-feu
The quintessential French cold-weather dish appears on menus across the city when temperatures drop into single digits. Beef shin, marrow bones, root vegetables, and broth, served with coarse salt and cornichons. The kind of meal that makes a November evening in Paris feel like a good idea.
Soupe à l'oignon gratinée
French onion soup reaches its peak relevance when Paris turns cold and damp. Slow-caramelized onions in beef broth, topped with a crouton and a thick cap of melted Gruyère. Brasseries in the 1st and 5th arrondissements still serve it the traditional way, in heavy ceramic crocks that stay hot for 20 minutes.
Street food peaks
Marrons chauds (roasted chestnuts)
Street vendors set up their charcoal braziers on corners throughout Montmartre, along Boulevard Saint-Michel, and near major Métro exits from early November. The warm paper cone of split chestnuts is as much about warming your hands as eating them. Prices vary by vendor and portion size.
What to drink
Beaujolais Nouveau
The year's first Beaujolais arrives on the third Thursday of November. Light, fruity, meant to be drunk young. Wine bars across Paris pour it by the glass on release night, and many restaurants build limited menus around the pairing for the rest of the month.
Regular events in November
Armistice Day ceremoniesFree
November 11 marks the end of World War I. The President lays a wreath at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier beneath the Arc de Triomphe, and a military parade proceeds down the Champs-Élysées. Traffic closures affect the 8th arrondissement from early morning through midday.
November 11Salon de la Photo
Paris's annual photography exhibition and trade fair at the Parc des Expositions at Porte de Versailles draws professional and amateur photographers for 4 days of workshops, portfolio reviews, and equipment displays. Typically the second weekend of the month.
Second weekend of NovemberTuileries Christmas Market openingFree
The Jardin des Tuileries market typically opens in the final week of November, with about 100 chalets selling crafts, vin chaud, raclette, and holiday gifts. It runs through early January but is at its quietest and least crowded in these opening days.
Late November (usually November 20-25 opening)Illuminations on the Champs-ÉlyséesFree
The holiday light installations along the Champs-Élysées typically switch on in the third or fourth week of November, running nightly until early January. The 2km of lights stretching from Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe draw evening crowds, though the late-November start means far fewer visitors than December.
Third or fourth week of NovemberBest places this November
Musée de l'Orangerie
museumTwo oval rooms purpose-built for Monet's 8 monumental Water Lilies panels, plus a lower-level collection of Cézanne, Renoir, and Matisse. The Orangerie sits at the west end of the Tuileries garden and rarely has queues longer than 10 minutes in November. The curved walls and natural light make it feel meditative on gray days.
1st arrondissementGalerie Vivienne
architectureThe most photogenic of the 19th-century covered passages. Neoclassical columns, mosaic tile floors, and a glass-paned ceiling that diffuses November's gray light into something almost warm. Bistrot Vivienne at the far end does a proper three-course lunch. The passage connects Rue Vivienne to Rue des Petits-Champs.
2nd arrondissementShakespeare and Company
bookshopThe independent English-language bookshop on Rue de la Bûcherie, across the Seine from Notre-Dame. Open since 1951. November afternoons here tend to be quiet enough that the staff will talk books with you. The upstairs reading room with its creaking floor and worn armchairs overlooks the cathedral scaffolding.
5th arrondissementLe Marais galleries
artThe cluster of contemporary art galleries along Rue Charlot, Rue de Turenne, and Rue Debelleyme in the 3rd arrondissement runs on a rhythm of openings and vernissages. November is mid-season for the gallery calendar. Perrotin, Thaddaeus Ropac, and Galerie Templon are the anchors, but dozens of smaller spaces fill the blocks between them.
3rd arrondissementMarché d'Aligre
marketOne of Paris's oldest and most atmospheric markets, split between an open-air section on Place d'Aligre and the covered Marché Beauvau. November mornings bring crates of late-season pears, chestnuts, root vegetables, and mushrooms. Le Baron Rouge, the wine bar at the market's edge, opens barrels of oysters on the sidewalk through the cold months.
12th arrondissementPalais Garnier
architectureThe 1,979-seat opera house designed by Charles Garnier is worth visiting even without a performance ticket. The Grand Foyer's gilded ceiling, the Chagall-painted dome above the auditorium, and the grand marble staircase are open for self-guided daytime visits. November's quiet season means you might share the foyer with fewer than 20 other people.
9th arrondissementMusée Jacquemart-André
museumA 19th-century mansion on Boulevard Haussmann housing Italian Renaissance paintings, Flemish masters, and period rooms that still feel like a private collection rather than a public museum. The tearoom in the former dining room, under a Tiepolo ceiling fresco, is one of the most atmospheric spots in Paris for a November afternoon break.
8th arrondissement
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Insider tips
The Paris Museum Pass (2, 4, or 6 days) covers the Louvre, Orsay, Orangerie, Sainte-Chapelle, and about 50 other sites. In November, when queue times are short enough to visit 3-4 museums per day, the pass pays for itself faster than in summer when you'd spend half the day waiting in line.
Thursday late-night openings at the Musée d'Orsay (until 21:45) and the Louvre (until 21:45 on Fridays) are the quietest museum hours of the week. You can have entire wings to yourself after 19:00.
The RER C train along the Left Bank runs partially above ground between Musée d'Orsay and Champ de Mars stations, giving you a brief panoramic view of the Seine and the Eiffel Tower. It costs the same as a regular Métro ticket.
If you're visiting during the first week of November, Toussaint (All Saints' Day, November 1) is a public holiday. French families visit cemeteries with chrysanthemums. Père Lachaise is at its most flower-covered and atmospheric on this day, but expect more visitors than usual.
For Beaujolais Nouveau night, the natural wine bars in the 11th arrondissement (around Rue Oberkampf) tend to be more festive and less formal than the wine bars in Saint-Germain. The crowd skews younger and the atmosphere is looser.
Avoid these mistakes
- Packing only a light jacket. November in Paris is not autumn in the way most North Americans imagine it. The humidity makes 11°C feel like 7°C, and a fleece or lightweight shell is not enough by the second hour of walking.
- Skipping the Métro in favor of walking everywhere. Summer Paris is a great walking city. November Paris, with 9 hours of daylight and persistent drizzle, will exhaust you if you try to cover the same ground on foot. Use the Métro between arrondissements and save walking for the neighborhoods themselves.
- Planning outdoor dining. Most terraces are either closed or enclosed with plastic sheeting by November. If sitting outside matters to you, this is the wrong month.
- Ignoring the Armistice Day closures on November 11. Banks, some shops, and smaller businesses close for the public holiday. The Champs-Élysées is closed to traffic for the morning ceremony. Plan indoor activities or museum visits for this day.
- Arriving without pre-booked museum tickets. Even in low season, the Catacombes and Sainte-Chapelle have daily capacity limits that sell out. The Louvre and Orsay rarely sell out in November, but pre-booking still lets you skip the ticket queue.
Practical tips for November
November daylight runs from about 07:45 to 17:00, shrinking to roughly 08:15 to 16:50 by month's end. Plan your outdoor sightseeing and photography for the 10:00-15:00 window when light is strongest. Mornings tend to be foggy near the river, so start with a museum or indoor market before heading to open-air sites. The Métro runs until 01:15 on weeknights and 02:15 on Friday and Saturday nights. Carry a Navigo Easy card or use contactless payment on the turnstiles. For restaurant reservations, same-day booking works at most bistros and brasseries in November, but book 2-3 days ahead for well-known addresses in the 6th and 7th arrondissements. Most shops close on November 1 (Toussaint) and November 11 (Armistice Day). Pharmacies marked with a green cross keep rotating Sunday and holiday schedules posted in their windows.
FAQ
Is November a good time to visit Paris?
November is a fair-weather month in both senses. The weather is gray, damp, and cold, with about 9 hours of daylight by month's end. But the trade-offs are real. Hotel rates drop 30-40% from summer peaks, museum queues shrink dramatically, and restaurant availability opens up. If your trip is built around museums, food, and indoor culture rather than parks and outdoor cafés, November delivers a quieter, more affordable version of the city. The Beaujolais Nouveau release and early Christmas market openings add seasonal texture that you won't find in October or early December.
What is the weather like in Paris in November?
Expect highs around 11°C (52°F) and lows near 6°C (43°F), with about 11 rainy days totaling roughly 66mm of precipitation. Rain tends to arrive as persistent drizzle rather than downpours. Humidity averages 86%, which makes the air feel several degrees colder than the thermometer reads. Overcast skies are the norm, with occasional breaks of pale sun. Wind along the Seine can feel biting in the late afternoon. Pack waterproof layers and expect to spend more time indoors than you might in spring or fall.
How crowded is Paris in November?
November is one of the least crowded months of the year. Wait times at the Louvre and Musée d'Orsay typically drop to 15-20 minutes from the 60-90 minute summer peaks. You can walk into most restaurants without a reservation. The exceptions are the Beaujolais Nouveau release night (third Thursday), when wine bars fill up, and the final week when early Christmas market visitors arrive. Neither approaches summer density.
What should I wear in Paris in November?
Layer for a 5-11°C range with high humidity. A waterproof mid-length coat over merino wool base layers and a sweater handles the outdoor portion. Waterproof boots with rubber soles are important for wet cobblestones. Bring a scarf, thin gloves, and a wind-resistant umbrella. Museums and restaurants keep interiors warm, so you need layers you can remove and carry without a bulky bag.
Are Christmas markets open in Paris in November?
The Tuileries Christmas market and the Champs-Élysées holiday lights typically open in the last week of November, around November 20-25. These first few days are the quietest of the entire market season. The full roster of neighborhood Christmas markets across Paris doesn't open until the first week of December. If Christmas markets are your primary reason for visiting, early December is likely a better fit, but late November gives you a preview without the December crowds.
Things to Do in Paris in November
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