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Best cafes in Paris

Paris, France

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Paris does not lack for cafes, and that is precisely the problem. The tourist streets are lined with places that exist to sell an idea of Paris rather than a decent cup of coffee, and the difference between a wasted hour and a memorable one comes down to which door you push. The twelve rooms below are chosen because each of them earns the address it occupies: some by roasting their own beans, some by holding a corner of the Marais or the Île Saint-Louis for two or three generations of regulars, some by importing a tea ritual that Paris did not previously have. A few keep late hours, which matters more than it should in a city that closes early. A few keep unusual ones, which is its own kind of honesty. None of them are on this list because they photograph well. They are here because when you sit down and order, the room and the cup argue for themselves.

  1. black and white restaurant with chairs and tables
    1

    Les Marronniers

    18 Rue des Archives

    A café that stays open past midnight, seven nights a week

    From 09:00 the terrace at Les Marronniers, 18 Rue des Archives, starts filling with the kind of neighbourhood traffic the tourist streets never get. Skip the packed corner cafes on the main drag; the room here holds its ground from morning to 02:00, every day of the week, which in Paris is a statement about who the place is for. The kitchen keeps to French, the phone is answered at +33 1 40 27 87 72, and the website at cartes.opossum.pro/marronniers is the only concession to being found. Come at midnight on a Tuesday and the tables are still full; that tells you what kind of café this is.

    • french

    Hours: Mo-Su 09:00-02:00

  2. a group of people sitting at tables outside of a restaurant
    2

    Caféothèque de Paris

    52 Rue de l'Hôtel de Ville, Paris, 75004

    A working coffee school with a bar attached

    The counter at 52 Rue de l'Hôtel de Ville, 75004, is what a coffee shop looks like when the people behind it teach the craft as well as pour it. This is Caféothèque de Paris, and the locals who care about coffee go here rather than the espresso-with-a-view places along the Seine. Doors open at 09:30 and close at 19:00, every day, which is a working-week rhythm, not a tourist one. The website at lacafeotheque.com lists the origins on offer, and the line at +33 1 53 01 83 84 takes tastings. Order a filter, sit at the counter, ask what they roasted last week.

    • coffee shop

    Hours: Mo-Su 09:30-19:00

  3. bread on top of saucer near teacup
    3

    Le Saint-Régis

    6 Rue Jean du Bellay, Paris, 75004

    Breakfast from 07:30 on the Île Saint-Louis

    By 07:30 the shutters are already up at 6 Rue Jean du Bellay, 75004, and Le Saint-Régis is pouring coffee to the handful of people who live on the island and cross the bridge later than everyone else. Don't bother with the tour-bus terraces near Notre-Dame; the room here runs a proper breakfast and keeps going until 02:00, which is a working café's day, not a photograph opportunity. The kitchen also does French plates when the morning is over, the website at cafesaintregisparis.com carries the reservation form, and the line at +33 1 43 54 59 41 is answered by someone who sounds like they mean it. Order the eggs, take the window seat, watch the island wake up.

    • breakfast
    • french

    Hours: Mo-Su 07:30-02:00

  4. man and woman sitting on chair inside room
    4

    Griffon

    55 bis Rue des Francs Bourgeois, Paris, 75004

    Coffee in the morning, tapas after dark, on one of the busiest streets in the Marais

    The door at 55 bis Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004, opens at 12:00 and doesn't close until midnight, which tells you that Griffon is not trying to be one thing. The menu carries three lines at once: coffee shop, French, tapas, and the room switches register as the day goes. Avoid the identical bistros on this stretch chasing the tourist euro; the kitchen here commits to whichever hour you have walked in for. Wednesday through Sunday only, which is a choice, not a shortcoming; the address at griffon.paris posts the current list, and the line at +33 1 43 36 98 37 holds tables. Order small plates and stay past 22:00.

    • coffee shop
    • french
    • tapas

    Hours: We-Su 12:00-24:00

  5. Eiffel tower visible from a parisian street cafe.
    5

    Le Bouledogue

    20 Rue Rambuteau

    A neighbourhood French room that stays open to 23:30 six nights a week

    From 09:30 the front window at 20 Rue Rambuteau fills with the kind of soft daylight the street is famous for, and Le Bouledogue starts a working day that runs to 23:30. Skip the museum-adjacent cafes that price for the crowd; the kitchen here keeps to French and holds the same room from morning coffee through late dinner. Sunday is the one day the shutters stay down, which is honest scheduling in a quarter that pretends to open every hour of every day. The website at lebouledogue.fr carries the current menu, and the phone at +33 1 40 27 90 90 takes reservations for the back tables that regulars know to ask for.

    • french

    Hours: Mo-Sa 09:30-23:30

  6. A building that has a bunch of flowers on it
    6

    Café Panis

    21 Quai de Montebello, Paris, 75005

    A river-facing café that opens at 07:00 and closes at 01:00

    By 07:00 on a weekday the terrace at 21 Quai de Montebello, 75005, is already open, and Café Panis has the river to itself for the first hour. The locals who work in the quarter come for the early coffee, then the room turns over to visitors as the morning gets going; it beats the identical postcard cafes further along the quai chasing the same tourist euro. The kitchen holds to French plates, service runs to 01:00 on weekdays and 08:00 to 01:00 at the weekend, the website at cafepanis.com posts the current card, and the line at +33 1 43 54 19 71 answers when you call. Take the outside table, order simply, watch the light change on the water.

    • french

    Hours: Mo-Fr 07:00-01:00; Sa-Su 08:00-01:00

  7. a building with a red awning in the middle of a street
    7

    Le Loir dans la Théière

    3 Rue des Rosiers

    A tea room with slabs of tart that arrive taller than the plate

    The front door at 3 Rue des Rosiers opens at 09:00 and there is often already a queue by 09:15; Le Loir dans la Théière is a teahouse, not a coffee bar, and the distinction matters here. The locals swear by the slice of citrus tart taken with a pot of something dark and smoky; don't bother with the pastry chains a few streets over promising the same thing in half the time. The room shuts at 19:30, which is early for Paris and correct for the kind of afternoon this place was built for. The website at leloirdanslatheiere.com lists the current cakes, and the phone at +33 1 42 72 90 61 does not take reservations, which is part of the deal.

    • teahouse

    Hours: Mo-Su 09:00-19:30

  8. A teddy bear sitting in the window of a cafe
    8

    Snowvan

    15 Rue Saint-Jacques, 75005

    Coffee, tea and ice cream from the same counter, into the late evening

    From 12:00 the counter at 15 Rue Saint-Jacques, 75005, serves three things at once: coffee, ice cream and tea, and Snowvan pulls the trick off by keeping each of them narrow and good. The locals head here after lunch rather than to the chain gelato windows on the busier streets; the room is small, the queue moves, and the doors stay open to 22:30 every day. The phone at +33 1 42 01 84 60 answers questions about the current flavours, and the Facebook page at facebook.com/366722063936197 posts what came in this week. Order the espresso and one scoop, take it outside, walk it down the street.

    • coffee shop
    • ice cream
    • tea

    Hours: Mo-Su 12:00-22:30

  9. 9

    Yi Fang Tea

    123 Rue Saint-Denis

    Fruit tea and bubble tea brewed to order

    The counter at 123 Rue Saint-Denis does not open until 13:00, which is a clue that Yi Fang Tea is calibrated for the afternoon, not the morning rush. The menu is bubble tea, made fresh rather than poured from a bottle, and it stays open until 22:00 every day of the week, which is late enough to catch the after-cinema crowd walking north from the river. Skip the chain kiosks a block over promising the same drink for less; the fruit here is peeled and steeped in front of you, which is the whole point of the exercise. The website at yifangtea.fr carries the current menu, and the line at +33 9 56 03 02 95 answers for takeaway orders.

    • bubble tea

    Hours: Mo-Su 13:00-22:00

  10. people standing near storefront
    10

    Fika

    11 Rue Payenne, Paris, 75003

    A Swedish coffee ritual, on a quiet Marais street

    From 08:30 the room at 11 Rue Payenne, 75003, starts a Nordic morning in a French quarter; Fika is a coffeeshop that borrows its name from a Swedish habit and its hours from a working week. Doors stay closed on Monday, open Tuesday to Wednesday and Friday to Sunday to 19:00, and hold Thursday to 21:00, which is a schedule that trusts its regulars to remember. The locals prefer this street to the choked cafes around the Musée Picasso a few blocks over; the room is small, the light is good, the pastry counter is honest. The website at fika.paris posts the day's bakes, and the line at +33 6 81 66 77 62 takes orders ahead.

    • coffeeshop
  11. people walking on sidewalk near white concrete building during daytime
    11

    Hanami Teatime

    50 Rue des Gravilliers, Paris, 75003

    Japanese pancakes and brunch, in a small tea room

    By 10:00 the small dining room at 50 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003, is already turning out pancakes to a queue that knows what it came for; Hanami Teatime holds a narrow menu of Japanese, pancake, tea, dessert, brunch, and does not stray. The locals swear by a mid-morning table over the tourist brunch rooms selling French toast to the pavement; here the fluffy soufflé pancakes are the point, and they take the time they take. Doors close at 19:00 Monday to Thursday, at 19:30 Friday to Sunday, which is a tea-room's day, not a restaurant's. The website at hanamiteatime.com carries the booking form, and the phone at +33 6 71 95 19 38 holds tables for two.

    • japanese
    • pancake
    • tea
    • dessert
    • brunch

    Hours: Mo-Th 10:00-19:00; Fr-Su 10:00-19:30

  12. A building with a sign that says boulangere house
    12

    T'Cup

    16 Rue des Minimes, Paris, 75003

    An English-leaning teahouse open into the late evening

    From 09:00 the room at 16 Rue des Minimes, 75003, runs an English day in a French quarter; T'Cup is a teahouse that also does burgers, tea and English plates and keeps them all going until 23:00 Monday and Wednesday to Saturday, with Sunday closing at 20:00. Skip the identikit brunch rooms on the busier streets nearby; the counter here holds a serious tea list and the kitchen sends out a proper burger to go with it. The address at t-cupparis.com carries the current card, and the line at +33 1 42 72 00 98 answers reservations. Come in the late afternoon, order a pot, stay through the evening; the room is built for that hour.

    • english
    • tea
    • burger
    • teahouse

    Hours: We-Sa 09:00-23:00; Su 09:00-20:00; Mo 09:00-23:00

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