December in Paris means short days, damp cold, and the kind of 8°C (47°F) chill that finds its way through your jacket within 20 minutes on the Seine. Sunset falls around 4:50 PM in mid-December, which gives you roughly 8 hours of usable daylight for outdoor sightseeing before the streetlights take over. The 87% humidity makes the temperature feel several degrees colder than a dry 8°C, and the overcast skies that dominate about 2 out of every 3 days can flatten your mood if you're not prepared for them. This is not the Paris of long golden evenings on a terrace. That Paris belongs to June.
That said, the city compensates. Paris leans hard into the holiday season, and the result is genuinely worth seeing. Christmas markets fill the Jardin des Tuileries and several smaller squares across the Left Bank. The department stores on Boulevard Haussmann, particularly Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, put up animated window displays that draw sidewalk crowds 3 and 4 deep. The Champs-Élysées runs its annual light installation from late November through early January. Roasted chestnut vendors set up on corners across Montmartre and the Quartier Latin, and the warm, spiced smell of vin chaud drifts through every marché de Noël.
The practical upside of visiting outside peak season is real. The Louvre and Musée d'Orsay have noticeably shorter queues on weekday mornings compared to June through September. Restaurant reservations in Le Marais and Saint-Germain-des-Prés that would need 2 weeks of lead time in September might only need a couple of days. Hotel rates run above the annual average because of holiday demand, but below the peaks of July and Fashion Week. Sunset over Sacré-Cœur lands around 4:45 PM, and from the basilica steps you can watch the lights come on across the rooftops of 10 arrondissements below.
Why visit in December
- Christmas markets at the Jardin des Tuileries and Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés draw visitors specifically for the holiday atmosphere, with around 100 chalets at the Tuileries market alone selling regional food, crafts, and vin chaud
- The Louvre, Musée d'Orsay, and Orangerie all have noticeably shorter weekday queues than the June-September peak, often under 20 minutes with pre-booked tickets
- Galeries Lafayette's 25-metre Christmas tree under the Art Nouveau dome and the animated window displays along Boulevard Haussmann are a free, genuinely impressive spectacle that only runs from mid-November through early January
- Oyster season peaks in December through February, and réveillon dining on Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve is one of the great Parisian culinary traditions, with most serious restaurants offering special multi-course menus
- The restored Notre-Dame Cathedral, which reopened in December 2024 after more than 5 years of reconstruction, is still a significant draw for first-time visitors and return travelers alike
Worth knowing
- Daylight is limited to about 8 hours, with sunrise after 8:30 AM and sunset before 5 PM, which compresses outdoor sightseeing significantly and makes afternoon walking tours feel rushed
- The combination of 3.8°C (39°F) lows and 87% humidity creates a penetrating damp cold that feels harsher than the numbers suggest, especially along the river or in open parks
- December 25 and January 1 shut down most independent shops, many restaurants, and some smaller museums. Planning meals around those dates requires advance booking or a willingness to eat at hotel restaurants
- Hotel rates run 30-50% above the annual average during the Christmas and New Year's Eve period, with the sharpest spikes in the week between December 23 and January 2
Best for
Think twice if
December in Paris is cold, damp, and gray. Expect overcast skies most days, with temperatures that rarely feel warm even at midday. The high humidity amplifies the cold considerably. Rain tends to fall as light, intermittent drizzle rather than heavy downpours, spread across roughly 11 days of the month. Snow is possible but uncommon in central Paris, appearing maybe once or twice in a typical December and rarely accumulating. The wind along the Seine and in open squares like the Esplanade du Trocadéro can make the effective temperature feel several degrees colder than the reading. Mornings tend to be raw, with fog along the river clearing by late morning.
Seasonal caution
- Overnight temperatures occasionally dip below 0°C (32°F) in late December, particularly during clear-sky cold snaps. The damp cold at 87% humidity makes effective temperatures feel 3-5°C colder than readings suggest. Dress for conditions several degrees below the forecast, especially near the Seine or on elevated spots like Montmartre.
Year-round climate
Averages from the last 5 years.
| Month | Avg high (°C) | Avg low (°C) | Rainfall (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 7 | 2 | 84 |
| Feb | 10 | 3 | 47 |
| Mar | 13 | 4 | 63 |
| Apr | 16 | 6 | 55 |
| May | 19 | 10 | 72 |
| Jun | 24 | 14 | 82 |
| Jul | 25 | 15 | 86 |
| Aug | 25 | 15 | 71 |
| Sep | 22 | 13 | 82 |
| Oct | 18 | 10 | 85 |
| Nov | 11 | 6 | 66 |
| Dec | 9 | 4 | 69 |
Headline events
Les Marchés de Noël de Paris
Late November through December 24-28 (varies by market)
Paris hosts Christmas markets across the city from late November through late December, with the largest typically at the Jardin des Tuileries (around 100 chalets) and another at La Défense. Smaller markets appear at Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Place de l'Hôtel de Ville, and several arrondissement squares. The Tuileries market includes a Ferris wheel, regional food stalls selling raclette, tartiflette, and vin chaud, plus craft vendors. The atmosphere peaks in the early evening when the lights come on and the stalls fill with steam and the smell of melted cheese and mulled spices.
Réveillon de la Saint-Sylvestre
December 31
New Year's Eve in Paris centers on the Champs-Élysées, where hundreds of thousands gather for a countdown and a light-and-sound show projected onto the Arc de Triomphe. The RATP typically extends Métro service until around 2:15 AM with free rides from early evening. Restaurants across the city offer special réveillon menus, and the Seine riverboat dinner cruises book out weeks in advance. The atmosphere on the Champs-Élysées is intense, cold, and packed, but unmistakably Parisian.
Best things to do in December
Walk the Christmas markets at Jardin des Tuileries
marketThe largest of Paris's annual Christmas markets fills the western end of the Tuileries with roughly 100 wooden chalets, a Ferris wheel, and food stalls selling raclette, crêpes, and vin chaud. The walkways are lit with warm string lights, and on a cold evening the whole scene steams with food smoke and breath. Arrive on a weekday evening to avoid the worst of the weekend crowds.
The market runs from late November through late December. This is the only time of year the Tuileries transforms into a full open-air market.Booking tipNo tickets needed. Weekday evenings between 5 and 7 PM tend to be the most pleasant balance of lights-on and manageable crowds.
See the animated window displays on Boulevard Haussmann
sightseeingGaleries Lafayette and Printemps Haussmann both install elaborate mechanical window displays in November that run through early January. The themes change each year, but the craftsmanship is consistently high. Galeries Lafayette also installs a massive Christmas tree under its Art Nouveau stained-glass dome inside the store. Free to see from the street or from the interior balconies.
The displays are installed specifically for the holiday season, typically mid-November through early January.Booking tipGo before 10 AM or after 8 PM on weekdays. Weekend afternoons are shoulder-to-shoulder on the sidewalk.
Attend a classical concert at Sainte-Chapelle
cultureThe 13th-century Gothic chapel on the Île de la Cité hosts evening candlelit concerts of Vivaldi, Bach, and other chamber works year-round, but in December the setting feels particularly right. The stained glass walls, lit from inside, surrounded by cold dark air outside, create something you won't get from a concert hall. The acoustic is intimate and the seating is tight.
December's early darkness means even a 7 PM concert happens well after sunset, and the candlelit interior against the cold exterior is at its most dramatic.Booking tipBook at least 2 weeks ahead for weekend performances in December. Seats are unheated, so bring your coat.
Spend a morning at the Musée d'Orsay
museumThe converted Beaux-Arts railway station holds the world's most concentrated collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist painting, from Monet's Rouen Cathedral series to Van Gogh's Starry Night Over the Rhône. The building itself, with its massive glass clock face overlooking the Seine, is half the experience. December weekday mornings are noticeably quieter than any month between May and October.
Shorter queues and thinner galleries compared to summer peak. A cold, rainy December morning is the ideal time to spend 3 hours indoors with the collection.Booking tipBook timed-entry tickets online. Tuesday through Thursday mornings before 10:30 AM are the emptiest windows in December.
Visit the restored Notre-Dame Cathedral
landmarkNotre-Dame reopened in December 2024 after more than 5 years of post-fire restoration. The cleaned interior stonework, rebuilt spire, and new liturgical furniture make it feel like a different building from the pre-2019 version. Visiting in December 2026 still carries a sense of occasion. Entry is free, though the lines can be long.
The cathedral's December 2024 reopening anniversary falls in this month, and the interior is particularly striking during Advent, with seasonal liturgical decorations and candlelight services.Booking tipFree entry but expect queues of 30-60 minutes on weekends. Weekday mornings before 9:30 AM are shorter.
New Year's Eve on the Champs-Élysées
eventHundreds of thousands of people pack the avenue for a countdown and a light-and-sound show projected onto the Arc de Triomphe at midnight. The Métro typically runs extended free service. The atmosphere is cold, loud, and packed. Expect to stand in the crowd for 2-3 hours to get a decent spot. It's not comfortable, but for a certain kind of traveler it's a singular experience.
December 31 only. This is Paris's largest annual public gathering.Booking tipNo tickets. Arrive by 10 PM for a reasonable viewing position. Dress very warmly. Leaving afterward takes 30-60 minutes of shuffling through the crowd toward a Métro entrance.
Hot chocolate at a historic Left Bank café
food and drinkLe Flore, Les Deux Magots, and Café de la Paix all serve their versions of chocolat chaud, typically a thick, dark preparation closer to melted ganache than anything from a packet. Sitting in a heated terrace enclosure with a cup while the December rain taps on the glass outside is one of those small Parisian rituals that earns its reputation. Prices run high at the famous addresses, but the experience is part of the cost.
Hot chocolate is available year-round, but in December the contrast between the cold, dark street and the warm, lit interior makes it feel like a different drink entirely.Booking tipNo reservation needed. Mid-afternoon on a weekday is the most relaxed window.
Ice skating at the Hôtel de Ville
outdoor activityThe Mairie de Paris typically sets up a temporary ice rink on the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville each winter, usually opening in mid-December and running through early March. Entry and skate rental have historically been free or very low cost. The rink sits in front of the illuminated City Hall facade, which is one of the better backdrops for outdoor skating in any European city.
The rink typically opens in mid-December, making this one of the earliest opportunities to skate. The Christmas lights on the Hôtel de Ville are still up.Booking tipNo advance booking. Weekday afternoons are less crowded. Evenings and weekends draw long queues, especially during the school holiday period after December 20.
What to eat in December
On menus now
Huîtres (oysters)
French oyster season peaks December through February. Stands appear at markets across the city, and most brasseries feature platters of Fines de Claire and Gillardeau oysters prominently on their December menus. The traditional réveillon (Christmas Eve) dinner almost always opens with a plateau de fruits de mer.
Raclette
Melted raclette cheese scraped over boiled potatoes, cornichons, and charcuterie becomes the default social meal in Parisian apartments and restaurants from November through February. Several spots in the 5th and 6th arrondissements offer raclette nights, and street-food versions appear at Christmas markets.
Street food peaks
Marrons chauds
Roasted chestnuts sold from wheeled metal braziers on street corners, particularly around Montmartre, the Quartier Latin, and near the Opéra. A paper cone costs a few euros. The smell of them roasting on a cold evening in Place du Tertre is one of those deeply specific December-in-Paris sensory markers.
What to drink
Vin chaud
Mulled wine, typically red with cinnamon, orange peel, clove, and star anise, sold at every Christmas market stall for around 4-6 EUR a cup. The smell of it is half the atmosphere at the Tuileries market. Some stalls also serve cidre chaud, a Norman cider version.
In markets
Foie gras
Whole lobes and prepared terrines fill the display cases at charcuteries and food halls like La Grande Épicerie du Bon Marché starting in late November. December is the peak buying season, with most households serving it at the réveillon dinner on a slice of toasted brioche or pain d'épices. Quality and price vary enormously.
Festival food
Bûche de Noël
The Christmas log cake appears in every pâtisserie window from early December onward. Pierre Hermé, Ladurée, and Dalloyau each release their own annual version, and the designs get competitive. Flavors range from classic chocolate-chestnut to seasonal takes with yuzu, praline, or cassis. Worth ordering 3-5 days ahead from popular shops.
Regular events in December
Illuminations des Champs-ÉlyséesFree
The annual Christmas light installation along the Champs-Élysées, switched on in a ceremony in late November, runs through early January. The 2-kilometre stretch between the Place de la Concorde and the Arc de Triomphe is lined with illuminated trees. The style changes each year but consistently draws evening foot traffic throughout December.
Late November through early JanuaryAdvent concerts at Église de la Madeleine
The neoclassical church near Place de la Concorde hosts a series of choral and orchestral concerts through December, often featuring Mozart's Requiem, Handel's Messiah, and French sacred works. The interior, with its Corinthian columns and painted ceiling, makes for a dramatic concert venue.
Throughout December, typically Thursday through Saturday eveningsSalon Nautique International de Paris
Europe's largest annual boat show takes over the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles in early December, with hundreds of exhibitors showing sailing yachts, motorboats, and marine equipment. Draws a niche but dedicated crowd and has been running since 1962.
Early to mid-December (typically 9 days)Crèches de Noël across Paris churchesFree
Dozens of Parisian churches install elaborate nativity scenes (crèches) through December and into early January. Saint-Sulpice, Saint-Eustache, and Saint-Germain-des-Prés typically have some of the more impressive displays, with life-size carved figures and regional Provençal santons.
Early December through Epiphany (January 6)Patinoire du Grand Palais Éphémère
The temporary structure near the Champ de Mars has hosted a large indoor ice rink in recent winters, typically opening in mid-December. The scale is larger than the Hôtel de Ville rink and it sometimes includes DJ nights and themed evening sessions.
Mid-December through early JanuaryBest places this December
Jardin des Tuileries
park and marketThe Tuileries garden transforms in December with the city's largest Christmas market along its western allées. Even outside market hours, the bare-branched plane trees and the low winter light over the octagonal basin make for a moody, photogenic walk between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde. The Musée de l'Orangerie, with Monet's water lilies, sits at the garden's western corner and makes a natural indoor escape.
1st arrondissementGaleries Lafayette Haussmann
department storeThe Art Nouveau department store is worth visiting in December even if you buy nothing. The massive Christmas tree under the stained-glass dome, the animated window displays along Boulevard Haussmann, and the rooftop terrace (free access, with a direct view toward the Opéra Garnier and Sacré-Cœur) make it one of the most visually dense stops in the city during the holiday season.
9th arrondissement (Opéra)Sacré-Cœur and Place du Tertre
landmark and viewpointThe basilica's steps offer one of the best sunset views in Paris, and in December that sunset happens around 4:45 PM, so you don't need to stay out late to catch it. Place du Tertre, the small square behind the basilica where portrait artists work, is less chaotic in December than in summer. The funicular from Place Suzanne saves the steep climb up the Butte Montmartre on cold legs.
Montmartre (18th arrondissement)Sainte-Chapelle
historic monumentThe 13th-century chapel on the Île de la Cité is one of the finest Gothic interiors in Europe, with 15 stained glass windows rising 15 metres. On a rare clear December afternoon, the low-angle winter sun hits the glass at an angle that summer visitors never see. Evening concerts add candlelight to the experience.
Île de la Cité (1st arrondissement)Rue Mouffetard
market streetOne of the oldest market streets in Paris, in the 5th arrondissement near the Panthéon. The daily open-air market in December features seasonal produce, cheese vendors, and a fromagerie or two where you can pick up a wheel of Mont d'Or, the seasonal raw-milk cheese that's only available from September through March. The street is narrow, sloped, and cobbled, so watch your footing in rain.
Quartier Latin (5th arrondissement)Le Bon Marché and La Grande Épicerie
food hall and department storeThe Left Bank department store is less frenetic than Galeries Lafayette and tends to draw a more local crowd. La Grande Épicerie, the adjoining food hall, is stocked with seasonal products in December. Terrines, foie gras, truffles, marrons glacés, and bûches de Noël from Parisian pâtissiers fill the displays. Worth a visit even if you're only browsing.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés (7th arrondissement)Place des Vosges
historic squareThe oldest planned square in Paris sits in the heart of Le Marais. The arcaded walkways offer some shelter from December drizzle, and the surrounding galleries and cafés tend to be quieter in winter than in the tourist-heavy summer months. Victor Hugo's former apartment on the southeast corner is a small, free museum.
Le Marais (3rd/4th arrondissement)Palais Garnier
performing arts venueThe 19th-century opera house near Boulevard Haussmann runs ballet and opera performances through December. Even without a ticket, the self-guided daytime tour of the building, including the Grand Staircase and the Chagall-painted ceiling in the auditorium, is worth the visit on a cold afternoon. The building's heated, ornate interiors feel particularly welcome after the December chill outside.
Opéra (9th arrondissement)
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Insider tips
The Galeries Lafayette rooftop terrace is free to access and gives you a direct panorama across the Opéra district toward Sacré-Cœur. In December the terrace is far less crowded than in summer, and you can often have it nearly to yourself on a weekday morning. Take the escalators to the top floor inside the store.
If you want oysters without the brasserie markup, look for the écaillers (oyster shuckers) who set up temporary stands outside fishmongers on Rue Montorgueil and at the Marché d'Aligre in the 12th. A dozen Fines de Claire eaten standing on the street with a squeeze of lemon costs roughly half what you'd pay seated at a restaurant.
The Métro runs free extended service on New Year's Eve, typically until around 2:15 AM. But the stations nearest the Champs-Élysées (George V, Charles de Gaulle-Étoile, Franklin D. Roosevelt) get dangerously packed after midnight. Walk 2-3 stations south or east to board from a quieter stop like Alma-Marceau or Saint-Philippe du Roule.
December 26 is not a public holiday in France, unlike in the UK and much of northern Europe. Most shops, museums, and restaurants reopen on the 26th with normal hours, which catches travelers from Boxing Day countries off guard. Use the 26th for things you couldn't do on the 25th.
For a less tourist-heavy Christmas market experience, skip the Tuileries on weekend evenings and try the smaller markets at Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés or in the Marais around the Carreau du Temple. The stalls tend to feature more local artisans and fewer mass-produced imports.
Avoid these mistakes
- Planning a full afternoon of outdoor sightseeing without accounting for the 4:50 PM sunset. By 4 PM the light is already fading, and by 5 PM you're navigating parks and streets in the dark. Front-load your outdoor time before lunch and save museums, churches, and indoor markets for the afternoon.
- Underdressing for the damp cold. The 87% humidity at 4°C (39°F) feels more like -1°C (30°F) on exposed skin, especially along the Seine or on the open esplanades at Trocadéro. Visitors from dry-cold climates routinely underestimate this and spend their first day uncomfortably chilled.
- Booking a restaurant for December 25 without confirming it's open. Most independent restaurants close on Christmas Day, and some close on the 24th as well. Hotel restaurants and a handful of brasseries stay open, but you need to book at least a week ahead for Christmas Day. The same applies to January 1.
- Visiting the Tuileries Christmas market on a Saturday evening between 6 and 9 PM, when it reaches peak crowding. The narrow allées between chalets become difficult to move through, queues for food stalls stretch 15-20 minutes, and the experience feels more like a commute than a market stroll. Weekday early evenings are far more pleasant.
Practical tips for December
Book timed-entry museum tickets online at least a few days ahead, particularly for the Louvre and Musée d'Orsay, where walk-up queues on December weekends can still reach 45 minutes despite the lower tourist volume. Most shops and many restaurants close entirely on December 25, and a smaller number also close on January 1. Check individual restaurant websites for holiday closures before building your dining plan. The January sales (les soldes) legally begin in early January, but some shops start marking down merchandise in the final days of December. If you're visiting over New Year's Eve, the RATP typically extends Métro service and makes it free from early evening through around 2:15 AM on January 1, but confirm the schedule on ratp.fr closer to the date. Dress in proper winter layers for the Christmas markets, which tend to be most atmospheric in the early evening around 5 PM when the lights are on and the dinner crowds haven't arrived yet. Most churches with notable crèche displays or concerts are free to enter during daytime hours. Evening concerts at Sainte-Chapelle and the Madeleine require tickets, and the popular December dates sell out 2-3 weeks ahead. The Paris Museum Pass covers the Louvre, Orsay, Sainte-Chapelle (daytime entry), and about 50 other sites. The 4-day pass tends to pay for itself in 3 visits.
FAQ
Is December a good time to visit Paris?
December is a solid time to visit if you're specifically drawn to the holiday atmosphere and don't mind cold, short days. The Christmas markets, window displays, and holiday dining are genuinely appealing, and museum queues are shorter than in summer. It's not the best month for outdoor sightseeing or photography, though. The days are short (roughly 8 hours of light), the skies are overcast more often than not, and the damp cold at 87% humidity takes adjustment. If your priority is walking neighborhoods and sitting on café terraces, you'll be happier in May, June, September, or October.
What is the weather like in Paris in December?
Cold and damp. The average high is 8.6°C (47°F) and the average low is 3.8°C (39°F), with about 69mm of rain spread across 11 days. The humidity averages 87%, which makes the cold feel more penetrating than the numbers suggest. Snow is uncommon in central Paris but possible. Overcast skies dominate, and clear, sunny December days are the exception rather than the rule. Sunset falls around 4:50 PM, so outdoor plans need to be front-loaded into the morning and early afternoon.
Is Paris crowded in December?
It's busy but not at summer peak levels. The Christmas markets and shopping districts (Boulevard Haussmann, Le Marais, Champs-Élysées) draw significant crowds, especially on weekends and during the school holiday period after December 20. The major museums are noticeably less crowded on weekday mornings than in June through September. New Year's Eve on the Champs-Élysées draws hundreds of thousands of people and is extremely packed. The week between Christmas and New Year's is the busiest stretch of the month overall.
Does it snow in Paris in December?
Rarely. Paris might see 1 or 2 days of snowfall in a typical December, and accumulation in central arrondissements is uncommon. When it does snow, it tends to melt quickly on city streets and sidewalks. The surrounding Île-de-France suburbs may hold snow slightly longer. Don't plan a trip around seeing snowy Paris. If it happens, it's a bonus.
What should I wear in Paris in December?
Layer for a range of about 0°C to 10°C (32°F to 50°F). A warm, windproof coat is the foundation. Underneath, a thermal or merino base layer, a wool sweater, and a scarf handle the outdoor-to-indoor temperature swings. Waterproof boots with good traction are important for wet cobblestones. Gloves and a hat become necessary by late afternoon and for evening market visits. Parisians tend to dress in dark, tailored layers in winter. You won't look out of place in a well-fitted dark coat, boots, and a scarf.
Things to Do in Paris in December
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Free cancellation Loire Valley Castles Day Trip from Paris with Complementary Wine
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Free cancellation Paris Top Sights Half Day Walking Tour with a Fun Guide
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