Seville for foodies

Best restaurants

Seville eats late, eats twice, and does not much care what you think of the schedule. The city's dining rooms open at 13:00 or later for lunch and often not again until 20:00 or 20:30 for dinner, a rhythm that catches every first-time visitor off guard and rewards anyone who learns it. What follows is a working editor's list of 12 rooms across the historic core and the barrios that ring it, from a century-old tavern near the old city gates to a ramen counter that opened when the neighbourhood finally admitted it wanted one. Andalusian tapas and Sevillian fish cookery hold the centre, with Italian rooms, a Japanese counter, a paella specialist and a bakery-turned-restaurant on the edges. None of these are secrets; several sit on streets a guidebook could name. The point of the list is not novelty. The point is to say which door to open at which hour, and why a visitor with one dinner in Seville should spend it here rather than three streets away at a room chasing the same tourist euro with half the conviction.