What's a good 3-day itinerary for Cozumel?

Cozumel is a 48-km-long island where 90% of the restaurants, hotels, and pharmacies sit in one town. San Miguel lines the west coast for about 2 km, and that compression works in your favor on day one. Start at Museo de la Isla de Cozumel around 9 AM, where the second-floor terrace opens to a breeze off the channel and the exhibits run through the island's Maya and colonial history in under an hour. Walk south along the Malecón to the main plaza by 10:30. Salt air mixes with the smell of marquesitas from the seawall carts, those crispy rolled crepes filled with Edam cheese and Nutella for about 30 pesos. Lunch at Guido's on Avenida Rafael Melgar by noon, where the wood-fired pizza runs 180-260 MXN and the courtyard has shade. Spend the afternoon snorkeling the house reef at Money Bar Beach Club, about 3 km south of town. The reef sits close enough to shore that you can swim straight to it from the sand. Sunset from the Malecón seawall with a michelada from one of the tiendas along Calle 3 Sur. About 5 km of walking on day one.

Day two needs wheels. Rent a scooter from one of the shops on Calle 5 for about 500-600 MXN per day, or a Jeep for 1,200-1,500 MXN. Head south on the coastal road toward Arrecifes de Cozumel National Park, established in 1996 to protect 120 square kilometers of reef. Stop at Playa Palancar around 9 AM. The water tends to be 28-29°C and visibility often reaches 30 meters on calm days. Boat tours to the outer reef wall leave from the Palancar beach clubs and run about 600-800 MXN per person with gear included. Continue south to Punta Sur Eco Beach Park by 1 PM. Admission is around 575 MXN, roughly $34 at 17 pesos per dollar. The Celarain lighthouse sits at the island's southern tip, and a small Maya shrine still stands nearby. You'll hear wind and surf more than anything at Punta Sur. The lagoon behind the beach has crocodiles, and there is an observation tower to spot them from. Drive back north along the same west-coast road. Stop at El Cid La Ceiba for a late swim. About 50 km by scooter and 3 km on foot.

The interior of Cozumel is low scrubby jungle, hot and still. San Gervasio opens at 8 AM, about 15 km east of San Miguel via the transversal road. Admission is around 269 MXN. The site was a pilgrimage center for Ixchel, the Maya goddess of fertility, and women traveled here from across the Yucatán by canoe. The structures are smaller than Tulum or Chichén Itzá, but the forest setting feels private. You'll likely hear parrots and smell damp limestone underfoot. Plan about 90 minutes. From San Gervasio, continue east to the windward coast. This is where Cozumel stops being a cruise-ship island. The east side faces open Caribbean, the surf pounds the rocky shore, and swimming is dangerous at most points. Chen Rio is the exception. A natural rock formation creates a protected pool where you can sit in chest-deep water while waves break over the outer wall. The sand is coarse, almost gravelly. Eat fried fish with garlic at the beachfront restaurant for about 200-250 MXN, served with warm tortillas and a lime wedge. Drive south to El Mirador for the view, then back west to San Miguel. About 50 km of driving and 2 km on foot.

A few things that trip people up. The ferry from Playa del Carmen takes about 45 minutes and costs roughly 250 MXN each way with Ultramar or Winjet. If you're flying into Cancún International, budget 90 minutes for the ADO bus to Playa del Carmen's ferry terminal, then the crossing on top. Cozumel has its own airport with direct flights from Dallas, Houston, and Miami, which saves half a day. Solo travelers score well here at 8.2 out of 10 (see the TTDI Solo-Safety Index). Families tend to like the calm west-coast beaches, and the island rates 7.8 out of 10 for family friendliness (see the TTDI Family-Friendliness Index). Tap water is not drinkable. Buy garrafones from any OXXO for about 35-45 MXN. Reef-safe sunscreen is required at the marine parks, and rangers will check the label. Mind you, the heat is real. August temperatures sit around 32-33°C with humidity near 60%, so afternoon showers are normal and welcome.