September in Goa is monsoon, full stop. That is the single most important thing to understand before you book. Rain falls on 27 of the 30 days, humidity sits at a thick 89%, and the coastline that draws 8 million annual visitors looks nothing like the postcard. Most beach shacks along Calangute and Anjuna have been dismantled since June. Lifeguard stations are closed, red flags line the shore, and the Arabian Sea runs brown with churned sediment and a current that pulls hard. The Goa you see on Instagram, the one with sundowners at Curlies and trance parties at Hilltop, does not exist in September.
That said, September has one genuine draw that no dry-season month can match. Ganesh Chaturthi, the 10-day festival honouring Lord Ganesha, typically falls in late August or September. In Goa, it is not a token celebration. Families commission elaborate clay idols months in advance, neighbourhood pandals compete for the most ornate displays, and the immersion processions on Anant Chaturdashi fill the streets of Panaji and Margao with thousands of people, drumming troupes, and clouds of gulal. If you time your visit for the final 3 days of Chaturthi, you will see a side of Goa that the peak-season crowd never does.
The landscape itself is the other quiet reward. Goa in September is almost absurdly green. The Western Ghats behind the coast are swollen with waterfalls, Dudhsagar Falls runs at near-peak volume, and the laterite plateaus in Chorla Ghat look closer to Scotland than to a beach state. Temperatures hover around 28°C (82°F) during the day and drop to a mild 24°C (76°F) at night. It is not hot. It is not cold. It is wet, relentlessly wet, and whether that appeals to you depends entirely on what kind of traveller you are.
Why visit in September
- Ganesh Chaturthi transforms the state for 10 days with processions, pandals, and immersion ceremonies that peak-season visitors never witness. In Panaji's Mala and Fontainhas neighbourhoods, the celebrations feel intimate and community-driven.
- Hotel rates drop 50-70% below December peak pricing. A room that runs 8,000-12,000 INR per night in January might go for 2,000-3,500 INR in September, and upgrades come easily because occupancy is often below 20%.
- The Western Ghats are at their most dramatic. Dudhsagar Falls runs at near-full volume after 4 months of rain, and the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary around it is dense with green canopy and active birdlife.
- Spice plantations in Ponda taluka, like Sahakari Spice Farm and Tropical Spice Plantation, are at their most fragrant and photogenic during monsoon, with fresh cardamom, pepper, and turmeric on the vine.
- The fishing ban lifts in August, so by September fresh catch returns to the Mapusa Friday Market and fish stalls in Margao's Municipal Market. Kingfish, pomfret, and mackerel are back on menus after the monsoon hiatus.
Worth knowing
- Rain falls on roughly 27 of the 30 days, totalling about 355mm (14 inches) for the month. It is not a light drizzle. Downpours can last 2-4 hours, and the roads between Anjuna and Vagator flood regularly, turning a 15-minute drive into 45 minutes.
- The Arabian Sea is rough and unsafe for swimming at nearly every beach. Rip currents are strong, visibility is zero, and lifeguard services at Baga, Calangute, and Candolim are suspended until October. Water sports are shut down entirely.
- An estimated 70-80% of beach shacks, clubs, and tourist-facing restaurants close from June through September. Tito's Lane in Baga is largely shuttered. Restaurants that remain open in Panaji and Assagao operate on reduced hours.
- Humidity at 89% makes even mild 28°C air feel heavy and clinging. Clothes take days to dry on a line, electronics fog up when you step outside from air conditioning, and mould appears on leather goods left in a wardrobe for 48 hours.
Best for
Think twice if
Deep monsoon. September averages 28°C (82°F) highs and 24°C (76°F) lows, with 355mm of rainfall spread across roughly 27 rainy days. Humidity holds steady near 89%. The rain tends to arrive in heavy bursts rather than a constant drizzle. You might get 2-3 hours of strong sun in the morning, followed by a grey sky and a downpour that lasts through the afternoon. Nights feel warm and damp. Wind picks up along the coast, and the sea remains rough throughout the month. Compared to the June-July peak of monsoon (which dumps 700-1,000mm), September is lighter, but still firmly in the wet season. Temperatures are mild by Indian standards, rarely touching 30°C, which at least means you are not fighting heat on top of humidity.
Seasonal caution
- The Arabian Sea has strong rip currents and high surf throughout September. Swimming is dangerous at all open beaches, and lifeguard stations at Calangute, Baga, and Candolim are not operational. Drownings spike during monsoon months.
- Heavy downpours cause flash flooding on low-lying roads, particularly the NH-66 stretch near Zuari Bridge and inland roads around Ponda. If you are renting a scooter, standing water hides potholes deep enough to throw a rider.
- Mosquito activity rises sharply with stagnant water. September falls within the dengue and malaria risk window for Goa. Use DEET-based repellent, especially between 4pm and 8pm.
- Occasional cyclonic weather systems in the Arabian Sea can intensify rainfall for 2-3 consecutive days and trigger landslide warnings in the Western Ghats. Check India Meteorological Department alerts before planning any Ghat treks.
Year-round climate
Averages from the last 5 years.
| Month | Avg high (°C) | Avg low (°C) | Rainfall (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 31 | 21 | 13 |
| Feb | 32 | 21 | 0 |
| Mar | 33 | 24 | 3 |
| Apr | 33 | 26 | 9 |
| May | 32 | 27 | 217 |
| Jun | 29 | 25 | 706 |
| Jul | 27 | 25 | 1067 |
| Aug | 28 | 25 | 443 |
| Sep | 28 | 24 | 355 |
| Oct | 30 | 24 | 198 |
| Nov | 32 | 23 | 72 |
| Dec | 32 | 22 | 21 |
Headline events
Ganesh Chaturthi
Late August to mid-September (dates shift yearly with the Hindu lunar calendar, lasting 10 days from Chaturthi to Anant Chaturdashi)
Goa's most intensely celebrated Hindu festival. For 10 days, neighbourhoods across the state erect elaborate pandals housing clay Ganesha idols, some towering 4-5 metres. The final day, Anant Chaturdashi, brings massive immersion processions through the streets of Panaji, Margao, Vasco da Gama, and Mapusa, with drumming groups, dancing, and clouds of coloured powder. In Panaji, the procession along the Mandovi riverfront draws tens of thousands. The festival is deeply community-driven in Goa. Families invite neighbours for modak and aarti, and pandal-hopping is a nightly social activity.
Best things to do in September
Pandal-hopping during Ganesh Chaturthi
culturalNeighbourhood pandals across Panaji, Margao, and Mapusa display elaborately decorated Ganesha idols, many themed around social or environmental messages. Walking between pandals in Panaji's Mala, Altinho, and Fontainhas areas takes 2-3 hours on foot. Each pandal offers prasad (blessed food), and the atmosphere at night, with lights, loudspeakers, and drumming, feels more like a street carnival than a religious observance.
Ganesh Chaturthi typically falls in September. The pandals are erected only for the 10-day festival period.Booking tipNo booking needed. Pandals are open to all visitors regardless of religion. Wear modest clothing and remove shoes before entering.
Dudhsagar Falls trek
natureThe 310-metre (1,017 ft) four-tiered waterfall on the Goa-Karnataka border runs at near-peak flow in September, turning the canyon into a wall of white water visible from kilometres away. The trek starts from Castle Rock or Kulem station on the South Western Railway. The train ride from Kulem through tunnels cut into the Ghats is itself worth the trip. At the base pool, the mist from the falls soaks you within 30 metres.
September rainfall keeps the falls at high volume after the June-August peak. By November, flow drops noticeably. The monsoon green along the trail is at its densest.Booking tipJeep access from Kulem requires a permit from the Forest Department. Book through registered operators in Mollem. Groups are capped, and weekends fill up even in monsoon. Go on a weekday.
Spice plantation tour in Ponda
food and natureThe spice farms around Ponda taluka, about 30km from Panaji, grow pepper, cardamom, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, and turmeric. During monsoon, the plants are at their most productive. You walk through rows of pepper vines heavy with green berries, pull fresh turmeric from the soil, and crush cardamom pods between your fingers. Sahakari Spice Farm and Tropical Spice Plantation both run guided walks followed by a Goan lunch.
September's rainfall and humidity push the spice plants into peak growth. Pepper vines fruit in monsoon, and turmeric leaves (used for patholi) are harvested now. Dry-season visits see dormant plants.Booking tipCall ahead. Some farms reduce tour frequency in monsoon. Morning tours (before 11am) tend to dodge the heaviest afternoon rain.
Explore Fontainhas Latin Quarter on foot
culture and walkingPanaji's old Portuguese quarter, Fontainhas, has narrow lanes lined with colour-washed houses in ochre, blue, and green, wrought-iron balconies, and tiled roofs. In monsoon, the colours pop against the grey sky, and the streets are empty of the tour groups that pack them in December. The Chapel of St. Sebastian sits at the heart of the quarter. Several art galleries and small cafes stay open year-round.
Low tourist numbers mean you can photograph the lanes without crowds. The rain-slicked streets and overcast light give the Portuguese-era architecture a moodier, more photogenic quality than the flat midday sun of peak season.Birdwatching at Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary
natureNamed after the ornithologist Salim Ali, this mangrove sanctuary on Chorao Island in the Mandovi River estuary covers about 1.8 sq km. September brings migratory waders and resident kingfishers, purple herons, and white-bellied sea eagles. The boardwalk through the mangroves is quiet in monsoon. You reach Chorao by a short ferry from Ribandar, 4km east of Panaji.
Early migratory species begin arriving in September, overlapping with resident breeding populations. The mangroves are fully flooded, concentrating birds along visible perches and the boardwalk edges.Booking tipBring binoculars. Entry fee is nominal (about 20 INR for Indian visitors, 100 INR for foreigners as of recent years). Go at dawn for the best sightings.
Visit the Basilica of Bom Jesus and Se Cathedral in Old Goa
heritageThe UNESCO-listed Basilica of Bom Jesus (1605) holds the remains of St. Francis Xavier in a silver casket. Se Cathedral, the largest church in Asia when it was built, stands across the square with a bell tower visible from the Mandovi River. Old Goa has about 8 churches and chapels within walking distance. The complex is 10km east of Panaji.
September's low visitor numbers mean you can spend 30-40 minutes inside the Basilica without the crush of December pilgrimage season. The interiors are cool and dry, a welcome break from the humidity outside.Booking tipFree entry. Open daily. Avoid Sunday mornings when local congregations attend Mass.
Monsoon drive through Chorla Ghat
scenic driveChorla Ghat sits at the tri-junction of Goa, Karnataka, and Maharashtra, about 70km northeast of Panaji. The road climbs through dense forest, past small waterfalls that appear only during monsoon, with visibility dropping in and out of low cloud. The ghat itself is a high-altitude plateau with grasslands and shola forest patches. The drive takes about 2 hours each way from Panaji.
The seasonal waterfalls along the ghat road are active only from June to October. September offers heavy greenery with slightly less rainfall intensity than July, making the drive somewhat safer while keeping the waterfalls at full flow.Booking tipRent a car with a driver rather than a scooter. The road has sharp turns, limited guardrails, and reduced visibility in rain. A self-drive car with good tyres is the minimum.
Attend the Anant Chaturdashi immersion procession
cultural festivalThe final day of Ganesh Chaturthi, Anant Chaturdashi, is when Ganesha idols are carried to the river or sea for immersion. In Panaji, the procession moves along the Mandovi riverfront and Dayanand Bandodkar Marg. In Margao, it runs through the town centre. The energy peaks after dark, with drumming troupes (dhol-tasha pathaks), dancing, and fireworks. The Panaji immersion at the Mandovi is the largest gathering.
Anant Chaturdashi falls on the 10th day of Ganesh Chaturthi. It only happens once a year, and in many years, it lands in September.Booking tipPosition yourself along the Mandovi riverfront by 5pm for a good vantage point. The procession can run past midnight. Bring a waterproof phone case.
What to eat in September
On menus now
Patholi
Rice dumplings with a sweet coconut filling, steamed inside fresh turmeric leaves that tint the wrapper pale yellow and lend a faint earthy perfume. This is a monsoon-specific dish in Goa. The turmeric leaves are only available fresh during the rainy months, so patholi disappears from tables by November. Look for it at local sweet shops in Mapusa and Margao.
Sorak Curry
A thin, watery coconut curry without fish or meat, invented as a monsoon staple when fresh catch was scarce during the fishing ban. Now a comfort dish. It is made with tamarind, kokum, and a light coconut base, poured over plain rice. Tastes sharper and more sour than a typical Goan curry. Still common in homes and small eateries in Ponda and Margao during September.
What to drink
Kokum Sherbet
A tart, deep-purple drink made from dried kokum fruit (Garcinia indica) simmered with sugar, cumin, and black salt. Kokum grows wild across Goa's Western Ghats, and monsoon is when families process the harvest into syrups and agals (sun-dried rinds). The sherbet is served cold and works as a digestive. You will find it at nearly every Goan restaurant that stays open through monsoon.
In markets
Fresh Kingfish (Vison)
September marks the return of fresh kingfish to Goan markets after the June-July fishing ban. Locals call it vison in Konkani. The first catches of the season appear grilled with recheado masala at restaurants in Panaji and at the fish stalls near Mapusa Friday Market. The flesh is firm and oily after months of open-water feeding.
Festival food
Modak
Steamed or fried sweet dumplings filled with fresh coconut and jaggery, prepared specifically for Ganesh Chaturthi. Every Goan Hindu household makes them during the festival, and bakeries in Panaji and Margao sell them by the kilo. The steamed version (ukdiche modak) has a rice-flour shell with a texture closer to mochi than pastry.
Khatkhate
A thick mixed-vegetable stew simmered with freshly ground coconut and roasted spices, traditionally cooked for Ganesh Chaturthi and other Goan Hindu festivals. It uses 5-7 monsoon vegetables including yam, raw banana, drumstick, and ash gourd. Each family has a slightly different spice ratio. It is mild, almost comfort-food in texture, and served with rice.
Regular events in September
Goa Revolution DayFree
State holiday on September 17 commemorating the 1946 uprising against Portuguese rule, led by Ram Manohar Lohia. Government offices and some businesses close. A flag-hoisting ceremony takes place at the Azad Maidan in Panaji, followed by cultural programmes. Local schools hold patriotic events throughout the week.
September 17 (fixed date)Mapusa Friday Market (monsoon schedule)Free
Goa's most authentic weekly market continues through monsoon, though on a reduced scale. Vendors sell fresh produce, spices, local sausages (chouriço), pickles, and household goods. The covered sections stay dry. In September, you will find monsoon-specific items like fresh turmeric leaves, raw jackfruit, and newly harvested kokum. The market is in the centre of Mapusa town.
Every Friday, morning through early afternoonBonderam Festival (if falling in September)Free
A flag festival held on Divar Island in the Mandovi River, featuring float parades, live music, and folk competitions. Traditionally held on the fourth Saturday of August, it sometimes extends into early September depending on the calendar. The ferry ride from Old Goa to Divar is part of the experience. Attendance is mostly local Goans, with very few tourists.
Fourth Saturday of August (occasionally early September)Best places this September
Fontainhas Latin Quarter
historic neighbourhoodPanaji's old Portuguese neighbourhood with narrow cobbled lanes, colourful houses, the Chapel of St. Sebastian, and small galleries. In September, the streets are nearly empty of tourists, and the rain-washed facades photograph beautifully under grey monsoon skies. Several cafes and a few guesthouses here stay open year-round.
PanajiDudhsagar Falls
waterfallGoa's tallest waterfall at 310 metres (1,017 ft) on the Mandovi River, near the Karnataka border inside Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary. September flow is heavy, and the mist cloud at the base can be felt from 100 metres away. Access via jeep from Kulem or by train along the South Western Railway.
Sanguem talukaBasilica of Bom Jesus
heritage siteUNESCO World Heritage church in Old Goa, built in 1605, holding the relics of St. Francis Xavier. The Baroque interior with gilded altarpiece is striking in any season, but September's empty halls let you study the details in peace. Adjacent museums and the Gallery of Modern Art are good rain-day options.
Old GoaSalim Ali Bird Sanctuary, Chorao Island
nature reserveA 1.8 sq km mangrove wetland sanctuary on an island in the Mandovi estuary. The boardwalk trail runs about 2km through the mangroves. September brings early migrants alongside breeding residents. Reach it by a 5-minute ferry from Ribandar.
Chorao IslandSahakari Spice Farm
agritourismA working spice plantation near Ponda, about 30km from Panaji, growing pepper, vanilla, cardamom, cinnamon, and nutmeg. The guided walk ends with a traditional Goan lunch served on banana leaves. In monsoon, the plantation is lush, and you can see pepper berries and turmeric plants at their most productive stage.
PondaTambdi Surla Mahadeva Temple
ancient templeA 12th-century Kadamba-era Shiva temple, the oldest surviving temple in Goa, set deep in the forest near Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary. Built from basalt, it sits beside a stream that runs high in September. The carved stone panels showing Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma are remarkably intact. The 45-minute drive from Mollem through dense forest is itself a monsoon highlight.
Sanguem talukaAzad Maidan, Panaji
public squareThe central public square in Panaji where Goa Revolution Day ceremonies are held on September 17. Surrounded by government buildings, the Panaji Church (Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception), and old commercial streets. A good starting point for a walking tour of the city centre.
PanajiChapora Fort
fort and viewpointA laterite fort above Vagator beach, built by the Portuguese in 1617. The walls are crumbling but the views north toward Pernem and south toward Anjuna are wide. In September, the hilltop is carpeted in green moss, and you will likely have the site to yourself. The climb is short but the path gets slippery in rain.
Vagator
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Insider tips
The restaurants that stay open in Assagao and Siolim during monsoon are often the ones run by locals year-round, not the seasonal tourist operations. Places like the small family-run eateries along the Siolim-Chapora road serve better fish thali in September than most beach shacks do in December, and at half the price.
If Ganesh Chaturthi falls during your visit, ask your hotel staff or landlord which neighbourhood pandals they recommend. The biggest pandals in Panaji's Mala area get covered by the press, but the smaller residential ones in Altinho and St. Inez often have more elaborate decorations and fewer crowds. Locals are typically happy to invite visitors in for darshan and prasad.
Rent a car, not a scooter. September's rain-filled potholes are invisible under standing water, and a front-wheel hit at 40 km/h on a scooter can throw you. Taxi apps work in Panaji and Margao, but for day trips to Ponda or Dudhsagar, a hired car with driver costs about 1,500-2,500 INR for a full day in the off-season.
The ferry from Ribandar to Chorao Island (for the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary) runs every 15-20 minutes and costs almost nothing. It is one of several free or near-free river ferries operated by the state. The Panaji-to-Betim ferry across the Mandovi is another, and riding it at dusk with rain clouds over the river is one of September's quiet pleasures.
Pack a power strip with a surge protector. Monsoon storms cause frequent brief power cuts in Goa, especially in North Goa's beach villages. Most mid-range hotels have backup generators, but budget guesthouses might not. A surge protector keeps your electronics safe when power flickers back on.
Avoid these mistakes
- Booking a beach-focused itinerary. First-time visitors sometimes assume September monsoon means occasional showers between beach sessions. It does not. The sea is unsafe, beach shacks are dismantled, and sunbathing days are close to zero. If your trip depends on beach time, September is the wrong month.
- Riding a rented scooter without rain experience. Goa's rental scooter culture is strong, and September prices are low, which tempts visitors. But flooded roads hide potholes deep enough to bend a wheel rim, laterite mud on curves has no grip, and visibility drops to 20 metres in heavy downpours. Several monsoon injuries each year involve tourist scooter riders.
- Skipping Ganesh Chaturthi because it seems too religious. The festival is cultural and communal, not exclusively devotional. Non-Hindus are welcome at pandals and processions. Missing it because you assumed it was not for you means missing the single most energetic thing happening in Goa all September.
- Packing only one pair of shoes. Whatever shoes you wear on day one will be soaked by day two, and they will not dry overnight in 89% humidity. Bring at least 2 pairs of footwear, ideally both water-friendly, and alternate them daily.
Practical tips for September
Most beach shacks and seasonal restaurants along Calangute, Baga, Anjuna, and Vagator are closed from June through September. Concentrate your dining in Panaji, Margao, Assagao, and Siolim, where year-round restaurants stay open. Book accommodation in Panaji or South Goa rather than the North Goa beach belt, since the infrastructure there functions year-round and you will be closer to working restaurants, pharmacies, and ATMs.
If renting a car, book through an established Panaji-based agency rather than a beach-village operator who may be closed for the season. Goa Miles, the state-backed taxi app, works in Panaji and Margao but coverage thins in rural areas.
Monday is a common closing day for museums, including the Archaeological Museum in Old Goa. Check before making the trip.
For Dudhsagar Falls, permits and jeep bookings are managed at Kulem. Go on a weekday to avoid the weekend backlog. The trek route may be restricted in very heavy rain.
Pharmacies in Panaji (18th June Road) and Margao stock anti-fungal cream, rehydration salts, and mosquito repellent. Do not wait until a remote village to look for these.
Dress modestly at temples and churches. Shorts and sleeveless tops are fine on the street, but Goa's religious sites expect covered shoulders and knees. Keep a scarf handy.
ATMs in North Goa beach villages sometimes run out of cash in off-season because they are restocked less frequently. Carry enough cash for 2-3 days if you are staying outside Panaji or Margao. UPI payments are widely accepted at restaurants and shops.
FAQ
Is September a good time to visit Goa?
For a typical beach holiday, no. September is deep monsoon with rain on 27 of 30 days, 89% humidity, closed beach shacks, and an Arabian Sea too rough for swimming. Most of the tourist infrastructure along the North Goa coast shuts down from June through September. That said, if you want to experience Ganesh Chaturthi (which often falls in September), see Goa at its greenest, and pay 50-70% less for hotels, it has a specific appeal. It is a month for cultural travellers and budget-conscious visitors who do not need the beach.
What is the weather like in Goa in September?
Expect average highs around 28°C (82°F) and lows near 24°C (76°F), so the temperature itself is mild. The challenge is rainfall and humidity. September averages 355mm of rain across roughly 27 rainy days, with humidity at 89%. Rain typically comes in heavy afternoon and evening bursts rather than all-day drizzle. Mornings may have 2-3 hours of sunshine before clouds build. Wind picks up along the coast. It is not unbearably hot, but the constant moisture makes the air feel heavier than the temperature alone suggests.
Is Goa crowded in September?
No. September is one of the emptiest months in Goa. Domestic tourism drops sharply during monsoon, and international visitors are rare. Hotel occupancy in the beach belt falls below 20% at many properties. You can walk through Fontainhas, Old Goa's churches, or Chapora Fort almost alone. The only crowds you will encounter are during Ganesh Chaturthi processions, which is a different kind of crowd, local and festive, not tourist congestion.
Can I swim in the sea in Goa in September?
You should not. The Arabian Sea off Goa is rough throughout September, with strong rip currents and poor visibility. Lifeguard stations at major beaches like Calangute, Baga, and Candolim are not operational during monsoon. Red flags are posted across most beaches. Water sports (parasailing, jet skiing, banana boats) are completely suspended. Some hotels have swimming pools, which is the safest option if you want to swim.
Are restaurants and shops open in Goa during September?
In Panaji, Margao, Mapusa, and inland towns, most restaurants and shops operate normally year-round. The closures are concentrated in the beach tourism belt. Along Calangute, Baga, Anjuna, and Vagator, an estimated 70-80% of beach shacks, bars, and tourist-oriented restaurants close from June through September. Tito's Lane in Baga is largely shuttered. Saturday Night Markets do not run. If you base yourself in Panaji or South Goa, you will have plenty of dining options. If you stay on an empty North Goa beach strip, your choices shrink to a handful of year-round spots.
Things to Do in Goa in September
Free cancellation Heritage of Old Goa and Fontainhas
Day trip — free cancellation.
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Free cancellation The Monsoon Trek at Tambdi Surla
Day trip — free cancellation.
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Free cancellation Glimpses Of Goa: Churches,Temple and Spice Plantation
Day trip — 7 hours, free cancellation.
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Free cancellation CULTURAL & HISTORIC DAY TOUR ATTRACTIONS - Churches, Temples & Spice Plantation
Day trip — free cancellation.
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