November in Edinburgh is dark. That is the single most important thing to understand before booking. By mid-month, the sun sets before 4pm, and you might get barely seven hours of usable daylight. Temperatures hover around 10°C (49°F) during the day and drop to about 5°C (41°F) at night — not brutal by northern European standards, but the damp Scottish wind has a way of cutting through layers that dry cold simply does not. Rain comes in sideways, sometimes as a persistent mist that locals call haar when it rolls off the Firth of Forth, sometimes as sharp bursts that chase you into the nearest pub. It sounds grim, and honestly, if your ideal holiday involves eating outdoors or strolling parks in sunshine, it probably is.
That said, there is a real case for November. The summer crowds are months gone. The Royal Mile feels like an actual street again, not a theme-park corridor. Hotel prices drop to some of the lowest of the year, and you can walk into restaurants in Stockbridge or Leith that would need bookings weeks ahead in August. Edinburgh's Christmas market typically opens in the final week of November, transforming East Princes Street Gardens into a sprawl of wooden stalls and fairground rides, and St Andrew's Day on November 30th brings a torchlight procession and ceilidh dancing that feels genuinely communal rather than performed for tourists. The city leans into its grey moods in November — the castle looms over Grassmarket in early-setting fog, whisky bars in the Old Town glow amber through their windows, and there is a particular satisfaction in eating a bowl of Cullen skink somewhere warm while rain hammers the cobblestones outside.
So is it a good time to visit? It depends entirely on what you are looking for. If you want Edinburgh at its most atmospheric, most affordable, and most local-feeling — with the trade-off of short days, cold rain, and limited outdoor comfort — November might suit you better than you would expect. If you want the Edinburgh of postcards and sunny castle views, wait for May or June.
Why visit in November
- Hotel rates drop to near-annual lows — expect to pay 30-50% less than August peak prices, even in central Old Town and New Town properties
- Edinburgh's Christmas market opens late November, and the first few days are far less crowded than December weekends — you get the full experience without the queues
- The short days and low-hanging clouds create a moody, photogenic atmosphere that is arguably more characterful than summer sunshine — the castle lit against a dark 3:30pm sky is striking
- Cultural venues like the National Museum of Scotland, Scottish National Gallery, and the Scotch Whisky Experience are uncrowded, and you can take your time without being shuffled through
- St Andrew's Day on November 30th brings a genuine national celebration with free events, live music, and ceilidh dancing — a side of Scottish culture most summer tourists never see
Worth knowing
- Daylight is brutally short — sunrise around 7:45am, sunset by 3:50pm by late November, giving you roughly eight hours of light and less if it is overcast, which it usually is
- Rain falls on roughly 13 days of the month and often arrives as a fine, persistent drizzle driven by wind rather than short downpours you can wait out
- Wind chill is the real enemy — the thermometer may read 10°C but an exposed walk up Calton Hill or across the Forth bridges can feel several degrees colder, especially with wet skin
- Some seasonal attractions and outdoor tour operators scale back or close entirely after October, limiting options for things like boat trips, open-top bus comfort, and certain garden walks
Best for
Think twice if
November in Edinburgh tends to feel colder than the numbers suggest. Daytime highs average 9.7°C (49°F) and overnight lows sit around 5.2°C (41°F), but the 83% humidity and frequent coastal wind create a damp chill that seeps through clothing. Expect rain on roughly 13 of the month's 30 days — about 89mm total — though it often arrives as drizzle or mist rather than downpours. Fog off the Firth of Forth can settle over the city in the mornings, sometimes clearing by midday, sometimes lingering. Occasional frost is possible toward month's end, and the odd night dips below freezing. Truly sunny days are rare — maybe three or four if you are lucky — so plan your outdoor time around any break in the clouds rather than expecting scheduled clear spells.
Seasonal caution
- Wind chill regularly makes the felt temperature 3-5°C below what the thermometer reads, especially on exposed high ground like Arthur's Seat, Calton Hill, and the castle esplanade — dress for 4-5°C even when the forecast says 10°C
- Occasional frost and ice on cobblestones appears in late November, particularly on the steep closes off the Royal Mile and along the Water of Leith walkway — rubber-soled shoes with good grip are worth the suitcase space
Year-round climate
Averages from the last 5 years.
| Month | Avg high (°C) | Avg low (°C) | Rainfall (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 6 | 2 | 74 |
| Feb | 8 | 3 | 74 |
| Mar | 10 | 4 | 69 |
| Apr | 11 | 4 | 60 |
| May | 15 | 8 | 91 |
| Jun | 18 | 11 | 58 |
| Jul | 19 | 13 | 91 |
| Aug | 19 | 12 | 70 |
| Sep | 17 | 11 | 86 |
| Oct | 13 | 9 | 123 |
| Nov | 10 | 5 | 89 |
| Dec | 8 | 4 | 108 |
Headline events
Edinburgh's Christmas
Late November (usually the third or fourth weekend) through early January
The city's major winter festival opens in late November, filling East Princes Street Gardens with a Christmas market, fairground rides, an ice rink, and a large observation wheel. The opening weekend draws locals and early-season visitors, and the market stalls sell Scottish crafts, hot food, and mulled wine. It grows considerably through December, but the late-November launch has its own appeal — less packed, still fresh-feeling, with the castle lit up behind the stalls.
St Andrew's Day
November 30
Scotland's national day on November 30th brings a torchlight procession, ceilidh dancing, free concerts, and events across the city. It is both a cultural celebration and an official bank holiday in Scotland, and Edinburgh typically hosts the flagship festivities. The atmosphere is local and communal rather than tourist-oriented — Scots celebrating their patron saint with traditional music, dancing, and a fair amount of whisky. Some museums and galleries offer free entry for the day.
Best things to do in November
Whisky tasting in Old Town and Leith distilleries
food and drinkEdinburgh has a growing number of whisky bars and tasting rooms, from the well-established Scotch Whisky Experience on the Royal Mile to smaller independent bars in the Old Town's closes and along Leith's waterfront. November's cold and early dark make an afternoon or evening tasting session feel less like tourism and more like survival strategy. The warmth of the room, the smell of malt and oak, and the slow pace of a guided flight suit the season perfectly.
Short, cold days make indoor experiences more appealing, and whisky bars are far less crowded than in summer — you can actually have a conversation with the bartender and learn somethingBooking tipThe Scotch Whisky Experience books up on weekends even in low season — reserve online at least a few days ahead for premium tastings
Explore the National Museum of Scotland
cultureThis enormous museum on Chambers Street covers everything from Scottish history and natural science to design and technology, all under one roof. The rooftop terrace offers a panoramic view of the city skyline that is worth the climb even in grey weather. On a rainy November afternoon, you can easily spend three or four hours here without feeling like you are killing time — the collections are genuinely absorbing, and the building itself is part of the experience.
November's limited daylight and frequent rain push you indoors, and this museum is free, warm, and deep enough to fill an entire afternoon without feeling repetitiveBooking tipFree entry, no booking needed — but check online for any temporary exhibition that might require timed tickets
Walk Arthur's Seat at dawn or early morning
outdoorsThe ancient volcanic peak in Holyrood Park offers panoramic views over the city, the Firth of Forth, and out to the Pentland Hills. In November, the low sun angle and frequent cloud breaks can produce striking light across the landscape — golds and purples that higher summer sun never quite manages. The grass is brown and the gorse is dormant, but the raw, stripped-back look suits the hill. The wind at the summit can be fierce, so brace yourself.
November's late sunrise means you can reach the summit for dawn light without a brutal alarm — sunrise is around 7:45am, and the low-angle autumn light produces dramatic colours across the city and coastline when clouds breakBooking tipNo booking needed — wear waterproof boots with ankle support, as the paths can be muddy and slippery after rain
Browse the Stockbridge Sunday Market
food and drinkThis weekly market in the Stockbridge neighbourhood draws a loyal local crowd for artisan food stalls, baked goods, street food, cheese, charcuterie, and handmade crafts. In November the stall mix shifts toward warming foods — pies, soups, hot chocolate — and the atmosphere is cosy despite the cold. It runs rain or shine, though the crowd thins when the weather is particularly grim, which means shorter queues at the popular stalls.
The market shifts to autumn and winter offerings in November — game pies, root-vegetable soups, warming drinks — and the pre-Christmas gift stalls begin appearing, all without the December rushBooking tipArrive before 11am for the best selection — popular bakers sell out by noon
Edinburgh's Christmas market opening weekend
seasonalEast Princes Street Gardens transforms into a winter fairground and market in late November. The first weekend has a novelty factor that December lacks — everything is freshly built, the lights are just switched on, and the crowds have not yet hit their peak density. There is an ice rink, an observation wheel, and dozens of food and craft stalls. The view from inside the market up to the floodlit castle is one of Edinburgh's most recognisable winter images.
Late November is the only time to experience the Christmas market at its opening — before the December crowds arrive and while the novelty factor is highestBooking tipThe ice rink and some rides require tickets — book online on the day to avoid the on-site queue, especially on the opening Saturday
Attend a St Andrew's Day ceilidh
cultureOn and around November 30th, venues across Edinburgh host ceilidh dances — the traditional Scottish social dance where a caller walks you through the steps. You do not need to know what you are doing; that is the entire point. The mix of live fiddle and accordion music, the physicality of being spun around a dance floor by strangers, and the communal energy of the room make this one of the most genuine Scottish cultural experiences available to visitors.
St Andrew's Day ceilidhs happen specifically around November 30th — this is the only time of year these particular celebrations run, and Edinburgh hosts the largestBooking tipPopular ceilidh venues like the Assembly Rooms or Ghillie Dhu sell out quickly — book tickets as soon as they go on sale, usually in early November
Walk the Water of Leith Walkway through Dean Village
outdoorsThis river path runs through some of Edinburgh's most picturesque stretches, and the section through Dean Village — with its old mill buildings, stone bridges, and narrow gorge — is particularly atmospheric in November. The last of the autumn leaves cling to the trees along the banks, the river runs higher than summer, and the damp stone takes on a dark, rich colour. It is quiet on weekday mornings, and you might see a grey heron or a dipper working the shallows.
The last remnants of autumn foliage along the river combined with the bare branches and higher water levels create a moody, photogenic landscape that peaks in early-to-mid November before everything goes fully bareBooking tipNo booking needed — the path is public and paved, but wear waterproof shoes as it floods in patches after heavy rain
Evening ghost tour through the Old Town vaults
cultureEdinburgh's underground vaults beneath the South Bridge have hosted ghost tours for years, and November's early darkness and raw atmosphere make them considerably more effective than a summer-evening version. You descend into stone chambers that were bricked up in the 18th century, and the guides — usually actors or historians — deliver stories of plague, murder, and haunting in near-total darkness. The cold, damp air underground is not a special effect; it is just Edinburgh in November.
Darkness falls by 4pm in November, so evening tours start in genuine nighttime atmosphere rather than the lingering twilight of summer — the Old Town's closes and wynds feel appropriately eerie when it is properly dark and coldBooking tipSeveral companies run these tours — Mercat Tours and City of the Dead are well-established. Book online for Friday and Saturday evenings, which sell out even in low season
What to eat in November
On menus now
Cullen skink
This thick, creamy soup made from smoked haddock, potatoes, and onions is exactly the kind of thing you want after walking through Edinburgh's damp November streets. Most traditional restaurants and gastropubs across the Old Town and Leith serve their own version, and quality varies — the best have a smoky depth that warms from the inside out. Peak comfort food for the season.
Haggis, neeps and tatties
Scotland's national dish is available year-round, but there is something about eating it in a dim, stone-walled pub in November that feels correct — mashed turnip and potato alongside the peppery, oaty haggis, ideally with a dram of whisky on the side. The texture surprises most first-timers: more like a coarse, savoury crumble than anything offal-like. November builds toward Burns Night season, and kitchens are refining their recipes.
Scotch broth
A hearty soup of barley, root vegetables, and lamb or mutton that has been a Scottish cold-weather staple for centuries. November is when it reappears on pub menus and in home kitchens across the city. The best versions have been simmering long enough for the barley to go soft and the broth to thicken. You will find it in traditional pubs around Grassmarket and the Old Town.
What to drink
Hot toddy
Scotch whisky, hot water, honey, lemon, and sometimes a clove or cinnamon stick. It is the default cold-weather drink in Edinburgh pubs, and November is when it shifts from novelty to necessity. Every bartender has their own ratio. Some are barely warm whisky; others are sweet enough to mask the alcohol entirely. The good ones hit a balance somewhere between medicine and dessert.
In markets
Venison
November sits in the heart of the Scottish deer stalking season, and restaurants across Edinburgh feature wild venison on their autumn menus. You will find it as steaks, in stews, and sometimes in sausages at the Stockbridge Sunday market. The meat tends to be lean, rich, and slightly gamey — a world apart from farmed versions. Worth trying at least once.
Scottish game birds
Pheasant and partridge season runs through November, and Edinburgh's better restaurants and gastropubs serve them roasted, in pies, or braised with root vegetables. The Stockbridge and Morningside areas tend to have neighbourhood restaurants that do game well without the white-tablecloth formality. The flavour is stronger and more complex than chicken — somewhere between dark poultry and something wilder.
Regular events in November
Scottish International Storytelling Festival
An annual festival of live storytelling, spoken word, and oral tradition hosted at the Scottish Storytelling Centre on the Royal Mile. Events range from traditional Scottish tales to international performers, workshops, and late-night sessions. The atmosphere is intimate and the audiences tend to be small and engaged. Some events are free.
Late October through early NovemberBonfire Night celebrationsFree
November 5th brings fireworks displays and bonfires across Edinburgh, with the largest public display typically held at Calton Hill or Meadowbank. Smaller community bonfires pop up in parks around the city. The tradition marks Guy Fawkes Night, and Edinburgh's version includes food stalls, sparklers, and that particular smell of gunpowder and damp leaves that defines British November evenings.
November 5 (and the nearest weekend)Edinburgh Art Fair
An annual contemporary art fair bringing together galleries from across Scotland and the UK, typically held at a central Edinburgh venue. It features paintings, sculpture, prints, and mixed media from established and emerging artists, with many works available to purchase.
Mid-to-late NovemberSeasonal farmers' marketsFree
Edinburgh's regular farmers' markets in Castle Terrace and Stockbridge shift to autumn and winter produce in November — root vegetables, game, preserves, baked goods, and warming prepared foods. Castle Terrace runs on the first and third Saturday of the month. The stall holders are mostly Scottish producers and the quality is noticeably above supermarket standard.
Saturdays throughout NovemberBest places this November
Princes Street Gardens
parkThe gardens that run below Edinburgh Castle take on a different character in November — the flower beds are dormant, but the bare trees frame views up to the castle that are hidden by summer foliage. When the Christmas market opens in late November, the eastern section transforms into the festival site. On quieter mid-month days, the gardens are nearly empty and the scale of the castle above becomes more imposing without the distraction of crowds.
New TownDean Village
neighborhoodThis former milling village sits in a gorge along the Water of Leith, just minutes from the West End. The old stone buildings, narrow lanes, and river views are atmospheric year-round, but November's bare branches and damp stone walls give it a quiet, almost fairy-tale quality. Morning mist sometimes fills the gorge. It is one of Edinburgh's most photogenic spots and remarkably uncrowded even in peak season — in November, you may have it largely to yourself.
Dean VillageCalton Hill
viewpointThe hill at the east end of Princes Street offers one of Edinburgh's best panoramic views — the castle, Arthur's Seat, the Firth of Forth, and the New Town rooftops laid out below. In November, the low sun angles at dawn and late afternoon produce warm light across the city that summer's overhead sun cannot match. Mind you, the wind at the top can be strong enough to affect your balance, so hold onto your hat.
East EndGrassmarket
squareThe broad, pub-lined square below the castle is one of Edinburgh's oldest market areas and feels particularly inviting in November. The fairy lights strung between buildings are already up, the pubs and restaurants glow warmly, and the castle above is usually lit against the dark sky by late afternoon. It is a good base for evening eating and drinking, with options ranging from traditional Scottish to modern small plates.
Old TownScottish National Gallery
museumThe gallery on the Mound houses Scotland's national collection of fine art, from the Renaissance through to the early twentieth century. It is free, centrally located, and rarely crowded in November. The building itself is worth seeing — a neoclassical temple that makes you feel like art viewing is a serious civic activity. The collection includes Raeburn, Ramsay, and a surprisingly strong group of Impressionists.
New TownLeith waterfront
neighborhoodEdinburgh's port district has transformed over the past two decades from rough docklands into one of the city's best eating and drinking neighbourhoods. The waterfront area around Commercial Street and The Shore has a concentration of restaurants, wine bars, and seafood spots that tend to be less tourist-oriented than the Royal Mile. In November, the harbour lights reflect off the water and the restaurants are warm, unhurried, and grateful for your custom.
LeithGreyfriars Kirkyard
historic siteOne of Edinburgh's most atmospheric graveyards, with centuries-old headstones, views of the castle, and a connection to both the Greyfriars Bobby legend and the Covenanters' history. In November, low cloud sometimes settles around the stones, and the bare trees and dark sky give the place a gravity that summer's green cheerfulness softens. It is also a stop on most ghost tours, so you may encounter groups in the evening. Free to visit during daylight hours.
Old TownThe Meadows
parkThis large, flat park south of the Old Town is where locals walk, run, and let their dogs off the lead. In November, the avenue of trees has mostly shed its leaves but the paths stay walkable and the space feels open and quiet. It is not a tourist destination, which is part of its appeal — you get a sense of Edinburgh as a city where people actually live, not just visit. Good for a morning walk before heading into the Old Town.
Bruntsfield
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Insider tips
The Castle Terrace farmers' market on the first and third Saturday of the month is where Edinburgh chefs buy their ingredients — the quality of the game, cheese, and baked goods is a step above what you will find at more tourist-visible markets, and the crowd is almost entirely local.
If Edinburgh's Christmas market is open in late November and you want the German-style market stalls rather than the rides and carnival section, head for the western end of East Princes Street Gardens near the Ross Bandstand — it is less crowded and more focused on food and craft than the eastern funfair end.
For whisky, skip the Royal Mile tourist shops and walk to Leith — bars like Teuchters Landing and the neighbourhood spots along The Shore tend to have better selections at lower markups, and the bartenders are more likely to help you find something you genuinely enjoy rather than upselling the most expensive bottle.
The free galleries — Scottish National Gallery, Scottish National Portrait Gallery, and the National Museum of Scotland — are all within walking distance of each other and could fill an entire rainy day. The Portrait Gallery on Queen Street is the one most visitors miss, and its Great Hall alone is worth the detour.
If you are climbing Arthur's Seat, take the path from Dunsapie Loch on the east side rather than the steeper direct route from Holyrood — it is less exposed to the prevailing westerly wind, drier underfoot in November, and the views of the Firth of Forth open up gradually as you climb.
Avoid these mistakes
- Packing for the temperature on the forecast without accounting for wind chill and humidity — 10°C in Edinburgh in November feels significantly colder than 10°C in a dry, still climate. Visitors from continental Europe or North America regularly underdress and spend their first day buying emergency layers on Princes Street.
- Planning a full day of outdoor sightseeing without a wet-weather backup plan — rain can settle in for hours in November, and if your entire itinerary is walking tours and hilltop viewpoints, you will end up cold, wet, and frustrated. Always have two or three indoor alternatives ready to go for each day.
- Assuming the Edinburgh Christmas market will be in full swing throughout November — it typically opens in the final week, sometimes the last weekend, and some stalls and attractions may still be setting up in the first days. If the market is the main draw, confirm the exact opening date before booking flights.
- Walking the steep closes off the Royal Mile in smooth-soled shoes after rain — the worn stone steps become genuinely slippery, and a fall on those narrow staircases can ruin a trip. This catches people out every year, especially on Advocate's Close and Fleshmarket Close.
Practical tips for November
Book accommodation in the Old Town or New Town to minimize time outdoors between attractions — the compact city centre means most major sites are within a 15-minute walk, but in November rain and wind, that walk feels longer if you are based in a distant neighbourhood. Most restaurants in Leith and Stockbridge do not require reservations in November, but check ahead for Friday and Saturday evenings at the more popular spots. Some outdoor tour operators (boat trips on the Forth, open-top bus tours) run reduced schedules or close entirely after October — verify before you arrive. If you plan to visit Edinburgh Castle, go in the morning on a weekday when even the low November visitor numbers are at their thinnest. The last entry is usually around 4pm in winter, which feels early but tracks with the fading light. Public transport (Lothian Buses and the tram to the airport) runs on the same schedule year-round, so transit logistics are straightforward. Carry cash for the farmers' markets — not all stalls take cards. And layer your clothing so you can adjust quickly: you will overheat in museum lobbies if you cannot strip down, and freeze on the street if you cannot pile back on.
FAQ
Is November a good time to visit Edinburgh?
It depends on what you are after. November is not Edinburgh's strongest month — the days are short, the weather is cold and damp, and some outdoor attractions scale back. But it is one of the cheapest and least crowded months, the cultural venues are excellent, and if you time it for late November you catch the opening of Edinburgh's Christmas plus St Andrew's Day celebrations. For travelers who prefer atmosphere and indoor culture over sunshine and long days, it works well. For those who want warm weather and outdoor exploring, May through September is a better bet.
What is the weather like in Edinburgh in November?
Cold, damp, and windy. Average highs sit around 10°C (49°F) and lows around 5°C (41°F), with rain on roughly 13 days — about 89mm total. Humidity stays high at 83%. The rain tends to be persistent drizzle rather than heavy downpours, and the wind makes it feel colder than the numbers suggest. Sunshine is limited — you might get three or four genuinely clear days if you are lucky. Frost is possible toward month's end. Pack waterproof layers and expect to spend more time indoors than you might in summer.
Is Edinburgh crowded in November?
Not at all. November is one of Edinburgh's quietest months for tourism. The summer festival season ended in September, and the Christmas market rush does not properly begin until December. You will share major attractions with far fewer people than in peak season, and the Royal Mile feels noticeably calmer. The main exception is the Edinburgh's Christmas opening weekend in late November, which draws locals and early visitors, but even that is modest compared to December weekends.
What should I wear in Edinburgh in November?
Think layers and waterproofing. A thermal base layer, a warm fleece or wool mid-layer, and a fully waterproof outer jacket with a hood is the standard setup. Waterproof shoes with good grip are essential for the cobblestones and hillside paths. Add a warm hat, scarf, and gloves — the wind on exposed hilltops and along the waterfront makes bare skin uncomfortable quickly. Cotton absorbs the damp and stays cold, so synthetic or wool fabrics work much better.
Are there any festivals or events in Edinburgh in November?
The two main draws are Edinburgh's Christmas, which typically opens in the last week of November with a market, ice rink, and fairground in Princes Street Gardens, and St Andrew's Day on November 30th, Scotland's national day, which brings a torchlight procession, ceilidh dances, and free events. Bonfire Night on November 5th has public fireworks displays, and the Scottish International Storytelling Festival runs in early November. None of these are on the scale of August's festivals, but they add genuine cultural texture to a visit.
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