Things to Do in New York in December

Wollman Rink sits in the southern end of Central Park with the Midtown skyline rising behind it, and skating there on a cold December evening — with the trees bare and the buildings lit up — is one of those New York moments that actually delivers on the postcard promise. The ice gets choppy by afternoon on busy days, so mornings tend to offer smoother skating.

The big department stores put months of work into their window displays, and walking the stretch from roughly 49th to 59th Street becomes a slow-moving outdoor gallery. Each window tells some kind of story — mechanical figures, elaborate miniature sets, fabric and light installations. The craftsmanship is impressive up close. You'll smell roasted nuts from nearby carts and hear snippets of music from every doorway.

December is peak theater season, and there's something about ducking into a warm theater from the cold streets of the Theater District that makes the whole experience feel more special. The pre-show bustle of Times Square takes on a different character — tourists in scarves, the steam rising from grates, neon reflecting off wet sidewalks. Productions often have their strongest casts locked in for the holiday run.

This open-air market fills the south end of Union Square with rows of small vendor booths selling handmade jewelry, ceramics, candles, leather goods, hot cider, and food from local producers. The air smells like cinnamon and woodsmoke. It's one of the better places to find gifts that didn't come off an assembly line — though quality varies booth to booth, so browse before you buy.

The pedestrian walkway offers views of Lower Manhattan's skyline as the lights start coming on, and in December the early sunset means you can catch golden hour around 4:30 PM without staying out late. The wooden planks creak under your boots, the cold wind comes off the East River, and the city spreads out in both directions. It's beautiful, even if you've seen a thousand photos of it before.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art puts up a large decorated tree and an eighteenth-century Neapolitan nativity scene in the Medieval Art gallery each December. The tree stands surrounded by carved angels and cherubs, lit by candlelight. Beyond the seasonal display, The Met is one of those places where you could spend three days and still miss entire wings. December's cold weather makes an indoor museum day feel well-spent.

New York takes hot chocolate more seriously than most cities, and the holiday markets scattered across Manhattan and Brooklyn serve cups that range from thin and sweet to thick, dark, and borderline drinkable-dessert. The Columbus Circle market and Bryant Park's winter village both have vendors worth seeking out. Wrapping your hands around a warm cup while browsing stalls in the cold is a small pleasure that adds up.

Yes, it's touristy. Extremely so. But there's a reason millions of people go — the tree is enormous, the lights are warm against the night sky, and the skating rink below it creates a scene that's become embedded in holiday culture worldwide. The trick is going very early in the morning or late at night to avoid the worst of the crowds. Midday on a December weekend here is close to impassable.