Kathmandu for first-time visitors
Boudhanath Stupa, not Durbar Square. The 36-metre white dome in the Boudha neighborhood sits at the center of Kathmandu's Tibetan quarter. The evening kora around it, with butter lamps flickering and monks chanting from surrounding monasteries, is the single most concentrated spiritual experience in the valley. No reservation needed. Entry is NPR 400, about $2.65.
Questions first-timers ask about Kathmandu
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Must-see
Boudhanath Stupa, not Durbar Square. The 36-metre white dome in the Boudha neighborhood sits at the center of Kathmandu's Tibetan quarter. The evening kora around it, with butter lamps flickering and monks chanting from surrounding monasteries, is the single most concentrated spiritual experience in the valley. No reservation needed. Entry is NPR 400, about $2.65.
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Best time to visit
October and November are the best months for Kathmandu. Monsoon clouds clear by early October, and the Himalayan range becomes visible from Nagarkot and Swayambhunath. Temperatures sit between 10°C and 25°C. Dashain and Tihar festivals fill Basantapur Durbar Square with marigold garlands, and hotel rates stay 20-30% below the December peak.
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Airport to city
From Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), take a prepaid taxi from the counter inside the arrivals hall. Fixed fare to Thamel is NPR 700-800 ($5), and the ride takes 20-40 minutes. The receipt settles the price before you reach the car. No negotiation needed, and the counter operates for every arriving flight.
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How to get there
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), 6 km east of central Kathmandu, is Nepal's only major international gateway. No nonstop flights exist from North America or Europe. Most travelers connect through Delhi, Doha, or Istanbul on Qatar Airways, Turkish Airlines, or IndiGo. Round-trip fares from the US run $900-1,400, from London £500-900. October-November peak trekking season drives prices up 30-50%.
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Getting around
Pathao (Nepal's ride-hail app) for anything beyond walking distance, your feet for the Thamel-to-Durbar Square corridor, and the pre-paid taxi counter at Tribhuvan Airport on arrival. Download Pathao before landing. Metered taxis exist but drivers rarely run the meter. Budget 200-500 NPR per ride within the Ring Road.
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