Madrid for foodies

Best restaurants

Madrid eats late, eats loudly, and eats on its feet. The list below is twelve addresses inside the old centre (Sol, Plaza Mayor, the tight lanes off Carrera de San Jerónimo) where the kitchens run past midnight and the counters fill with people who came to eat, not to be photographed. There is no tasting-menu theatre here and no chef-as-celebrity signage; there is a taberna that opens at 07:00 for the market crowd, a burrito counter that keeps going until 01:00 on weekends, a Peruvian dining room a few minutes from Ópera, and an Argentine parrilla off Plaza de Canalejas that lights its grill at lunch and does not stop until after midnight. The city rewards visitors who eat where the postal code is 28012 or 28013 and the phone number still starts with 91. Skip the pyramid-of-paella restaurants ringing the main square; walk one street off it. That is the whole editorial thesis of what follows.