November might be the single best month to visit Kathmandu. The monsoon wrapped up in late September, and by now the valley has had 4-6 weeks to dry out. The result is air clarity that makes the Himalayan range seem close enough to touch from viewpoints like Nagarkot, 32 km east of the city center. Daytime highs sit around 21°C (70°F), nights dip to about 10°C (50°F), and rainfall drops to a near-negligible 10mm for the entire month. You'll likely see 3 rainy days at most. For context, July typically receives 768mm.
The timing carries a trade-off, though. November is peak tourist season in Nepal, and the Kathmandu Valley feels it. Guesthouses in Thamel fill up weeks ahead, Everest Base Camp trek permits spike, and Lukla flight seats become hard to find without advance booking. Hotel rates across the Kathmandu Valley reach their yearly high. If Tihar, Nepal's 5-day Festival of Lights, falls in November that year (the lunar calendar shifts it between late October and mid-November), you'll find some shops in Ason and Indrachowk closed for 2-3 days. Mind you, Tihar itself is worth the trip. Oil lamps line window ledges across Patan and Basantapur, marigold garlands drape every temple entrance, and the streets fill with the warm, sweet smell of sel roti frying in mustard oil.
Day-to-day, November in Kathmandu means cool mornings that warm quickly by 10am, comfortable afternoons around 20-21°C, and a noticeable chill after sunset around 5:15pm. The November sun sits lower at Kathmandu's 27°N latitude, casting golden light that catches the red brick of Bhaktapur's Nyatapola Temple and the gilded rooftops of Pashupatinath in ways the monsoon haze never allows. Worth noting, the valley's air quality has been declining in recent Novembers as brick kilns along the rim fire up and regional agricultural burning adds a haze that on bad days pushes the AQI above 150.
Why visit in November
- Post-monsoon air clarity delivers the best Himalayan views of the year. On clear mornings from Nagarkot or Chandragiri Hills, you can see from Dhaulagiri (8,167m) to Everest (8,849m).
- Rainfall drops to 10mm for the entire month, down from 768mm in July. Nearly every day is dry and sunny.
- Daytime temperatures around 21°C (70°F) are comfortable for walking the medieval squares of Patan, Bhaktapur, and Basantapur without overheating.
- Peak trekking season means trails like the Annapurna Circuit and Langtang Valley have fully operational teahouses, well-maintained paths, and reliable rescue helicopter coverage.
- Tihar, when it falls in November, is one of the most photogenic festivals in South Asia. Five days of oil lamps, rangoli, and marigold garlands transform every neighborhood.
Worth knowing
- Peak season pricing. Hotel rates in Thamel run 40-60% above the annual average, and popular teahouse treks can feel crowded on the main routes.
- Valley air quality deteriorates through November as brick kilns restart and regional crop burning adds particulate haze. Midday mountain views from the city itself are less reliable than early morning ones.
- Evenings cool sharply after sunset. Temperatures around 10°C (50°F) feel colder inside Kathmandu's unheated guesthouses, where concrete walls hold the chill.
- If Tihar falls during your stay, banks and government offices close for 3-5 days. ATMs in Thamel often run dry by day 2 of the holiday.
Best for
Think twice if
November marks the start of Kathmandu's dry season. The monsoon is firmly over, skies are typically clear through the morning, and rain is rare. Mornings start cool at around 10°C (50°F), often with mist in the valley bowl that burns off by 9am. Afternoons reach a mild 21°C (70°F) under strong sun, comfortable for walking the old cities. After sunset around 5:15pm, temperatures drop quickly, and by 8pm you'll want proper layers. Humidity sits at 77%, noticeably lower than the monsoon months (85-90%) but still enough that the cold evening air feels penetrating. Expect about 10mm of rain spread across 3 days, mostly light showers that pass within 30 minutes.
Seasonal caution
- Air quality in the Kathmandu Valley deteriorates through November as brick kilns restart along the valley rim and agricultural burning in the Terai lowlands sends smoke northward. AQI readings above 150 (unhealthy for sensitive groups) are common, particularly in the second half of the month. Travelers with asthma or respiratory conditions should carry an N95 mask and consider limiting strenuous outdoor activity on high-pollution days.
- Nighttime temperatures around 10°C (50°F) feel significantly colder inside Kathmandu's concrete guesthouses, which typically lack central heating. Hypothermia risk is real for budget travelers in poorly insulated rooms. Request extra blankets or choose accommodation with electric heaters.
Year-round climate
Averages from the last 5 years.
| Month | Avg high (°C) | Avg low (°C) | Rainfall (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 18 | 5 | 9 |
| Feb | 19 | 6 | 20 |
| Mar | 23 | 11 | 42 |
| Apr | 27 | 15 | 43 |
| May | 26 | 16 | 233 |
| Jun | 27 | 19 | 424 |
| Jul | 27 | 20 | 768 |
| Aug | 27 | 20 | 644 |
| Sep | 26 | 19 | 367 |
| Oct | 24 | 15 | 141 |
| Nov | 21 | 10 | 10 |
| Dec | 18 | 6 | 6 |
Headline events
Tihar (Festival of Lights)
Late October to mid-November (varies annually by lunar calendar). Often falls in the first two weeks of November.
Nepal's second-largest festival after Dashain. Five days of celebrations, each dedicated to a different being. Day 1 honors crows, Day 2 dogs, Day 3 cows (and Laxmi Puja, the main night, when every home and temple is lit with thousands of oil lamps and candles). Day 4 is Mha Puja, the Newari New Year, when families gather for elaborate feasts. Day 5 is Bhai Tika, when sisters apply tikka to their brothers. The streets of Ason, Patan, and Basantapur fill with marigold garlands, rangoli patterns in colored powder, and the warm smell of sel roti frying in mustard oil. Deusi-Bhailo groups go door to door singing traditional songs, similar to Christmas caroling. Whether Tihar falls in October or November depends on the lunar calendar. In many years, all five days fall within the first two weeks of November.
Best things to do in November
Trek to Everest Base Camp
trekkingThe classic 12-14 day trek from Lukla to Everest Base Camp (5,364m) passes through Sherpa villages like Namche Bazaar (3,440m) and Dingboche (4,410m). November offers stable weather, clear views of Ama Dablam and Lhotse, and well-stocked teahouses along the route. The trail is busy but functional, with reliable helicopter rescue coverage.
November has the driest, clearest conditions of the year for high-altitude trekking. Snowfall above 5,000m is minimal, and the post-monsoon clarity means unobstructed views of Everest and the surrounding peaks.Booking tipBook Lukla flights and trekking permits at least 4-6 weeks in advance. Flight cancellations due to weather at Lukla (Tenzing-Hillary Airport, 2,845m) are common even in November, so build 2 buffer days into your itinerary.
Sunrise at Nagarkot
sightseeingNagarkot sits at 2,195m on the eastern rim of the Kathmandu Valley, about 32 km from the city center. The drive takes roughly 1.5 hours. From the viewing tower, the Himalayan panorama stretches from Annapurna in the west to Everest in the east. November mornings are cold (around 5°C at dawn) but the clarity is unmatched.
Post-monsoon November offers the highest probability of clear sunrise views over the Himalayas. The air is drier than any other month, and the mountain range appears sharp-edged against deep blue sky.Booking tipStay overnight at one of the ridge-top lodges to avoid the 4am drive from Kathmandu. Weekday mornings are noticeably less crowded than weekends.
Walk the Kathmandu Valley UNESCO circuit
cultureThe Kathmandu Valley holds 7 UNESCO World Heritage monument zones. A 3-day circuit covers Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Durbar Square, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath, Pashupatinath, and Changu Narayan. November's 21°C afternoons make walking between sites comfortable. Entry fees range from NPR 500-1,500 per site for foreign visitors.
The 21°C daytime temperature and minimal rain make November ideal for long days of walking between the valley's heritage sites. Summer monsoon damage restoration is typically complete by November, so sites are in their best condition.Booking tipHire a licensed guide through the Nepal Tourism Board office in Bhrikuti Mandap. Rates for a full-day English-speaking guide are typically NPR 3,000-5,000.
Photography at Boudhanath Stupa
photographyBoudhanath (Boudha) is one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world, with a dome circumference of about 120 meters. The prayer circuit (kora) around its base fills with Tibetan monks, local devotees, and pilgrims each morning and evening. The golden spire catches November's low-angle light in ways that the overhead monsoon sun cannot replicate.
November's golden, low-angle sunlight and clear air produce the best lighting conditions of the year for photographing the stupa's whitewashed dome and gilded pinnacle. Early morning mist sometimes adds atmospheric depth.Booking tipArrive before 7am for the morning kora. The light hits the eastern face of the stupa first. Rooftop cafes around the perimeter offer elevated angles, though some charge a minimum food order of NPR 300-500.
Mountain flight from Kathmandu
scenicSeveral domestic airlines operate 1-hour scenic flights from Tribhuvan International Airport along the Himalayan range, passing within viewing distance of Everest (8,849m), Lhotse (8,516m), and Makalu (8,485m). Flights depart between 6:30am and 9:30am. Passengers get a window seat and a brief cockpit visit near the Everest approach.
November's post-monsoon clarity gives these flights their highest probability of unobstructed mountain views. Cancellation rates are lower than in winter months when cloud cover increases.Booking tipBook through your hotel or a Thamel travel agency at least 3 days ahead. Left-side seats (port) offer the primary Everest view on the outbound leg.
Cycle the valley rim from Kirtipur to Chapagaun
cyclingA 25-30 km ride along the southern rim of the Kathmandu Valley, starting from the medieval hilltop town of Kirtipur (1,400m) and winding through farmland and Newari villages to Chapagaun near Godavari. The route passes terraced fields, small Buddhist monasteries, and offers intermittent views of the Langtang range to the north.
Dry roads, 21°C temperatures, and minimal wind make November the most comfortable month for valley cycling. The monsoon-green rice paddies are being harvested, and the terraced hillsides have a golden-brown color that photographs well.Booking tipRent mountain bikes in Thamel. Several shops near the Mandala Street intersection offer reasonable daily rates. Start early to catch the morning light on the western valley rim.
Attend Tihar celebrations in Patan
festivalIf Tihar falls in November, Patan's Newari neighborhoods around Mangal Bazaar and Durbar Square host some of the most photogenic celebrations in the valley. Homes are decorated with marigold garlands and oil lamps. Evening Deusi-Bhailo groups sing door to door. The Mha Puja ceremony (Newari New Year, Day 4) is especially atmospheric in Patan's courtyards.
Tihar frequently falls in the first half of November. Patan's dense Newari architecture concentrates the lamp and flower decorations into narrow lanes, creating a more immersive atmosphere than the wider streets of central Kathmandu.Booking tipCheck the Nepali lunar calendar for that year's exact Tihar dates before booking flights. The main Laxmi Puja night (Day 3) is the visual highlight.
Day trip to Bhaktapur
cultureBhaktapur lies 13 km east of central Kathmandu. This medieval Newari city is smaller and quieter than Kathmandu, with brick-paved squares, carved wooden windows, and the 30m-tall Nyatapola Temple. The entry fee for foreign visitors is NPR 1,500 and covers the entire city. November afternoons in Bhaktapur have a particularly warm light that turns the red brick facades deep amber.
November's dry weather and clear air mean Bhaktapur's mountain backdrop (the Langtang range) is visible from the city's upper terraces. The comfortable 21°C temperature allows unhurried exploration of the pottery squares and temple complexes.Booking tipTake a local bus from Kathmandu's Kamal Pokhari bus stand (NPR 30-40, about 45 minutes) rather than a taxi (NPR 1,500-2,000). Arrive before 9am to see Pottery Square before the tour groups.
What to eat in November
On menus now
Tarul ko tarkari
Yam and taro curry prepared with turmeric, cumin, and timur (Sichuan pepper). November marks the autumn harvest for taro in the Kathmandu Valley, so this is when the tubers are freshest. You'll find it as part of the thali at daal bhaat restaurants in Kirtipur and Patan. The dish has an earthy, slightly starchy warmth that suits the cooling weather.
Street food peaks
Bara (Wo)
Newari lentil patties made from ground black lentil batter, pan-fried on a flat griddle. Some versions come topped with egg or minced buffalo meat. Available year-round in Patan and the old city, but Tihar and the festival season mean extra street vendors appear around Mangal Bazaar and Asan. Best eaten hot, with a side of achar (spiced pickle).
What to drink
Tongba
Hot fermented millet beer served in a wooden or metal vessel with a bamboo straw. As November evenings drop toward 10°C, tongba becomes the warming drink of choice in Boudha and Thamel's quieter side streets. You add hot water to the fermented millet and sip through a filtered straw. Each vessel yields 3-4 refills before the millet gives out. Originally a Limbu tradition from eastern Nepal, now widely available in Kathmandu.
In markets
Gundruk
Fermented leafy greens, typically mustard or radish leaves. November is the traditional preparation month, when families in Kirtipur and Bhaktapur pack freshly wilted greens into ceramic jars for weeks-long fermentation. The sour, tangy result appears in soups and side dishes throughout winter. Gundruk ko jhol (gundruk soup) with rice is a staple at local daal bhaat places in Patan.
Festival food
Sel roti
Ring-shaped rice flour bread fried in mustard oil, crispy outside and soft within. Sel roti is the defining food of Tihar, prepared in enormous batches by families across the valley. Street vendors in Ason and Indrachowk sell them still warm from the oil. The texture sits somewhere between a doughnut and a rice cracker. Available year-round in some shops, but November during Tihar is when every household fries their own.
Regular events in November
Chhath PujaFree
A 4-day Hindu festival dedicated to the Sun God, observed primarily by Madheshi and Maithili communities. Devotثes fast for 36 hours and offer prayers standing waist-deep in water at sunrise and sunset. In Kathmandu, the main gathering points are Rani Pokhari and the Bagmati River ghats near Pashupatinath. The sight of hundreds of oil lamps floating on water at dawn is striking.
Typically falls 6 days after Tihar, often in the second or third week of NovemberNepal Sambat New Year (Mha Puja)Free
The Newari New Year, celebrated on the fourth day of Tihar. Newar families perform Mha Puja, a self-worship ritual using mandala patterns drawn on the floor with colored powders. Patan and Bhaktapur's Newari neighborhoods hold community feasts and cultural performances. This is one of the few calendar systems still actively celebrated by its originating community.
Falls on Day 4 of Tihar, typically in NovemberKartik PurnimaFree
The full moon of the Nepali month of Kartik. Devotees take ritual baths at Budhanilkantha Temple (the reclining Vishnu statue, 8 km north of Thamel) and at the Bagmati River ghats. Smaller observances occur at Pashupatinath and Patan's Krishna Mandir. The moonrise over the valley on a clear November night is memorable.
Full moon day in November (varies by lunar calendar)Best places this November
Nagarkot
viewpointThe go-to viewpoint for the eastern Kathmandu Valley rim. At 2,195m, Nagarkot offers a 300-degree Himalayan panorama that on clear November mornings stretches from Dhaulagiri to Everest. The viewing tower adds extra elevation. Temperatures at dawn hover around 5°C (41°F), so bring layers. The ridge has a handful of lodges and cafes serving hot tea at sunrise.
Boudhanath Stupa
templeOne of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world, the white dome of Boudhanath rises above the Boudha neighborhood in eastern Kathmandu. The kora (prayer circuit) is liveliest at dawn and dusk, when monks in maroon robes join local Tibetan families walking clockwise. November's clear evening skies make the sunset prayer flags particularly photogenic. Dozens of rooftop restaurants around the stupa serve Tibetan momos and butter tea.
BoudhaPatan Durbar Square
heritageThe best-preserved of the valley's three durbar squares, Patan's central plaza features the stone Krishna Mandir (1637), the multi-tiered Taleju Temple, and the Patan Museum inside the old royal palace. November afternoons fill the square with warm amber light. The surrounding Newari alleys hide small metalwork shops and family-run daal bhaat restaurants that rarely see tourists.
PatanSwayambhunath
templeThe hilltop stupa west of central Kathmandu, reached by climbing 365 stone steps. Known informally as the Monkey Temple for the resident macaque troops. From the top platform, November's clear air reveals the full spread of the valley floor below and the Himalayan range to the north. Best visited before 8am, when the morning sun lights the golden spire and the monkey troops are at their most active.
SwayambhuGarden of Dreams
parkA restored neo-classical garden in Thamel, originally built in 1920 by Field Marshal Kaiser Shumsher Rana. The 6,000 sq meter garden offers pergolas, ornamental ponds, and quiet benches. November's mild 20°C afternoons make this a welcome retreat from Thamel's chaotic streets. Entry fee is NPR 400 for foreign visitors.
ThamelAsan Bazaar
marketThe oldest and most atmospheric market in Kathmandu, centered on a six-way intersection in the old city. Spice vendors, vegetable sellers, and incense shops line narrow medieval lanes. During Tihar, Asan becomes the center of marigold garland commerce. Thousands of orange garlands hang from every stall, and the air smells of camphor and marigold. Even outside Tihar, the market runs daily from around 6am.
AsonChangu Narayan
templeA hilltop Vishnu temple about 12 km east of Kathmandu, considered the oldest temple in the valley (dating to the 4th century). The site sees fewer visitors than the main durbar squares, and November's clear skies reveal views of the Langtang range to the north. The walk from Bhaktapur takes about 3 hours through terraced farmland and small villages.
Chandragiri Hills
viewpointA cable car ride from Thankot, on the southwestern valley rim, up to Chandragiri at 2,551m. The 10-minute ride costs NPR 600-800 round trip. From the top, November mornings offer panoramic views spanning from the Annapurna massif to Gauri Shankar. A small Bhaleshwor Mahadev temple sits at the summit. Less crowded than Nagarkot and accessible without overnight stays.
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Insider tips
The morning kora at Boudhanath before 7am is a different experience from the daytime tourist version. You'll walk alongside Tibetan monks and local Newar families, with the sound of chanting from the surrounding monasteries still audible. The rooftop cafes are empty, and the light on the stupa is soft gold.
Patan's side-street daal bhaat restaurants (particularly around Mangal Bazaar) serve fuller, better thalis than the tourist-oriented places in Thamel, often for NPR 250-400 versus NPR 600-900. Look for places with Nepali-language signs and office workers eating lunch.
If Tihar falls during your visit, walk through Ason and the old city neighborhoods after dark on Laxmi Puja night (Day 3). Every window, doorstep, and roofline is lit with oil lamps. The display is more immersive in the narrow Newari lanes of Patan than on wider streets.
Buy spices at Asan Bazaar, not in Thamel. The same timur (Sichuan pepper), jimbu (Himalayan allium), and dried chili cost 2-3 times more in Thamel's tourist-facing shops. Vendors in Ason sell by weight and expect light bargaining.
For the clearest mountain views from Nagarkot, check the air quality index before making the trip. On days when Kathmandu's AQI exceeds 150, even Nagarkot's elevation is not enough to fully escape the haze layer. Early morning (before 8am) reliably offers the clearest window regardless.
Avoid these mistakes
- Packing only for warm weather. The 21°C daytime high is misleading. By 6pm, temperatures in the Kathmandu Valley are already below 15°C, and by midnight they approach 10°C. Unheated concrete guesthouses amplify the cold. Every November, undertravelers end up buying overpriced fleece jackets in Thamel.
- Not building buffer days around Lukla flights. Even in November, Tenzing-Hillary Airport's short runway and mountain weather cause cancellations 1-2 days per week. Travelers who fly to Lukla with no buffer days risk missing their international connection home. Add 2 days minimum.
- Visiting Kathmandu Durbar Square or Boudhanath at midday. Tour buses arrive between 10am and 2pm. By contrast, 6:30-8am gives you the morning prayer circuit at Boudhanath with mostly locals, and late afternoon (after 4pm) empties the durbar squares as groups leave for hotel dinners.
- Ignoring air quality. First-time visitors often assume mountain cities have clean air. Kathmandu's valley-bowl geography traps pollutants, and November's still air and brick kiln emissions create smog that triggers headaches and respiratory irritation. Check AQI readings daily and carry an N95 mask, especially for morning walks near the ring road.
Practical tips for November
Book Thamel guesthouses and Lukla flights at least 4-6 weeks ahead in November. Popular trekking routes like the Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp fill their teahouse lodges by early afternoon, so plan to start walking each day by 7am to secure a bed. Domestic airlines add extra Lukla flights in peak season, but weather cancellations remain common. Build 2 buffer days into any trekking itinerary that involves flying to Lukla. Most temples open from 6am and close around 6pm. If Tihar falls during your visit, expect banks and government offices to close for 3-5 days. ATMs in Thamel stay operational but often run out of cash by the second day of the holiday, so withdraw Nepali rupees beforehand. Dress in layers. A cotton shirt works at noon in 21°C sun, but you'll want a fleece and windbreaker by 5pm. For temple visits at Pashupatinath and Changu Narayan, cover shoulders and knees. Shoes come off at every temple entrance, so slip-on footwear saves time. Tipping is not mandatory but appreciated. NPR 100-200 per day for guides and NPR 50-100 per meal for restaurant staff is standard. November sunset is around 5:15pm, and it gets dark fast. Plan your return from day trips to Nagarkot or Bhaktapur accordingly.
FAQ
Is November a good time to visit Kathmandu?
November is arguably the best month to visit Kathmandu. The monsoon ended 4-6 weeks earlier, leaving dry air and the clearest mountain views of the year. Daytime temperatures of 21°C (70°F) are comfortable for sightseeing, and rainfall is minimal at 10mm. The trade-off is peak-season pricing and larger crowds at popular sites like Boudhanath and the durbar squares. If your budget allows the 40-60% premium on accommodation, November delivers the best overall conditions.
What is the weather like in Kathmandu in November?
November in Kathmandu is dry and mild. Average highs reach 21°C (70°F), lows dip to about 10°C (50°F), and total rainfall is around 10mm across roughly 3 rainy days. Humidity sits at 77%. Mornings often start with valley mist that burns off by 9am. Afternoons are sunny and warm enough for short sleeves, but temperatures drop noticeably after sunset around 5:15pm. Bring warm layers for evenings, as most budget and mid-range accommodation lacks heating.
Is Kathmandu crowded in November?
Yes. November is peak tourist season in Nepal. Thamel's guesthouses fill up, Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Circuit trails are at their busiest, and Lukla flights sell out in advance. The main heritage sites (Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudhanath, Swayambhunath) see significant tour group traffic between 10am and 2pm. You can avoid the worst crowds by visiting early morning (before 8am) or late afternoon (after 4pm). Less-visited sites like Changu Narayan and the Newari neighborhoods of Kirtipur remain relatively quiet.
What festivals happen in Kathmandu in November?
The biggest potential festival is Tihar (Festival of Lights), a 5-day celebration that falls in either late October or November depending on the lunar calendar. When it lands in November, the valley transforms with oil lamps, marigold garlands, and rangoli. Chhath Puja follows about 6 days after Tihar, with devotees gathering at Rani Pokhari and the Bagmati River ghats. Nepal Sambat (Newari New Year) is celebrated on Tihar's fourth day. Check the specific year's Nepali calendar before booking, as dates shift annually.
Do I need to worry about air quality in Kathmandu in November?
Unfortunately, yes. The Kathmandu Valley's bowl-shaped geography traps pollutants, and November sees brick kilns along the valley rim firing up while regional agricultural burning adds particulate haze. The AQI regularly exceeds 100 (moderate) and on bad days reaches 150-200+ (unhealthy). Early mornings tend to be clearer than afternoons. Travelers with asthma or respiratory sensitivity should pack an N95 mask and consider planning outdoor activities before 10am when air quality is typically better. Escaping to higher elevation (Nagarkot, Chandragiri) helps, though the haze layer can extend above 2,000m on the worst days.
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