December in Kathmandu is cold, dry, and clear. That clarity is the draw. After months of monsoon haze, the Himalayan range becomes visible from the valley rim, and the sky over Swayambhunath turns a shade of blue you might not believe is real. Daytime temperatures reach about 18.3°C (65°F), comfortable for walking the old city's narrow lanes in Asan and Patan. But mornings and evenings drop to 6.1°C (43°F), and guesthouses in Thamel rarely have central heating. You'll feel it.
The trade-off nobody warns you about is the air. Kathmandu sits in a bowl-shaped valley, and winter temperature inversions trap vehicle exhaust, brick-kiln smoke, and cooking fuel haze at ground level. By mid-December, the AQI regularly crosses 200. Some mornings the pollution is thick enough to taste, a gritty metallic quality in your throat. The mountains you came to see might disappear behind a grey band for 2-3 days at a stretch, then reappear on a windy afternoon. That said, December still ranks among the best months to visit. Rainfall is essentially zero (6mm for the entire month), trekking routes are still open at moderate altitudes, and the post-monsoon landscape remains green on the valley floor.
This is also peak season, and Thamel's guesthouses know it. Expect rates 30-50% above the annual average, though Kathmandu's baseline remains affordable by global standards. A solid double room in Thamel that costs NPR 3,000 in July might run NPR 4,500-5,000 now. The Newari festival Yomari Punhi typically falls in December, filling the old-city bakeries with steamed rice-flour dumplings. It's a good month. Pack layers and an N95 mask.
Why visit in December
- Virtually no rain (6mm total) means uninterrupted sightseeing across all three Durbar Squares without dodging puddles or mud
- Clear-sky days offer direct views of Langtang and the Ganesh Himal range from Nagarkot and Chandragiri, roughly 15km visibility on good mornings
- Yomari Punhi brings seasonal Newari food culture to the streets of Kirtipur and Bhaktapur, with families offering yomari dumplings to neighbors
- Moderate daytime warmth (18°C) is ideal walking temperature for the 4-5 hour heritage circuit through Patan, Asan Tol, and Indra Chowk
- Short-haul trekking routes like the Shivapuri National Park ridge (2,732m) remain snow-free and accessible without permits beyond the park entry fee
Worth knowing
- Winter temperature inversions trap pollution in the valley, pushing AQI above 200 on still mornings, particularly in Kalanki and Koteshwor
- Morning temperatures near 6°C feel colder inside unheated stone guesthouses, where concrete walls radiate chill all night
- Peak-season pricing and higher tourist volume at Boudhanath and Swayambhunath, especially around Christmas and New Year
- Shorter daylight hours (sunset around 5:15 PM) compress sightseeing time, particularly for photography at higher-altitude viewpoints
Best for
Think twice if
December is Kathmandu's driest and second-coldest month. Days feel pleasant in direct sun, with temperatures around 18°C. Mornings are bracingly cold, often foggy in the valley floor until 9-10 AM when the sun burns through. Rain is negligible. Humidity sits at 73%, though it does not feel tropical because temperatures are low. Wind is light, occasionally picking up in the afternoon on ridge lines.
Seasonal caution
- Air quality in the Kathmandu Valley regularly exceeds WHO safe limits (AQI 150-250) during December due to temperature inversions trapping vehicle and industrial emissions. Travelers with respiratory conditions should carry N95 masks and consider limiting outdoor time on high-pollution mornings.
- Fog can reduce visibility on valley-floor roads before 9 AM, occasionally delaying domestic flights from Tribhuvan International Airport by 1-3 hours.
Year-round climate
Averages from the last 5 years.
| Month | Avg high (°C) | Avg low (°C) | Rainfall (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 18 | 5 | 9 |
| Feb | 19 | 6 | 20 |
| Mar | 23 | 11 | 42 |
| Apr | 27 | 15 | 43 |
| May | 26 | 16 | 233 |
| Jun | 27 | 19 | 424 |
| Jul | 27 | 20 | 768 |
| Aug | 27 | 20 | 644 |
| Sep | 26 | 19 | 367 |
| Oct | 24 | 15 | 141 |
| Nov | 21 | 10 | 10 |
| Dec | 18 | 6 | 6 |
Headline events
Yomari Punhi
Full moon day of Mangsir (usually mid-to-late December, varies by lunar calendar)
The Newari harvest festival celebrating the end of rice storage season. Families across the old cities of Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur prepare yomari, steamed rice-flour dumplings filled with chaku (molasses) and sesame. Children go door-to-door collecting them. The festival centers on Newari-majority neighborhoods, with the most visible celebrations in Kirtipur and Bhaktapur's pottery square.
Best things to do in December
Sunrise at Nagarkot
natureThe 32km drive east from Kathmandu reaches Nagarkot's ridge (2,175m) where December's dry air offers some of the year's clearest Himalayan panoramas. On good mornings you can see from Dhaulagiri in the west to Everest in the east, a 300km sweep of peaks turning pink at dawn.
December's low humidity and absence of monsoon cloud banks produce the highest probability of clear sunrise views. November is comparable, but December has fewer lingering post-monsoon clouds.Booking tipLeave Kathmandu by 5 AM to arrive before sunrise (around 6:45 AM in December). Hotels on the ridge serve early breakfast.
Heritage walk through Patan Durbar Square
cultureThe 15th-century Malla-era palace complex in Lalitpur, with its Krishna Mandir and Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar) nearby, is comfortable to explore at 18°C without monsoon puddles or summer heat. The carved wooden windows and stone courtyards photograph well in December's lower-angle light.
Dry conditions mean no muddy lanes between temples, and the soft winter sun from a lower angle picks out stone carvings that flatten under the high summer sun.Booking tipEntry ticket NPR 1,000 for foreigners. Go before 10 AM to avoid tour groups from Thamel.
Day trek to Champa Devi
trekkingThe 2,278m peak southwest of Kathmandu offers a 4-5 hour round trip from Pharping. The trail passes through pine forest and opens to views of the valley and the Langtang range. December's firm dry trails make the steep sections manageable.
Monsoon makes this trail muddy and leech-prone. December's bone-dry conditions and cool temperatures are ideal for the steep 700m elevation gain without overheating.Booking tipNo permit needed. Start from Pharping (30-minute taxi from Kathmandu, about NPR 1,500 one way). Bring 2 liters of water.
Boudhanath Stupa kora at dusk
cultureWalking the circumambulation circuit around Nepal's largest stupa as butter lamps are lit in the surrounding monasteries. The sound of monks chanting drifts from Shechen Monastery and Ka-Nying Shedrub Ling. In December's early darkness (5:15 PM sunset), the lamps glow against the twilight.
Early sunset means the lamp-lighting ritual happens while you're still active rather than late at night. The cold air seems to carry the juniper incense smoke further from the rooftop offerings.Booking tipEntry fee NPR 400. Arrive by 4:30 PM to catch the transition from daylight to lamp-lit dusk.
Mountain biking the Chandragiri-Chitlang loop
adventureA 45km circuit from Thankot through the Chandragiri ridge and down to Chitlang valley on mostly dirt roads. December's dry surface and cool temperature suit the 1,200m of climbing. Views of the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges from the ridgeline.
Rain turns this loop into a mud slide from June through September. December offers hardpacked trails and the cool air prevents overheating on the long climb.Booking tipRent a mountain bike in Thamel (NPR 1,500-2,500 per day). Start by 7 AM to complete the loop in daylight.
Pottery workshops in Bhaktapur's Pottery Square
cultureThimi and Bhaktapur's potters work year-round, but December's dry air is when they spread thousands of clay pots in the squares to sun-dry. The visual effect is remarkable. Several workshops offer 2-hour hand-throwing sessions for about NPR 500-800.
Potters need dry air to cure their work outdoors. December's near-zero rainfall means the squares are filled with drying pottery, a scene that disappears during monsoon months.Booking tipWalk into Pottery Square (Talako) in Bhaktapur and ask directly. No advance booking needed for most workshops.
Shivapuri National Park ridge hike
trekkingThe northern rim of the Kathmandu Valley rises to 2,732m at Shivapuri peak. The 4-hour trail from Budhanilkantha gate climbs through oak and rhododendron forest (not yet blooming, but the canopy is still green). Clear December days show the Langtang range from the summit.
Dry trail conditions, no leeches (a real problem May-September), and clear northern views. The temperature at the summit drops to near freezing, but the effort of climbing keeps you warm.Booking tipPark entry NPR 600 (foreigners). Gate opens at 6 AM. Bring a warm layer for the exposed summit.
Exploring Asan Tol spice market
foodKathmandu's oldest trading square, where sacks of jimbu (Himalayan herb), timur (Sichuan pepper), turmeric, and dried chilies are sold by weight. December is when households stock up on warming spices for winter cooking, so the market runs at full intensity. The smell of roasting cumin and fenugreek fills the narrow lanes.
Winter stocking season means the highest variety and freshest spice inventory. Vendors roast and grind on-site in quantities they don't bother with during slower months.What to eat in December
In season: fruit
Mandarin Oranges
Locally called suntala, these small tangerines peak in December. Vendors pile them in pyramids along New Road and at the Kalimati fruit market. About NPR 100-150 per kg, sweet and easy to peel.
On menus now
Gundruk ko Jhol
Fermented leafy green soup, a staple winter warmer in Kathmandu homes. December is when families open their stored gundruk (fermented mustard greens) from the autumn batch. Served hot with rice in most dal bhat places around Asan.
Thukpa
Tibetan noodle soup with vegetables or buffalo meat, served steaming hot. December's cold evenings make this the default dinner in Boudhanath's Tibetan restaurants. A full bowl costs NPR 150-250.
Street food peaks
Sel Roti
Ring-shaped rice-flour doughnut, fried crisp on the outside and soft within. Street vendors in Indra Chowk and around Boudhanath fry them fresh in the cold morning air. About NPR 20-30 each.
What to drink
Chhyang
Warm fermented rice beer, traditional Newari and Tamang winter drink. Served in brass pots at local bhattis (taverns) in Bhaktapur and Kirtipur. The warmth of the slightly sweet, mildly alcoholic brew cuts the December chill.
Festival food
Yomari
Steamed rice-flour dumplings filled with chaku molasses and sesame seeds, shaped like figs. Only made during Yomari Punhi in December. The Newari bakeries in Kirtipur sell them for about NPR 30-50 each.
Regular events in December
Christmas and New Year celebrations in ThamelFree
Thamel's bars and restaurants put up lights and run special menus from December 24 through January 1. Not a traditional Nepali celebration, but the tourist district turns festive. Live music at several rooftop bars.
December 24-31Constitution Day (Sambidhan Diwas)Free
Nepal's public holiday marking the 2015 constitution. Government offices close. Some cultural programs at Tundikhel parade ground.
December 20 (Poush 5 in the Nepali calendar, fixed)Udhauli ParvaFree
Kirant community festival marking the southward migration of birds and the shift to lowland farming. Celebrated with Sakela dance performances, particularly in the eastern Kathmandu neighborhoods of Sunsari and at Tundikhel. Falls on the full moon of Mangsir.
Mid-December (lunar calendar dependent)Tamu Lhosar preparationsFree
The Gurung New Year (Tamu Lhosar) falls in late December or early January. Gurung communities in Kathmandu begin cultural programs and dance rehearsals in the weeks before. The main celebration often falls December 30-31 with processions through New Baneshwor.
Late December to early JanuaryBest places this December
Garden of Dreams (Kaiser Mahal)
gardenThis restored neo-classical garden in Thamel, originally built in 1920 by Field Marshal Kaiser Shumsher, is one of the few heated-cafe spaces in the tourist district. December's low-angle sun warms the south-facing pavilions by late morning. Entry NPR 200.
ThamelSwayambhunath (Monkey Temple)
templeThe hilltop stupa west of the city center offers 360-degree valley views. December mornings before the haze builds (arrive by 7 AM) give the clearest panoramas of the year. The 365 stone steps are a wake-up in the cold air.
SwayambhuPatan Museum
museumHoused in a wing of the old Malla palace in Lalitpur, this museum of Hindu and Buddhist art has well-lit interior galleries that are a welcome retreat from December's cold outdoor air. The courtyard cafe serves decent coffee.
Patan (Lalitpur)Boudhanath Stupa and surrounding monasteries
templeNepal's largest stupa sits in a wide mandala-shaped plaza surrounded by Tibetan monasteries. December's tourist crowds are manageable on weekday mornings. The rooftop restaurants overlooking the stupa are good spots to warm up with butter tea.
BoudhaKirtipur old town
neighborhoodThis Newari hilltop settlement 5km southwest of central Kathmandu feels removed from the valley's pollution. The walk up to Bagh Bhairav temple takes 20 minutes and rewards with valley views. During Yomari Punhi, Kirtipur's narrow lanes fill with the smell of steaming rice dumplings.
KirtipurChandragiri Hills cable car
viewpointThe 2.5km gondola ride from Thankot to the Chandragiri ridge (2,551m) offers direct mountain views on clear December days. The Bhaleshwor Mahadev temple sits at the top. Temperature at the summit runs 5-8°C colder than the valley floor.
ThankotThamel rooftop bars
nightlifeDecember evenings are cold enough that the rooftop bars in Thamel bring out blankets and portable heaters. Places cluster along Mandala Street and the lanes near Kathmandu Guest House. The combination of fairy lights, mountain-view backdrop on clear nights, and Nepali craft beer makes for good evenings.
ThamelPashupatinath Temple cremation ghats
templeNepal's holiest Hindu temple on the Bagmati River. Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple but can observe the cremation ghats and surrounding shrines. December's dry conditions and low river level expose more of the ghat architecture. Early morning is least crowded.
Gaushala
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Insider tips
The air quality in Kathmandu Valley follows a daily cycle. Pollution is worst between 7-10 AM when the inversion layer is strongest. By early afternoon, solar heating lifts the lid and air improves noticeably. Schedule outdoor sightseeing for 11 AM-4 PM on bad-air days.
For Yomari Punhi, skip the tourist-facing restaurants in Thamel that add yomari to their menu as a novelty. Instead, walk through Kirtipur or the Newari lanes south of Asan Tol where families offer them to passers-by. The homemade versions, still warm from the steamer, are incomparably better.
Domestic flights from Tribhuvan Airport get fog-delayed most December mornings. If you're connecting to Pokhara or Lukla, book the earliest possible departure (which still won't leave until the fog lifts around 9-10 AM) and keep your schedule flexible. Afternoon flights are more reliable but often fully booked.
The best mountain views from within the city are not from the famous spots but from the road climbing to Budhanilkantha on the north side of the valley. The Langtang range appears directly ahead as you gain elevation, and there are no entrance fees or crowds at 6:30 AM.
Thamel's money changers on Mandala Street offer NPR 2-5 better per dollar than the airport exchange counter. Change a small amount at the airport for the taxi, then do the bulk in Thamel the next morning.
Avoid these mistakes
- Booking a mountain-view flight or Everest scenic flight for your first morning without a backup date. December fog delays at Tribhuvan Airport cancel or postpone 30-40% of early flights. Always have a weather-contingency day built into your schedule.
- Packing only for the daytime 18°C and being unprepared for the 6°C mornings and unheated guesthouses. The temperature swing of 12 degrees between noon and 6 AM catches travelers off guard, especially those arriving from tropical Asian cities.
- Planning a full day of outdoor sightseeing on a high-pollution morning instead of retreating to indoor options like the Patan Museum, Garden of Dreams, or one of Boudhanath's monastery meditation sessions. Check AQI apps before committing to a walking day.
- Assuming December 25 means Christmas closures. Nepal doesn't observe Christmas as a public holiday, and virtually everything stays open. Conversely, Constitution Day (December 20) does close government offices and some banks.
Practical tips for December
Book Nagarkot sunrise trips and Everest scenic flights with a weather-contingency buffer of at least one extra day. Domestic flights in December face morning fog delays 3-4 days per week. Carry cash (Nepali rupees) outside Thamel, as card acceptance drops sharply in Patan's old city, Bhaktapur, and Kirtipur. Dress in layers that you can peel off by 11 AM when the sun warms the valley to 15-18°C. Most trekking agencies in Thamel close by 7 PM in winter, so arrange permits and guides during afternoon hours. The Tribhuvan Airport visa-on-arrival queue can run 45-90 minutes in December peak season. Bring a completed application form and passport photos to save time.
FAQ
Is December a good time to visit Kathmandu?
December is one of the top 3 months to visit. The weather is dry (only 6mm of rain the entire month), temperatures are cool but manageable at 18°C daytime, and trekking routes at moderate altitudes remain accessible. The main drawback is air pollution, which can be severe on windless mornings due to winter temperature inversions trapping smog in the valley. If you can tolerate hazy mornings and cold guesthouse rooms, December offers excellent conditions overall.
What is the weather like in Kathmandu in December?
Expect daytime highs around 18.3°C (65°F) and overnight lows near 6.1°C (43°F). Rainfall is negligible at 6mm for the whole month, with maybe 1 rainy day total. Humidity sits around 73%. Mornings are often foggy in the valley floor until 9-10 AM. The sun feels warm in sheltered spots by midday, but shade is cold. Wind is generally light except on exposed ridges above the valley.
Is Kathmandu crowded in December?
December is high season. Thamel's guesthouses and trekking agencies are busy, Boudhanath and Swayambhunath see steady tourist traffic, and domestic flights book up quickly. That said, Kathmandu never reaches the oppressive crowding of, say, Barcelona or Venice in summer. You'll notice the volume most at popular viewpoints (Nagarkot at sunrise) and on the Everest scenic flights which sell out days ahead. Weekday mornings at heritage sites remain manageable.
Do I need to book hotels in advance for December in Kathmandu?
For Thamel specifically, yes. The better-reviewed mid-range places (NPR 3,000-6,000 per night) fill up 2-3 weeks ahead, especially around Christmas and New Year. Budget dorms are easier to find last-minute but quality drops fast. In Patan and Bhaktapur, where fewer tourists stay, availability is better. Book at least 1 week ahead for anything decent in the NPR 2,500+ range.
Can I still trek from Kathmandu in December?
Yes, for moderate-altitude routes. Day hikes like Shivapuri (2,732m), Champa Devi (2,278m), and the Nagarkot-Dhulikhel ridge are all in excellent condition with dry trails and clear views. Multi-day treks to Langtang (up to 3,800m) are possible but require proper cold-weather gear for sub-zero nights above 3,000m. The Everest Base Camp trek is still running but expect nighttime temperatures of -15°C or lower at Gorak Shep. The Annapurna Circuit's Thorong La pass (5,416m) may have snow making the crossing more demanding.
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